Replacing spring(s), suggestions?
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Utah
Replacing spring(s), suggestions?
Hi There. I've got a drivers side spring with a leaf that broke in half, on my 96 B2300 4Cyl. It's the center leaf. From the rust, it looks like it had been cracked for some time, and finally wiggled it's way out.
I'm looking for suggestions or lessons learned.
My plan is to remove the springs on both sides, and replace with whatever the local parts store suggests. I also plan on replacing the bushings that come off in the process, as mine are old, cracked and flattened.
I poked around in there last night, and the shocks look pretty bad too. That is, the actual shaft look ok...clean, and with plenty of play. But 3 inches of the thin housing came off in my hand.
I don't haul things very often with my little truck, but occasionally I load it to the max. Shingles, dirt, 3 wheelers, junk for the dump, etc. Should I go with the standard springs? Or is there something more robust I should get? This will be my first time messing with suspension.
Any ideas anyone wants to pass along?
I'm looking for suggestions or lessons learned.
My plan is to remove the springs on both sides, and replace with whatever the local parts store suggests. I also plan on replacing the bushings that come off in the process, as mine are old, cracked and flattened.
I poked around in there last night, and the shocks look pretty bad too. That is, the actual shaft look ok...clean, and with plenty of play. But 3 inches of the thin housing came off in my hand.
I don't haul things very often with my little truck, but occasionally I load it to the max. Shingles, dirt, 3 wheelers, junk for the dump, etc. Should I go with the standard springs? Or is there something more robust I should get? This will be my first time messing with suspension.
Any ideas anyone wants to pass along?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,979
Likes: 2
From: central ohio
the spring hangers may need to be replaced also, im just changing out my springs as well, if your using it, you may as well upgrade to heaveir springs, but it will have a more harsh ride when empty, i just went with some junkyard springs myself, i have coil helpers mounted to the axle and once i get above 400# in the bed its riding on the coils. be prepared for alot of work, maybe you'll be lucky, but my bolts were seized into the bushings, had to torch them off. now im having a difficult time locally finding the 9/16 x 4-1/2 bolts i need. i can order them & have them in 2 days, but really wanted to have the truck back on the road tommarrow. its defintly more of a job than i thought it would be, and i had had everything apart 4 years ago when i put in new spring hangers, bushings & bolts. i did use anti-seize and am surprized i had to use a torch to get things apart. my drivers side had no arch left in it, and since its best to replace spring sets in pairs, i found a newer truck at a junkyard to source springs from. if your getting brand new springs, they may come with bushings installed.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,533
Likes: 1
From: Dexter, MI
I agree with "racsan" on the salvage yard source for springs. For the hardware, LMC Truck is a good source for shackle bolts , bushings and such. Some of the FTE sponsors are other possible parts sources as well.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 819
Likes: 2
From: Northern Maine
As long as your spring hangers and shackles are OK, I would not touch the main leaf. By leaving it in place and just replacing the broken leaf, the job will go much easier and quicker. If it was me, I wouldn't bother with the other side either. You will need a new center bolt and, quite possibly new U-bolts. My truck (98 Ranger) needs both rear frame hangers and shackles as they are badly rusted.
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 56
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From: Utah
As long as your spring hangers and shackles are OK, I would not touch the main leaf. By leaving it in place and just replacing the broken leaf, the job will go much easier and quicker. If it was me, I wouldn't bother with the other side either. You will need a new center bolt and, quite possibly new U-bolts. My truck (98 Ranger) needs both rear frame hangers and shackles as they are badly rusted.
I'll have to get under there and have a look at the shackles and hangers. I'll post some photos, if I can get a good shot.
