DTC Code x9 .... Wont Start With Engine Warm
#1
DTC Code x9 .... Wont Start With Engine Warm
2005 F250 6.0 Turbo Diesel Crewcab SWB 2WD
This is the first diesel I have ever owned and the first real issue I have had with the motor. I have been dealing with a no start issue for almost 2 months where in the morning the truck starts up just fine, I will drive 20 miles to the office with no issues, park and shut the truck off.
With the truck turned off and engine in normal operating temperatures (usually 190-205F coolant temp) the motor will crank but will not re start. I have tried, and tried, cranked untill battery drained with no fire.
These DTC codes usually show up
P0611 (Unknown)
P0261 (Injector Circuit Low - Cylinder 1)
P0264 (Injector Circuit Low - Cylinder 2)
P0267 (Injector Circuit Low - Cylinder 3)
P0270 (Injector Circuit Low - Cylinder 4)
P0273 (Injector Circuit Low - Cylinder 5)
P0276 (Injector Circuit Low - Cylinder 6)
P0279 (Injector Circuit Low - Cylinder 7)
P0282 (Injector Circuit Low - Cylinder 8)
There are 3 other codes that show up occasionally (have had 12 simultaneous) Over the time I have discovered the motor will crank up normal once the truck temps have returned back to ambient room temperature. Usually by lunch the motor has cooled back down to 110 in Texas summer heat, sometimes it starts on its own, sometimes its still at 122F and no start. Oreillys Auto ether starting fluid has helped me get where im going for short stops. Im sure 2 months of spraying ether can not be good for the motor
To avoid having to pop hood, get out and spray to restart, I have to leave the truck running at every gas station / cigarette / taco bell / every stop I make that requires re starting the truck within some 4 hrs waiting for the motor to cool back down. That means every walmart trip / grocery store trip / movies / restaurant / bar / haircut, all have to get ether sprayed to restart
I was told the motor was replaced at 140k miles and this motor had 40k on it when i bought the truck. I have added 50k miles so possibility of 90k on motor with 195k showing on odometer.
The Edge computer programmer screen is still hooked up but apparently there is no chip in this replacement motor so no programmable features currently function, simply just a display of temps if that is true
I replaced both batteries (18 months ago, and had one of those replaced 3 months ago)
I had oil cooler/turbo cooler replaced-not sure of exact parts names but I heard this when I should have bought the EGR delete (15 months ago)
I had up pipe/flex pipe replaced (9 months ago)
I replaced Alternator (6 months ago)
Ask any question for more details and Please advise
This is the first diesel I have ever owned and the first real issue I have had with the motor. I have been dealing with a no start issue for almost 2 months where in the morning the truck starts up just fine, I will drive 20 miles to the office with no issues, park and shut the truck off.
With the truck turned off and engine in normal operating temperatures (usually 190-205F coolant temp) the motor will crank but will not re start. I have tried, and tried, cranked untill battery drained with no fire.
These DTC codes usually show up
P0611 (Unknown)
P0261 (Injector Circuit Low - Cylinder 1)
P0264 (Injector Circuit Low - Cylinder 2)
P0267 (Injector Circuit Low - Cylinder 3)
P0270 (Injector Circuit Low - Cylinder 4)
P0273 (Injector Circuit Low - Cylinder 5)
P0276 (Injector Circuit Low - Cylinder 6)
P0279 (Injector Circuit Low - Cylinder 7)
P0282 (Injector Circuit Low - Cylinder 8)
There are 3 other codes that show up occasionally (have had 12 simultaneous) Over the time I have discovered the motor will crank up normal once the truck temps have returned back to ambient room temperature. Usually by lunch the motor has cooled back down to 110 in Texas summer heat, sometimes it starts on its own, sometimes its still at 122F and no start. Oreillys Auto ether starting fluid has helped me get where im going for short stops. Im sure 2 months of spraying ether can not be good for the motor
To avoid having to pop hood, get out and spray to restart, I have to leave the truck running at every gas station / cigarette / taco bell / every stop I make that requires re starting the truck within some 4 hrs waiting for the motor to cool back down. That means every walmart trip / grocery store trip / movies / restaurant / bar / haircut, all have to get ether sprayed to restart
I was told the motor was replaced at 140k miles and this motor had 40k on it when i bought the truck. I have added 50k miles so possibility of 90k on motor with 195k showing on odometer.
The Edge computer programmer screen is still hooked up but apparently there is no chip in this replacement motor so no programmable features currently function, simply just a display of temps if that is true
I replaced both batteries (18 months ago, and had one of those replaced 3 months ago)
I had oil cooler/turbo cooler replaced-not sure of exact parts names but I heard this when I should have bought the EGR delete (15 months ago)
I had up pipe/flex pipe replaced (9 months ago)
I replaced Alternator (6 months ago)
Ask any question for more details and Please advise
#2
You need to replace the dummy plugs. While your in there you might as well replace the stand pipes. The dummy plugs (and stand pipes) just use a rubber O ring, that O ring gets shredded by the oil pressure and allows oil to bypass. When the oil is cold it doesn't flow around the Oring and builds the required pressure to start. When the oil is warm it flows around the O Rings and wont build the required amount of oil pressure.
The new "updated" ones have a bigger rubber Oring, and that Oring is backed with a plasticish backup ring.
This is where I would start. It took me about 8-9 hours, drinking beers and consulting Cheezit. Others will tell you STC fitting, and that very well could be the cause. But the Standpipes and Dummy plugs are easier to get at. If that wouldn't fix it, than go in for the STC fitting.
The new "updated" ones have a bigger rubber Oring, and that Oring is backed with a plasticish backup ring.
This is where I would start. It took me about 8-9 hours, drinking beers and consulting Cheezit. Others will tell you STC fitting, and that very well could be the cause. But the Standpipes and Dummy plugs are easier to get at. If that wouldn't fix it, than go in for the STC fitting.
#3
YOU Have a Couple Problems
A HPO Leak
And a BAD FICM (this is what all the Codes/DTC are About)
You can air test the HPO System to trouble shoot it Instead of changing Parts
But ALL Parts mentioned in above Post will need to be addressed at some point in time they all have High Fail Rate and Upgraded Parts will fix you HPO Problems
A HPO Leak
And a BAD FICM (this is what all the Codes/DTC are About)
You can air test the HPO System to trouble shoot it Instead of changing Parts
But ALL Parts mentioned in above Post will need to be addressed at some point in time they all have High Fail Rate and Upgraded Parts will fix you HPO Problems
#4
Looks like you had alot of charging system problems those will KILL FICM if not addressed ASAP Looks like they Killed the FICM
Send FICM to ED
FICM Repair.com - Your Source for FICM Repair
end up with a better part than New from Ford for alot less MoNEY
IF you keep spraying the moter with starting fluids you will need a new Engine SOON its HELL on the Pistons
Send FICM to ED
FICM Repair.com - Your Source for FICM Repair
end up with a better part than New from Ford for alot less MoNEY
IF you keep spraying the moter with starting fluids you will need a new Engine SOON its HELL on the Pistons
#5
#7
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