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Have a 2004 F250 sd 4 whl drive. Had the abs light come on but was not surprised as I could feel a front wheel bearing going bad. Rebuilt front end, brakes and rotors ok just bearings, L & R , axle u-joints, new front locking hubs. Drives great but abs light still on. The code that was showing was for rear abs. Pulled sensor,looked ok ,test with ohm meter,showed some resistance but put a new one in anyway. THE LIGHT IS STILL ON. Gave in and took to dealer, after a 2 days, they said it is showing a intermittant rear abs code,maybe in wiring.
Took truck home .
I was hoping some one maybe has had this issue and offer a place to start looking.
Is there a way to look at a wiring diagram for this truck on line. I have access to a complete ford shop manual but it is for a 2005, will this work.
Thanks in advance everyone that works with this forum gets a big ATTABOY
You replaced the ABS Sensor that's located on top of your rear differential and no difference? And no other lights are on? Your O/D isn't flashing? And did you say you already looked at the ABS box located up front (like a $600 part)? Sorry, just some clarification so I can proceed with diagnosing!
Oh and an 04' and 05' should be the same as far as I know
Last edited by 99stackstroker; Aug 15, 2012 at 09:16 AM.
Reason: Answering further question
Everything is working ok.
You can hear the abs box cycle when you turn the key on. Abs light goes of for a second after key is turned on, then you hear the abs cycle and then light goes on.
Thanks
A lot changed in the Superduty for 2005, so don't believe everything in that manual is the same as yours.
You need to pull the connector from the rear ABS sensor, hook up a digital volt meter set to AC volts to it, and rotate the differential - either by turning the driveshaft or the wheels. You need to spin it up pretty fast - I've done this with the fronts, but not the rear, and I'm not sure you can spin it fast enough to get a reading, but you should be able to. The reading should be near or above .2 volts. A good reading would be .2-.3 volts.
It's possible there is enough metal shavings on the tone ring on the rear diff that the sensor can't "see" the thing spinning.
Or, it's just wiring. Check the connector itself right at the sensor for corrosion, and start working your way upstream.
Since it's intermittent, it's most likely wiring, or that tone ring being dirty with metal. Check the magnet on the filler plug for the rear diff for a lot of metal.