My truck has power down low more than enough (yeah... right) once I get above 2500 prm it still has power but not all that much, it doesnt fall on its face but I feel that there should be more but I never thought anything of it and kept to myself, I told my wife and she thought it was fine and I was wrong.
Well I ended up blowing my trans and had it rebuilt to a 4R100HD, the truck sat for about 3 months before I put it back in. I got it all back together went for a few mile ride got out checked for leaks and signs of anything that was wrong, it all checked out good. On the way back home I got on it hard with a friend of mine who helped me put the trans back in. It pulled like it normally did and then all of a sudden it was like I unloaded nitrous into the ol girl and WOW! My buddy said he has never been in a truck as big as mine that has pulled anything like that! It was 230 am by that time and I went home parked the truck and went to bed. (this was about a month ago or so)
The next day I couldnt get it to do it again and it still wont and power is still there but nothing like it was that once. It does not blow any white smoke, boost is still 24 or higher some times.
ICP pressure is a little high so Im going to replace the sensor.
Fuel pressure is unknown, I will be hooking up a gauge to find out what it is.
I checked my HPO awhile back and it was at 2400 psi at WOT in third gear
Reading another thread has taught me to try to blow the screens out of my tank and see what happens.
I will be doing this all on my next day off.... whenever that may be....

Is there anything that I may be over lookin? Fuel filter is clean, truck is in tip top shape as far as I can tell.

 

Have you checked the Exhaust Back pressure?

 

Hey johnny, think you should start with a new/rebuilt turbo...I got 1 for sale

Have nothing for ya bud, hope you get-ur "right".

 

Bigb56 the tube is clean and the sensor is not throwing any codes

Timmyboy..... I've got $100

 

Bump.........

 

Throw your AE on it and run WOT in stock and let us know what the ICP is. You'll find something interesting there. You've already gone through all the Oregon Injector stuff? Can you check your fuel pressure? I had air... lots-o-air in my fuel until the Hutch mod.

 

I don't have AE that was another brothers about an hour or so away from me who was nice enough to hook it up for me. Oregon injector stuff.... Huh? I'm waiting for a day off to check the fuel pressure looks like it might be another week or do until I can get to doing anything.

 

http://oregonfuelinjection.com/pdf/f...diagnostic.pdf

 

Next time you get to hook up to AE check exhaust back pressure actual PSI. I know you said the tube was clean and there were no codes but what about the valve sticking closed or part way closed? Of course you can check that by looking at the lever, can't remember the position for full open but it's on the web somewhere.

I also agree on the ICP. Maybe by the time the EBPV opens the oil has thinned enough to cause low ICP from worn parts.

 

Thank mike.

I installed a van turbo so the ebpv is deleted on my truck. I thought about changing that sensor too just to do it. The mechanical side of my truck I know and understand pretty well by now but the electrical side side is a pita and if it wasn't for FTE I would have been lost trying to track down my problem

I will be buying the icp sensor and te other Hpo line that I haven't replaced yet tomorrow from clay

 

For me, step one is always check that EBP, MAP, and BARO readings are the same before the engine is started. These three have to agree on what your altitude is, or things go sideways right quick. Luckily, you can check the voltage on the EBP sensor and the MAP sensor. I never tried the BARO without AE, but there may be a pinout on the PCM. If not, getting the EBP and MAP to show the accurate altitude is the point of the exercise anyway. I wouldn't buy anything until the voltages on those are checked with a meter.

Sorry about the reference to Oregon Injector without pointing out the link in my signature. I've been touting that link in my sig so long that I thought everybody clicked it already.

 

Well I replaced the icp sensor air filter and the Hpo line that I kept putting off and no difference

 

All those mods and NO HUTCH MOD or HARPOON MOD??? Get the air out and see if you get the crazy pull again? I ordered the kit from StrictlyDiesel.com
Dwayne

 

I'll be looking into that kit Really soon, their site is down. Would the throttle position sensor have anything to do with power, if it's going bad would it not give full power? Twice today when I fired the truck up the ses light came on and I had no go pedal for a few seconds.

What fuel line is it that I can blow air backward threw the system to clear out the screens in the tank, I think the screens maybe clogged. So before I drop the tank I want to be sure. I looked earlier and I seen 3 lines going to the fuel pump in the tank. Where do I disconnect it at to do this to? A pic would be great if anyone can help me out.

 

It could also be your TPS. I am not as knowing of the TPS/gas pedal as I am familar with the info for the tank mod.
Follow the fuel line on the suction side of your fuel pump back to the tank. This is the line that you blow air into to clear the screens. Just to clarify the location of the fuel pump...the fuel pump is on the frame rail just under the driver side. It is not in the tank.( your quote from above states "and I seen 3 lines going to the fuel pump in the tank.") If you remove the fuel line from the pump, it is a quick disconnect, you will need a fuel line disconnect tool. I purchased one from napa. The size is 3/8 inch. It looks like a small scissors. You can also purchase a full set from harbor freight for almost the same price as one tool from NAPA. When you remove the line from the suction side of the pump be aware that it might start to siphon your tank so be ready with the air and already have the gas cap off so the air has a large area pipe to escape from and you will be able to hear the bubbling much easier. This is only a temporary fix for the screen. It will not help to get rid of the air without the Hutch mod. I hope this helps. The larger of the two stainless pipes going into the tank is the suction line. The smaller one is the return line.
The screens are located inside of the white plastic housing in this picture on Guzzle's site http://www.guzzle7pt3.com/pics/hch/hch06a.jpg
Here is a picture of the quick disconnect you need to remove at the pump by pushing on the blue tab.
http://www.guzzle7pt3.com/pics/hch/hch31.jpg
I recommend tapping on it with a screwdriver to help remove the dirt/road grime that accumulates and prevents you from removing it. You can also spray some lubricant on the connection to aid in removal.
Here is the Link to Guzzle's entire hutch mod. Welcome to guzzle's In-tank Hutch Mod Web Page
He purchased everything himself so his aftermarket suction filter and mod will be different from the one on strictlydiesel.com but you now have pictures and I hope these links posted properly. Thanks Guzzle for your site.
Dwayne