I've just bought a '05 F350 Crew 4x4 for my wife's daily driver. It has 95,000 miles on it and 2500 hours on the clock. It has a new EGR valve on it (among other shiny new parts under the hood) and although I don't know how clean it is inside that got me to thinking...

I have read all of the big EGR threads and haven't found an answer to my question that is-

"If I run my engine with the EGR disconnected (electrical plug) how long will it take to jam up/foul so that if, later, I wanted to run with it connected again it wouldn't function?"

Right now I don't have the CEL illuminated with the EGR unplugged so I'm willing to experiment with it to see if my operating temps are noticeably (by the factory gauge) lower.

What I'd really like to do is a coolant by-pass for the EGR. Burning coolant doesn't really excite me and I'd hate for to to begin leaking while my wife was on the highway somewhere...

 

Actually your temps are going to be higher, because with the EGR unplugged your cooling fan won't operate properly.

Also, the factory temp gauge isn't really a gauge, it's nothing more than a glorified "idiot light"...you can't tell any difference in temp until you're already overheating.

As far as your question goes I don't think there's a set answer for it, but I think most would agree that you're better off leaving the EGR plugged in.

 

Just to clarify something, you wouldn't see elevated temps under normal non towing circumstances would you? The fan only kicks in when the coolant gets hot(approx 218 plus) so under normal conditions you may be ok. I have also been recommended to do this by someone that is more knowledgeable of these trucks than I am so this has me curious as well.

 

I would be curious if the truck could possibly be tuned if it isn't popping a CEL with the EGR disconnected.

Did you run a scan to see if it has a tune? You can turn the EGR off with an SCT and many custom tunes already do that automatically, unless you specify otherwise.

I have mentioned in many other threads my distaste for modding or messing with a stock 6.0, but if it were me.... I would do a stealth EGR delete by blocking the exhaust entry and exit in the EGR cooler and use a tune to turn the EGR off. You eliminate a lot of possible problems that way and it still looks 100% stock from the outside.

Josh

 

I am down in LA visiting right now and it's been hot. I have the AC on at low speeds and don't reach more than 205.
The fan has been coming on and I am not loaded at all. It really depends on if you meet the requirements for the fan to run at increased
speed or not. Low speed and AC on can be one of the triggers. You can get a tune and turn the EGR to off.
Give Matt at Gearhead a call.

Sean

 

Ok, stupid question, but how do you know if your truck has a tune when you run a scan? Reason being when I picked up my "new-to-me" 05 and drove her home two weeks ago, I did find that the EGR plug had been disconnected the whole time, but there was no CEL. I do have access to a scan tool and it did throw a "low EGR voltage" code, which went away once I plugged it in (go figure right).....but why didnt it throw a CEL?

 

My understanding is that the fan clutch operates off of input from three (I think) different sensors. I could be wrong and don't recall but someone wrote someting on this just the other day. If I find it I will link it here.

 

I know there are multiple variables to set the fan off but I still thought it took a higher temp than 205 to do it. I have yet to have mine go off but I have read it sounds like a jet when it kicks up the rpms.

The highest temp I have seen is 210ect/217eot towing 6k at 60mph with AC blasting. Maybe the variable weren't the right one's to activate it, I also suppose it is possible my fan may not be working correctly. The truck is still new to me and I am learning every day thanks for the info guys.

 

"...how do you know if your truck has a tune when you run a scan? Reason being when I picked up my "new-to-me" 05 and drove her home two weeks ago, I did find that the EGR plug had been disconnected the whole time, but there was no CEL..."

dito... Who's to know if our used trucks had a tuner job... They look stock now but being unfamiliar with them we can't tell if they've been modded.

I think I'm going to get a tuner.

I'm asking for opinions, so fire away with your opinions-
What one is the cheapest/most versatile that can read codes, clear codes, alter a tune- as in more hp, better pulling, or economy (that's funny when talking about a 1ton... but what ever )

Here are some options and I don't know what ones actually change engine tunes:

Torque App with Ford Extended PIDS
Edge insight CTS
Scangauge 2
Bullydog Programmer

I like the small torque App but i don't think it retunes??

 

A Scangauge II isn't a tuner. It reads all the sensors your truck's computer does and gives you an accurate digital readout. It can also read/clear codes and has a trip monitor. I highly recommend getting one. It's the only way you'll be able to monitor what your engine is doing. As mentioned earlier, the OEM gauges are useless.

If you want a tuner call Matt at Gearhead Automotive Performance and get an SCT w/the three tune package. The SCT is not the cheapest, but it's not the most expensive either and it will do everything you want. If you ask around, you'll find Matt has a proven track record and his tunes are hard to beat.

Yes, all this stuff is expensive and it adds up. Welcome to the 6.0 Zone.

 

Oops, double post.

 

FWIW with my stock truck towing 6K lbs, AC on, ECT 210 and EOT 217 (which I see all the time in hilly ground, btw) the fan would absolutely have kicked to a higher speed (not the highest speed). Mine kicks on in those conditions around 206 - 208 and rapidly drops the ECT to around 200. I see a high delta until the oil temp catches up as it cools down a few degrees. Common behavior cresting a hill, I believe. My normal running flat unloaded delta is 6 - 8.

Brian

 

Why is it that everyone wants to buy things on the cheap? These trucks cost a small fortune to repair if you really cause some damage, which ironically some of the cheaper tuners will do.

Shift on the fly tuners (ones like Bully Dog) or in line modules (Edge Juice, or Bully Dog's Dyno Dominator) do not play well with our trucks. As was already mentioned, you really want to do custom tunes. Plus if you are thinking about disabling the EGR electronically then that limits you to custom tunes anyway.

Tuners aren't the best to be used for pulling codes. I would use AutoEnginuity with the Ford License. That allows you to pull codes from all 9 of our truck's modules and do other diagnostic work if you like to work on your own trucks. Just for code reading itself, it has paid for itself as my dealership charges $120 a pop for code readings.

If you are also planing on running a tuner, I would get gauges that are more substantial then the SGII as it does not monitor EGTs and Fuel PSI, 2 gauges that should be there even if you aren't tuned as both can help diagnose issues before they spiral out of control (price wise especially).

I would make sure though that your truck doesn't have a tune installed on it already. There could be a "U" code stored in the computer, that's usually indicative of a pre-fabbed tuner (BullyDog, Edge etc) having at least one time been on there. Best way to make sure would be to have a Ford dealership upload and that would make sure that it's back to stock. You don't have to, but if you are that worried about if there is a tune on your truck, then that's something worth considering.

 

While I'm asking about tuners and code readers, what about OBDCOM Diagnostic Systems for ALL vehicles?

Does anyone use this on their 6.0?

 

Does it get real loud at those temps? May have to get mine tested..

I would avoid letting ford put the new software update on your truck to make sure it's stock, they did it to mine and it blows. Turbo lag and very crappy fuel mileage I will be changing it soon.