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Orange wrench

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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 06:11 AM
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Orange wrench

hello everyone I have a question I have an 2005 ford F250 6.0 (stock). The orange light came on I was on the highway doing 70 the truck did not lose power or anything when I complete the trip and shut the truck off I restarted the engine and it was off. I don't like dash lights on just wondering what would cause that the book said it is a "limp-home" operation "?" any and all information would be welcome
 
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 06:17 AM
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The most common causes for the wrench light are over-boost and oil cooler efficiency (ECT vs EOT), but can also be system voltage. You need a way to monitor these parameters.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 06:24 AM
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Boost was normal, I will check on the EOT vs ECT I will have to read and learn more on that
 
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 06:34 AM
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You need a Scangauge or similar way to monitor the EBDII computer port data to read the EOT and ECT numbers. The idea is that the oil cooler coolant passages clog, which restricts flow to the EGR cooler, which damages the EGR cooler. The temperature delta is the way to monitor the oil cooler efficiency which gets worse as the coolant passages clog creating high oil temps in comparison to the coolant temp. Your dash gauge is actually pretty good for showing accurate boost, so note if it goes over around 24 psi at any time, higher is over-boost often caused by seized up turbo vane adjuster ring. The Scangauge can also monitor a number of different system voltages.

Brian

Brian
 
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 07:06 AM
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Thanks MC5C I will check on a scanguage I got to keep her going I got right at 200k miles I love my truck and trying to stay on top of her that light don't come on in town only after I been on the high rolling 70 mph for 45 minutes
 
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 09:32 AM
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That is usually the time you will see the wrench light for delta spread is at highway speeds. Usually around town (unless your oil cooler is really bad) the oil and coolant temps go up and down and are not serious put to continuous heat as it is on the highway. when my cooler was getting bad it took just about 25-30 minutes for the oil to get past the 15 degrees difference. I replaced the cooler and now i see just about 4 degrees difference even on the longest haul.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 09:50 AM
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Thinks flordia I am will keep a close eye on my coolant level an change my erg cooler if I see a drop
 
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 10:11 AM
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I just went through this very same scenario. It was an oil cooler on my truck. Dealer quoted 1800 to change, had shop change it, did EGR delete, and flushed oil and coolant for 1640. Next trip, light came back on again, and now I believe the turbo is in need of work.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 10:25 AM
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I may flush the oil cooler see if that change anything but I hate that EGR cooler
 
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 10:59 AM
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Raptor, the oil cooler is the problem, not the EGR cooler. People usually change both, but it's the oil cooler that causes the issues. Flushing the oil cooler coolant section may keep you going for some time.

Brian
 
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Old Jun 30, 2019 | 06:33 AM
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Any other ideas?

I know this thread is old but been reading through it to see what else it might be. I have an '06 and the wrench comes on like described above... Highway speeds for about 30-45 minutes. I have replaced the oil cooler to a bulletproof one. And I have a brand new turbo as of a week ago. The problem is still happening. Any other reasons for this light. Maybe the temperature sensor? Thanks in advance for your ideas.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2019 | 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Doc_Livingston
I know this thread is old but been reading through it to see what else it might be. I have an '06 and the wrench comes on like described above... Highway speeds for about 30-45 minutes. I have replaced the oil cooler to a bulletproof one. And I have a brand new turbo as of a week ago. The problem is still happening. Any other reasons for this light. Maybe the temperature sensor? Thanks in advance for your ideas.
Do you have a monitor to check system PIDs? This is the first thing you need. The wrench could mean many different things. The ability to monitor different systems can help you figure out what the wrench is for as well as pull DTCs.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2019 | 07:45 AM
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+1 on a monitor because with the wrench, there should be a DTC, Download ForScan Lite to your phone and buy the required ELM327 OBDII device. Around $40 total. ForScan is a great code reader!

Battery voltage below 9.5V will cause delayed/hard starts. Below 8V (WSM) and it will not start. IIRC, you will get a wrench light.

FICM low voltage detection monitor - DTC P0560 stored and wrench warning lamp illuminated when PCM vehicle power (VPWR) parameter identifier (PIDS) is below 10.25V for 60 seconds or below 9V for 4 seconds.

Defuel at 28.6 psig boost (possibly also need to be at or above 75 mph also) DTC P0234 - Wrench light for 2005 - 2007 F-series engines (and 2008 - 2010 E series) TSB 09-24-3

DTC P012F stored and wrench warning lamp illuminated when the oil coolers efficiency drops below a specified threshold for a given speed and vehicle load condition - Wrench light
 
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Old Jun 30, 2019 | 08:22 AM
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Thanks for the input. I don't have a monitoring device but I do have a code reader. However, every time I turn the vehicle off, the wrench light resets and no codes are present. But I appreciate the input into some things to look at. I'll check with a shop I work with to see if they have the monitoring tool. But it's likely not something they can duplicate in a shop. It'll have to be hooked up and monitored over the course of a 45 minute road trip at highway speeds. Thanks again, guys!
 
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Old Jun 30, 2019 | 08:29 AM
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Lots of code readers do a very poor job of reading ALL the codes. ForScan Lite does a very good job of it, and it monitors the PCM PIDs (operating parameters). Download to phone, buy an ELM327 OBDII adapter - less than $40.
 
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