Low charging state WHY
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Low charging state WHY
New problem this week, need some help please. 2005 f250 4x4 6.0 with 200600 miles. Very hard start multimeter to batteries 11.4 and 10 3. put on charger full charge recheck after 150 mile drive back down. replaced both with AZ gold bats (both showed bad with test.) Had them check with their meter and alternator putting out only 12.7 at best. Replaced with 140a from AZ. It also only showed max output running of 13.3 but read here it was still enough. Then jumped into limp mode, dim lights barely made to sisters house. next day replaced with another alternator from AZ but I had him test it before I left it was putting out 14.8 to 16.1. Put in truck only getting 12,7 with multimeter and my AE shows 12.5 - 12.8.
All grounds/ conections good. By the way checked FICM and it never dropped below 48.1 at any point in the test. In AE it never shows FICM power above 46????
Thanks for any help.
All grounds/ conections good. By the way checked FICM and it never dropped below 48.1 at any point in the test. In AE it never shows FICM power above 46????
Thanks for any help.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: AB,Can
Something similar to this was posted awhile back and I believe the fellow found that the positive lead cable running from the passenger side battery to the drivers side battery was the problem. That is assuming you have ruled out a short, bad alternator, bad batteries and/or a bad ground connection.
To me it sounds like the parts store you are buying from sucks (AZ?). If you just bought 2 new batteries from there and drove 150 miles.... retested them and they were bad, then I would not be buying batteries from them. Same goes for the alternator.... 2 different alternators and both are supposed to be same power output but each show different charging voltages?
My factory 110 amp alternator was working fine and I had no problems at all with codes, CEL's or whatever and it charged at around 13.2 +/- a few volts. However with my new DC Power alternator that sucker stays up around 14.7 +/- a few volts.
I was also replacing batteries every 2 to 3 years.... so I upgraded to Optima batteries and that is also one of the reasons I upgraded my alternator as well.
To me it sounds like the parts store you are buying from sucks (AZ?). If you just bought 2 new batteries from there and drove 150 miles.... retested them and they were bad, then I would not be buying batteries from them. Same goes for the alternator.... 2 different alternators and both are supposed to be same power output but each show different charging voltages?
My factory 110 amp alternator was working fine and I had no problems at all with codes, CEL's or whatever and it charged at around 13.2 +/- a few volts. However with my new DC Power alternator that sucker stays up around 14.7 +/- a few volts.
I was also replacing batteries every 2 to 3 years.... so I upgraded to Optima batteries and that is also one of the reasons I upgraded my alternator as well.
Posting Guru
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I believe - but am not sure - that the alternator in the F250 does not have a conventional voltage regulator but is commanded to run a certain voltages by the computer. That might be worth checking out, but double up on the check the cables and grounds...
Brian
Brian
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Thanks for responses, all three are great. Berick, I think you have something here . I am getting 13.46 at the alternator, 13.06 on drivers bat and 12.56 on pass bat. Back to all the connections esp battery interconnect. I'll update tomorrow after I get into it.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Millersville, MD
Read that someone found very corroded + battery cable that goes between the two batteries. Ya can't tell by just looking at it.....ya gotta strip some of the insulation off....by then ya gotta replace it anyway!
Actually - disconnect from both batteries.... stick ohmmeter on each end....wiggle cable...if needle ( or digits) jump around, replace it.
Actually - disconnect from both batteries.... stick ohmmeter on each end....wiggle cable...if needle ( or digits) jump around, replace it.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: AB,Can
I would try replacing that "positive" battery to battery cable first bud (if you are absolutely sure it isn't a ground cable issue)..... a $20 cable would sure be a sweet fix compared to batteries and alternator!
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Junior User
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Yeah it sure would, to bad the money is spent. But the batts have had a hard 4 years 110+ days then back to the coast and 68 degrees every week
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: AB,Can
Here's that other thread about that positive to positive lead I mentioned earlier.... might help you out here with your problem.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-on-6-0-a.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-on-6-0-a.html
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Junior User
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Here's that other thread about that positive to positive lead I mentioned earlier.... might help you out here with your problem.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-on-6-0-a.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-on-6-0-a.html
Posting Guru
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The fact that the batteries show different voltages absolutely guarantees that you have cable problems. They are in parallel, and will force themselves to be the same voltage - whichever is stronger wins. That is why you need to do load and float tests with the batteries disconnected when looking for a problem battery.
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After all this good info I couldn't agree more. After reading the other thread I seem to have the exact situation only on opposite sides. I will post my findings after tomorrow am . Thanks to all in advance.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: AB,Can
You're welcome...... don't rule out that alternator as the problem child just because it's new. There are guys on this site buying alternators from O'reilly's brand new and taking them back cuz they are no good. Only way to tell for sure is test everything. Or buy a DC Power 270XP! 