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i have a 1994 ford 300 inline six e4od. And when it sits there and idles it starts to over heat. The temp gage will get to the a in normal. Well i replaced what i thought was the sending unit in front of the motor around where the water pump is. But that wasnt it. THe truck will go it high idle and everthing. It was a brand new rad in it and thermo. Is this a common problem or do i need to look at getting the block flushed. By the was the truck has 231??? miles on it
i have a 1994 ford 300 inline six e4od. And when it sits there and idles it starts to over heat. The temp gage will get to the a in normal. Well i replaced what i thought was the sending unit in front of the motor around where the water pump is. But that wasnt it. THe truck will go it high idle and everthing. It was a brand new rad in it and thermo. Is this a common problem or do i need to look at getting the block flushed. By the was the truck has 231??? miles on it
(In bold) That item you replaced was the sending unit for the computer only, not the guage in the instrument cluster.
The one for the guage is located on the passenger side of the motor near the firewall.........PITA to get to and change (in my opinion).
does the temp go back down when moving? If it does then change the fan clutch. Fairly common for them to stop working after a while and not too hard to replace. Main symptoms of one failing are temp climbing when sitting still or going slow but sitting normal when going faster like on the highway(over about 40ish).
You are supposed to be able to check them by comparing the resistance to spining the fan by hand between with the engine cold and hot. Free spin cold to resistance when hot. Engine off, of course. But if the temp is acting like I described earlier, I would just change the clutch.
Is it pushing out coolant when it "overheats"? In my opinion, you don't have a heating problem if the coolant is staying in the engine.
Did you burp the air out of the system when you changed out those parts? If not, that's the first thing to do.
As far as i know the water pump on the truck is factory. And yes the temp goes back down when i'm going down the road. How much restince is supposed to in the fan cause it don't have much when i compare it to aonther vehcile
i have a 1994 ford 300 inline six e4od. And when it sits there and idles it starts to over heat. The temp gage will get to the a in normal. Well i replaced what i thought was the sending unit in front of the motor around where the water pump is. But that wasnt it. THe truck will go it high idle and everthing. It was a brand new rad in it and thermo. Is this a common problem or do i need to look at getting the block flushed. By the was the truck has 231??? miles on it
High idle indicates a vacuum leak.
A vacuum leak will cause a lean fuel mixture.
A lean fuel mixture will make an engine run hot(ter).
If the temp goes back down when moving then the fan clutch is the most likely problem. How much resistance it is supposed to have is difficult for me to put in to words, but you said it has less when compared to other ones you tried so which again sounds like its shot. Last check that I can think of is look at the front of the clutch for oily/waxy residue. dry dirt is to be expected but if it looks wet thats not a good sign.
i'm not as familiar with these newer trucks as i am with the old stuff...but with you having more than 230,000 miles...everything is likely worn out. i'd swap the fan clutch and the water pump.
I don't think a vacuum leak would cause a lean condition. All the IAC is, is a controlled vacuum leak. The ECM will add the fuel to keep the mixture correct if everything else is functioning properly.
The engine hasn't came on since its been doing this. But i'll have it check anyway. I'm going to try the fan first or get a electric fan, and see what that does when the funds allow me too. I've hadn't any problems out of the egr that i know of since i've own the truck. But like i said it only starts to idle fast when the temp gage goes up.
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