my drivers side rear spring needs replacing, ive found my local 'yard sells leaf spring sets for $40/set. im thinking i should go ahead & change out both sides, what with the differance in leaf-counts & gvwr ratings, unless i would find another 5040 gvwr ranger, just buying one spring pack would have things terribly unbalanced. id rather buy new, but new im looking at 100-140 per spring pack. the good news is that my spring hangers are only 2-3 years old, the springs on my truck now i put new bushings in when i did the hangers, but i seriously doubt i would be able to press them out to re-use. is my thinking correct that i should only replace leaf packs in pairs, or would i just be wasting time & effort with the side that is still good?

 

You are correct in thinking to replace the spring packs in pairs. That way you know what you have for capacity and condition. If you get the used set have them make sure they are both off of the same truck, for having the same capacity. If you have the right size adapter or driver, you can remove your newer bushings from your springs and put them into the replacements. Provided that the outer coller doesn't get too beat up in the process.

 

well, ive got the "new" springs on, was a tougher job than i thought it would be, i had my bushings changed out 3 years back when i replaced the spring hangers, and i used anti-seize, but only 1 bolt would come out, had to torch the others. then i couldnt locally source 9/16 bolts! ended up fining some 14mm ones, just a touch smaller. and while my original spring were indeed damaged, esp the drivers side, i do have a bent frame, i still had to leave out the right side rear 2-1/2" block or that side would be 3" higher at the wheelwell. i can also see where the drivers side pack rides on the helper leaf (these are 3-leaf packs, with the 3rd being a helper/overload leaf, factory issue) and the passenger side isnt using the 3rd leaf at all. plus going around right turns the right tire slips easily, it wont if you try when making a left. and wet pavement? its like driving on ice, im considering a locker as i doubt the frame twist can be corrected, i cant see it, but i know it must be based on all ive observed. and yes, i did switch the sides of my used springs and put the former left side on my right & vice versa. used all new bushings, not really any option, the torch is your best freind here! good thing its a 4wd or winter driving might be impossible. i might still have to retire it from road usage depending on how it does do this winter. my body panels line up and everything, what initially happened was it went through a deep (but not very wide) ditch at a angle at about 40 mph (guessing on the speed) hit l.f. corner first, bent the drivers side axle beam so bad the front diff leaked afterwards. (yes, pay for drivers ed! it does pay for itself...grrr!) needless to say, i havent had my daughter behind the wheel again, it seems to want to pull to the left when accelerating and to the right when braking. i can deal with that, but a new driver, not such a good idea. only other vehicle is a '97 blazer with almost 200K miles and a sloppy steering box, may find a $500 neon or something for her. i am glad that i didnt order heavy-duty new springs for $140 per side, chances are if i take this ranger out of service i'll get another and use the old one for parts, dont think i want to get into swapping everything over onto a "new" frame.

 

Glad to hear that you got through it ok even if it was a bit of work. Are the "new" springs used? If so did you check them out real good for cracks? Sounds like the side riding on the helper may be a a bit weak. Sorry about the bent frame findings. Did you ever get a 4 wheel alignment after that?

 

yes, the "new" springs are a used junkyard set, off a '97, had no cracks & i cleaned them up good. did my own front-end alignment, havent took it to a shop. ive been followed down the road and been told it doesnt dogtrack (or crabwalk, whatever term you prefer that means the rear axle aint inline with the front)