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1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis Econolines. E150, E250, E350, E450 and E550

E150 leaf springs

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Old Aug 11, 2012 | 08:39 PM
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E150 leaf springs

Why does my 95 E150 oem springs only have 3 leaves? I'm replacing them and didn't notice until I went to tighten the U bolts that the new ones have 4 leaves. I didn't buy an upgrade.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2012 | 09:17 PM
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its possible that a previous owner removed one leaf to produce a softer ride?
or maybe ford had an option for a light-duty or heavy-duty e150 - i know thats the case on the 250s - not sure if that was an option on a 150.
whatever the reason, if everything lines up, they'll work. then you get to judge if its the right stiffness. that depends on how heavy you load it, and how you expect it to feel. at the end of the day, if it feels about right, you're good to go. if it feels way too stiff, you might want to pull one of the leaves out of the stack and play with it on 3.
personally, i like the heavy duty springs that ford is known for, as opposed to the super-soft ride of a chevy. i'm prone to overload things, so heavy springs are a good thing.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2012 | 09:43 PM
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As far as I know light duty was 4 leaves and heavy duty was 5 leaves. I was shocked when I saw only 3. I've had the van since 99 find it unlikely the first owner would remove a leaf.

I may have to adjust my roadmaster active suspension.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2012 | 08:05 AM
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My '93 only has two, both full length. I just threw in a set of the cheap overload coils to help a little.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2012 | 09:00 AM
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I just noticed while doing research that I bought the correct front springs a listing for the 93 2 leaf springs. Not sure if this is a clue that one of the leaves was removed but my rear bolts that connected to the shackles were inserted opposite of the others. The bolt head was towards the inside not outside like all the others.

Not sure if they are supposed to be that way, I just put them back them same way. At that point I didn't care since I had to cut all but one bolt they were all seized inside the bushings.

But it did take care of the horrible squeaking/creaking I had.

Now on to the front springs and radius bushings.....and pay for yet another alignment.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2012 | 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by avenge
Now on to the front springs and radius bushings.....and pay for yet another alignment.
may as well do the axle pivot bushings at the same time. i didn't think about then when i changed my radius arm bushings, and only recently noticed they were gone. they're not hard at all if you use a c-frame ball joint press to force them in and out of the axle beams.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2012 | 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by joshofalltrades
may as well do the axle pivot bushings at the same time. i didn't think about then when i changed my radius arm bushings, and only recently noticed they were gone. they're not hard at all if you use a c-frame ball joint press to force them in and out of the axle beams.
Ya I probably should have but got it all done just need to adjust the camber and toe close enough to drive until the springs settle a bit. According to the haynes manual the lower spring retainer has to be loosened, there was no budging that bolt. I managed to get them out without loosening the bolt.

The front springs are also different new ones are variable rate old ones are constant rate. With the axle hanging free the driver's side was hitting my sway bar. WTF
 
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