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Old Aug 14, 2012 | 02:16 PM
  #31  
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gfw1985
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From: Raphine, Virginia
Light not flashing on neg post, plus points gap verified, leads me to believe condensor could be your problem.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2012 | 02:17 PM
  #32  
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Are you a screw dropper er Arctic...LOL...magnetic screwdrivers a good thing to have...anyways,

if the truck ran prior to this endeavor I would do the coil...but that lil short wire within the distributor has been known to fail and cause havoc as arctic mentioned...Yes truck ran prior and when it would not start this time, first thing we checked to see if there was any spark. At first we got spark from old coil so we moved on to distributor where points looked bad. Decided to replace points, rotor, condenser and cap just to make sure everything was new. Could not start truck and we decided to check for spark from old coil and could not get any at this point. This is when I said "screw it" and bought new coil thinking this would fix the problem.
When I get home I will check some of these other things that you guys talked about and see what I come up with.
Thanks
 
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Old Aug 14, 2012 | 02:21 PM
  #33  
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Light not flashing on neg post, plus points gap verified, leads me to believe condensor could be your problem.
I will try the neg. side of coil while cranking engine when I get home. The first time we just had the ignition in the on position when testing the neg. side of coil and no blinking.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2012 | 03:41 PM
  #34  
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Ballast Resistor

Anyone know where to buy these ballast resistors (white rectangular ceramic block)?
Advanced Auto does not sell them here.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2012 | 03:49 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by robbobvila
Anyone know where to buy these ballast resistors (white rectangular ceramic block)?
Advanced Auto does not sell them here.

Just found another thread on this site and went to Accel. Now I just need to find out which ohms I have.
http://prestoliteperformance.com/cat...last+Resistor+
 
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Old Aug 14, 2012 | 05:43 PM
  #36  
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arctic y block
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Originally Posted by robbobvila
Just found another thread on this site and went to Accel. Now I just need to find out which ohms I have.
Search results for: 'Ballast Resistor'
So now yer going to put in an electronic ign? Cool
 
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Old Aug 14, 2012 | 08:04 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by arctic y block
So now yer going to put in an electronic ign? Cool
Huh? I was just trying to replace my resistor. 150150 & 150250 look just like the one in my truck but not sure which ohms.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2012 | 08:15 PM
  #38  
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Thanks guys!!!

Took off resistor to take a look at the back and it looked ok. Not really sure what I was looking for besides some burnt marks. Went under hood and greased points. Tried the screw driver test and I got a tingle in my hand and got some sparks. What? sparks? OMG
Put dist. cap back on and tested for spark at coil. More sparks? Holy $&*!
Connected plug back to coil and went inside truck and gave her 3 pums of gas. turned the key and she started right up.

THANKS SO MUCH GUYS!

The resistor does not have a back to it and is mounted to the metal plate behind the dash. I'm wondering if somehow it was shorting out on the metal plate that it is mounted to. Looking closer at the resistor, The ceramic is cracked and looks like previous owner glued it back together. I put some cardboard wrapped with electrical tape behind the resistor for a temporary fix to keep it away from metal plate until I can order a new one. Does anyone know what ohms these trucks use? I can't find any writng on mine.

Looking back I think I bought these new parts when it might have been the resistor the whole time. Oh well as long as she's running. She's actually running better now.

Thanks again guys for all your help.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2012 | 08:36 PM
  #39  
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camperspecial65
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originally these trucks DID NOT have a ballast resistor...the white ceramic block...a PO installed it so the wiring could have been screwed up possibly...


- cs65
 
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 06:31 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by camperspecial65
originally these trucks DID NOT have a ballast resistor...the white ceramic block...a PO installed it so the wiring could have been screwed up possibly...


- cs65
Can I bypass this resistor and just connect the two wires together? Since it's cracked in the ceramic housing anyway.

Thanks again for your help
 
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 07:04 AM
  #41  
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gfw1985
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From: Raphine, Virginia
The resistor should be 1.1-1.4 ohms "if" being used. Purpose is to drop voltage to the stock coil so it doesn't overheat. If an aftermarket coil, made to run on full battery voltage is used, neither resistor or resistor wire is needed. Your issue is if the original resistor wire is in place. If needed, a ballast resistor can be found at Tractor Supply, or NAPA. Take your ohmeter with you when shopping as they may not be marked, and not a stock factory item, so no looking it up on the computer. Good luck.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 10:25 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by gfw1985
The resistor should be 1.1-1.4 ohms "if" being used. Purpose is to drop voltage to the stock coil so it doesn't overheat. If an aftermarket coil, made to run on full battery voltage is used, neither resistor or resistor wire is needed. Your issue is if the original resistor wire is in place. If needed, a ballast resistor can be found at Tractor Supply, or NAPA. Take your ohmeter with you when shopping as they may not be marked, and not a stock factory item, so no looking it up on the computer. Good luck.
Thanks for the info.

Is the coil that I bought from Advance Auto an aftermarket coil? I'm thinking it might be stock since it's an exact fit and being sold with other stock coils.
BWDPart Ignition Coil Part No. E70Z

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_ignition-coil-bwd_5240239-p?searchTerm=coil#fragment-1
 
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 10:39 AM
  #43  
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gfw1985
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That should be the proper stock coil for use with resistor wire or ballast resistor.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 01:04 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by gfw1985
That should be the proper stock coil for use with resistor wire or ballast resistor.
Thanks again to you and the other guys for your time and effort.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 01:54 PM
  #45  
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Are both wires on the solenoid. Almost sounds like the run wire isn't hooked up.
 
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