if you were from here you would want it too. Some people in places like the south, south west and california where vehicle bodys seem to last forever dont understand what rust free means to us. I can get the truck less the motor for $1K. I can buy 460's all day long here for $50-$200. A friend just bought a complete 429 DOVE motor for $100. The only reason I am considering paying $1k for the 460 is so I make sure I have all the correct a/c and cruise control parts. those are both rare here because of the mountains and cooler climate.

 

you seem to keep making the argument as to why it's a good deal, but asking if it is or not. Seems like you've already decided.

 

I live in LA LA Land and wouldn't pay a penny for it! If I lived in WV, I wouldn't pay a penny for it either as I know "the score." You appear to be unaware.

It's a cobbled up "basket case" Frankenstein Monster that cannot be test driven. It's going to cost you mega bucks to make it right!

I've been in this hobby over 50 years, have owned 337 vehicles. I can look at old rolling piles of misery, figure out what it will cost to fix them. I know when to "step up" or when to walk away.

btw: How does your friend know the D0VE engine is a 429 since the same block casting number was used for 460's?

Which one of the THREE different types of A/C does this truck have? Some of the Speed Control parts used on 1975/77 F100/350's are different than were used on 1978/79 F100/350's.

Some of these Speed Control parts were also used on 1970's Passenger Cars. Most of the tilt wheel parts will be found in 1971/78 Passenger Cars, 1979's except LTD/Grand Marquis.

 

Some people keep "score" differently Bill...

Just because something is currently not drivable doesn't make it worthless at all.

He may be very aware of his skill level & ability to take on a project.

Many of us here can do all sorts of fun things with projects & vehicles. Things other would never attempt or be able to do. Even buy a non running project vehicle & make it run

 

To me just ordering parts from a catalog isn't any fun or original. I have a '48 F1 that runs in the 1/4 in the low 12s. I didn't buy a mustang II kit, I removed a front crossmember and suspension from a '74 mustang. I cut the crossmember in half and widened it 3.5" and channeled it to fit my frame so I wouldn't have to modify the rails. Then I took an independant rear from a '98 jaguar and modified it for the ride and stance I wanted. I also made all the mounts, crossmembers and brackets to install a 390 and C6 in place of the flathead 6 and 3 speed that was in it. I design, fabricate for a living and I am certified through the American Welding Society in stick, mig and tig. I'm fairly certain that installing a 4wd under a 2wd would be a walk in the park. I already drew up the parts I need to fab the "Frankenstein" I have been thinking about. Since I never follow convention I'm thinking 4 link for rear AND front suspension with dual long travel coil overs. A vehicle is only limited by the owners skill and imagination, I happen to posess both. I was just looking for a little bit of input. Btw, nothing has been hacked from the truck, it can easily be put back together as a 2wd in fact it is all there with the exception of coils and shocks. Everything else is either on it or in the bed. AND my friend knows 385 series engines quite well, he has put 460s and 429s in his dent, fox body mustang, and is putting a 429 in his '51 F1 that his grandfather bought new. Fairly simple, just pull a plug and check the stroke or pull the pan an look at the numbers on the crank. Thank you for the support on the ingenuity chasetruck.

 

Finally - someone who gets it!!!!!!!

I've always been the "best part for the job" not the "what ford put there originally" (often NOT the best part for the job!) type.

Some people are just so limited to what came from the factory it's insane.


Oh - and be sure to post up the build when you get to the links. I wanted to 4 link the front of my crew but got lazy as I had too much other stuff to build on the thing.

 

The Economy does stink, there ain't no denying that, but around here (WV) these trucks have become rather uncommon, especially ones with minimal rust...No rust is unheard of around here. Like someone earlier said, NEW vehicles here have some level of rust after a couple of years...
Frankenstein monsters arn't all bad, if somebody swapped a D44 for a HPD60, then that could be considered a Frankenstein monster too, now couldn't it?
Because of the little or no rust...

The Cruise is more rare than the A/C IMO, but the A/C, complete is getting harder to find.


I agree that could cost alot to make it a correct 4x4
What's the matter, can't you fix one up good enough to keep?


[quote=choptop49ford;12193538]
I design, fabricate for a living and I am certified through the American Welding Society in stick, mig and tig. I'm fairly certain that installing a 4wd under a 2wd would be a walk in the park. I already drew up the parts I need to fab the "Frankenstein" I have been thinking about. Since I never follow convention I'm thinking 4 link for rear AND front suspension with dual long travel coil overs. A vehicle is only limited by the owners skill and imagination, I happen to posess both. I was just looking for a little bit of input. Btw, nothing has been hacked from the truck, it can easily be put back together as a 2wd in fact it is all there with the exception of coils and shocks. Everything else is either on it or in the bed. quote]


Yep, I agree that I perfer to find and fix what I can, but those magazines have there place too...


Now, I'll put my opinon out here...
How was the 4x4 conversion origionally done, there's a couple different ways to do it, but there's only one or maybe 2 that I consider right...
(I'll be refering it as cobbeled untill I hear back from you on this)
I agree that it would take alot of money to fix it right, and that it sounds to be a bit of a basket case...
I also don't think it worth $2000 even with all the trim, and options.
I would think around $800 on the Highend for everything, If you know you could sell parts off of it...
The only reason I say that much, is because of the "Rust Free" body, and trim
the front end having been cobbeled together twice makes me not want to go any higher than that, and If I were buying this truck, it would be for the body trim, and options alone... then I would hunt another frame, trans, and axles...
I think I would pass to be Honest

But If you think it's worth it, and you really don't want to wait to find another one, $1500 would probably buy it?
(Though that's quite abit more than I would pay considering the sketchy history of the truck...) (mainly the 4x4 conversion)

If you could get the guy to send some pictures, it may help me adjust what it would appear to be worth somewhat....
Especially of the area where the front axle has been changed... twice...

 

If the truck is worth it to YOU for two grand, then go for it. You can always offer the guy less. Offer 15 buy it for 17, unless he is firm on price. good luck to you..

 

Whatever happened? Did you buy it? Are you broke homeless and single since the frankenmonster ate all your money and burn't down your house and chased the family off with pitchforks! Goodness the suspense is killing me!

 

havent bought it yet. been holding out to make sure a fantastic deal doesnt jump out of the wood work the second I hand over the cash which is the way things usually go for me. looked at a '68 4wd yesterday. fairly nice body since i has been in storage for18 of the last 20 years, but the 2 years as a mud **** took a toll on it.

 

That my friend is one of the smartest things I have heard on these forums yet, If I had a personal Screenname I would quote that in my signature in a heartbeat.

I have some stuff coming up that is gonna make the purist guys have a heart attack, but that's the idea, it's all about what YOU want it to be not what some parts catalog says came on it.

Stay tuned and good luck with your purchase!

Mason