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Utah
Thanks, I'll look at the sponsors links for parts. I'm really in no hurry, so waiting for parts to be shipped should not be a problem.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 819
Likes: 2
From: Northern Maine
No, I mean removing the U-bolts and center bolt,(you will have to cut the center bolt. You cant re-use them) and leave the main leaf in place. It can be quite a big job to get the main leaf out. If your hangers and shackles are not rusted (like mine are) it would not be a big job at all to replace your broken leaf. Just measure the length, width and thickness of the broken leaf along with the distance from the center bolt hole to the end of the leaf and go bujy one leaf and a new center bolt. You will need to support the truck from the frame and then put a jack under the differential to support that as well when you remove the U-bolts.
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Junior User
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From: Utah
Ok, parts arrived and sat in the garage for the requisite 4 weeks...so I'm ready for this task. I have new springs, shocks and a set of bushings.
My U-bolts and shocks came off without issue. I'm trying to remove the bolt holding the shackle assembly on, so I can lower the spring. The bolt is being VERY stubborn. Both sides. My impact wrench won't budge it. I've soaked it in penetrating oil for a few times today. I also tried heating it up with a torch with no luck.
The other end is behind the welded on shackle mount, and it looks like it threads through that part, so cutting it doesn't seem like a great idea.
I can unbolt the spring, but the bold won't slide out because of the frame.
Any ideas on removing that dude?
My U-bolts and shocks came off without issue. I'm trying to remove the bolt holding the shackle assembly on, so I can lower the spring. The bolt is being VERY stubborn. Both sides. My impact wrench won't budge it. I've soaked it in penetrating oil for a few times today. I also tried heating it up with a torch with no luck.
The other end is behind the welded on shackle mount, and it looks like it threads through that part, so cutting it doesn't seem like a great idea.
I can unbolt the spring, but the bold won't slide out because of the frame.
Any ideas on removing that dude?
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Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Utah
I've been heating and cooling the bolt, and spraying more PB on there. One side of one bolt is loose... Just have to not break that one. I'll keep at it.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 819
Likes: 2
From: Northern Maine
My rear spring shackles rusted to the point that my truck wouldn't pass state inspection so I ended up replacing them. They are riveted to the frame and the replacements are bolted on. I had no issues cutting the rivets with an air cut off tool and then driving them out. I then used a ball joint press to push the bushing bolt out. (one side came apart, the other had to be cut with a torch) The replacement shackles came with new bolts. The front shackles would be a little harder, especially when working around the gas tank.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Utah
My rear spring shackles rusted to the point that my truck wouldn't pass state inspection so I ended up replacing them. They are riveted to the frame and the replacements are bolted on. I had no issues cutting the rivets with an air cut off tool and then driving them out. I then used a ball joint press to push the bushing bolt out. (one side came apart, the other had to be cut with a torch) The replacement shackles came with new bolts. The front shackles would be a little harder, especially when working around the gas tank.
. I just re read this. I had not noticed that you said the replacements are bolted on. Good to have a backup plan. I'll try again tonight with some more heating etc. Bought a shorter impact socket that might give me some better pull leverage. I have a good cutoff tool...in case it comes to that.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,979
Likes: 2
From: central ohio
if you need to do the front brackets, esp the left side (gas tank) pull the bed! pull the bed anyways, it makes life so much easier! that l.f. bracket though, its either pull the bed or drop the tank!
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Junior User
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From: Utah
I finally got the first nut off, but of course the bolt was seized. Discouraged, I took it down to the pros, and they cut all 4 bolts (sawzall) and installed the springs. Gotta know when to fold 'em, right?
I didn't need the new shackle/hanger kits, so I can return those. I also did not need the bushing kit, I guess they were built-in on the springs. Probably won't return those as they were shipped.
They had a bit of a hard time finding the right bolts/nuts, but did in the end.
No more rattling or sagging. Springs lasted 180k. Not bad.
I didn't need the new shackle/hanger kits, so I can return those. I also did not need the bushing kit, I guess they were built-in on the springs. Probably won't return those as they were shipped.
They had a bit of a hard time finding the right bolts/nuts, but did in the end.
No more rattling or sagging. Springs lasted 180k. Not bad.
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