No Spark
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2011
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Did not grease the cam lobe but will. Any ideas of what type of grease?
My neighbor used his gauge and he set it at 35mm I think. I just remember the number 35. Sounds like the adjustment is off. I will have him come back over with his gauge and set to 17 thousands. This all seems to be further down the line from the iginition coil. The ignition coil is what was not producing spark but maybe this will fix it. I'll give it a try tomorrow evening and check back.
Thanks
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 14,325
Likes: 14
From: Island Southeast Alaska
If the points are not working than the test light at the coil negative won't flash. The points is what makes that happen. Set the points and fire it up. The new points should have came with a little capsule of lube. I have used any kind of grease. Even Vaseline. Engine pre lube is what I use when I don't have the grease that came with the points or I am lubing them at tune up time. Mostly the lube is to brake in the place where the points ride on the cam. Once broke in it is not needed so much. But is needed first off. Hope that all makes sense. If ya was here where I am ya would understand why I said that last part. 
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Additional info
I do notice that when I put the key to the on position that the gauge lights don't come on like they use to. Matter of fact, they have not come on since I've had this problem. I'm now wondering if it does have something to do with the ignition switch. Just to be safe I think I will change it out tomorrow evening.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 14,325
Likes: 14
From: Island Southeast Alaska
You have power to the plus side of the coil right. With the ignition on? If so than the switch is working. And does it have power there also when the engine is cranking? A test light on the plus side of the coil and crank the engine. It should stay on. Do you get any sparks when you stick a screw driver in the points and it touches ground? If so maybe try and sand or file the points as they now may be burnt a little and not letting power thru them.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2000
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From: colbert washington
I guess Im kind of late to this party but Im going to ask a question that I didnt see asked anywhere yet. Was this truck running prior to your having this problem? And if it was did it just quit all together or did you have any prior problems leading up to the no start problem. You did mention that you dont see any dash lights. Were they bright before this problem. Have you removed any grounds or ground wires from block to firewall and or any ground wires anywhere. Is the lead from the coil to the distributor inside the dist still intack. Ive had those break before and killed the motor. Anyway fill us in a little on how it was running prior to the no spark condition.
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You have power to the plus side of the coil right. With the ignition on? Yes
If so than the switch is working.
And does it have power there also when the engine is cranking? I never tried cranking it on the plus side only the neg. side. But I will try it tonight.
A test light on the plus side of the coil and crank the engine. It should stay on.
Do you get any sparks when you stick a screw driver in the points and it touches ground? Can you be more descriptive of what you want me to do here. Actually use a screwdriver to see if I can get the point in the distributor cap to short or creat spark when grounding it to metal? Does the ignition need to be in the on position or truck cranking?
If so maybe try and sand or file the points as they now may be burnt a little and not letting power thru them
If so than the switch is working.
And does it have power there also when the engine is cranking? I never tried cranking it on the plus side only the neg. side. But I will try it tonight.
A test light on the plus side of the coil and crank the engine. It should stay on.
Do you get any sparks when you stick a screw driver in the points and it touches ground? Can you be more descriptive of what you want me to do here. Actually use a screwdriver to see if I can get the point in the distributor cap to short or creat spark when grounding it to metal? Does the ignition need to be in the on position or truck cranking?
If so maybe try and sand or file the points as they now may be burnt a little and not letting power thru them
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I guess Im kind of late to this party but Im going to ask a question that I didnt see asked anywhere yet. Was this truck running prior to your having this problem? Yes, I had it running about 3 weeks ago and I use stabil fuel stabilizer
And if it was did it just quit all together or did you have any prior problems leading up to the no start problem. Just would not start a couple days ago after running about 3 weeks ago.
You did mention that you dont see any dash lights. Were they bright before this problem. Yes I remember the dash lights working before this no spark problem and when I set the points to .017 yesterday evening is when I could really see the gauges were not lite.
Have you removed any grounds or ground wires from block to firewall and or any ground wires anywhere. No
Is the lead from the coil to the distributor inside the dist still intack.I will look this evening to make sure. We did not mess with it but I will make sure it is still connected.
Ive had those break before and killed the motor. Anyway fill us in a little on how it was running prior to the no spark condition. It would start right up after 3 pumps of the accelerator and choke pulled out3/4 of the way. Once warmed up and choke pushed back in, it still had its revving up and down issues which I’m assuming the carb. needs to be adjusted correctly. That’s the only thing that I can think of out of the ordinary.
And if it was did it just quit all together or did you have any prior problems leading up to the no start problem. Just would not start a couple days ago after running about 3 weeks ago.
You did mention that you dont see any dash lights. Were they bright before this problem. Yes I remember the dash lights working before this no spark problem and when I set the points to .017 yesterday evening is when I could really see the gauges were not lite.
Have you removed any grounds or ground wires from block to firewall and or any ground wires anywhere. No
Is the lead from the coil to the distributor inside the dist still intack.I will look this evening to make sure. We did not mess with it but I will make sure it is still connected.
Ive had those break before and killed the motor. Anyway fill us in a little on how it was running prior to the no spark condition. It would start right up after 3 pumps of the accelerator and choke pulled out3/4 of the way. Once warmed up and choke pushed back in, it still had its revving up and down issues which I’m assuming the carb. needs to be adjusted correctly. That’s the only thing that I can think of out of the ordinary.
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Additional info
Do you get any sparks when you stick a screw driver in the points and it touches ground? My friend did look down at the points with dist. cap off and he said that he say no spark. Do I still need to do the screwdriver thing?
Also, we can't even get spark from the coil so how would we get spark from the dist. which is further down the line? Is there something I don't understand? I thought the ignition allows power to the coil and from the coil it goes to the distributor. Please let me know if i'm misunderstanding something.
Also, we can't even get spark from the coil so how would we get spark from the dist. which is further down the line? Is there something I don't understand? I thought the ignition allows power to the coil and from the coil it goes to the distributor. Please let me know if i'm misunderstanding something.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,375
Likes: 5
From: seattle
You described a ballast resistor earlier(white rectangular ceramic block) have you un bolted it and looked at the backside??? if thats shot or weak it will kill the truck too...also...if you have another points rig that runs fne...swap out the coil...just because its new doesnt mean its good...Ive had them be bad out of the box before...
Have you checked for continuity between the points where the distrubtor lead wire is and the terminal on the distributor ?? if so and thats ok...swap the coil...
Also...were the points adjusted when the points rub block was on one of the lobes on the distributor shaft ??
You described the test which verified the ignition switch is good thus the pink coil resistor wire is good...so Im back to a bad coil...
- cs65
Have you checked for continuity between the points where the distrubtor lead wire is and the terminal on the distributor ?? if so and thats ok...swap the coil...
Also...were the points adjusted when the points rub block was on one of the lobes on the distributor shaft ??
You described the test which verified the ignition switch is good thus the pink coil resistor wire is good...so Im back to a bad coil...
- cs65
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 14,325
Likes: 14
From: Island Southeast Alaska
I agree Don. If the points where closed it may have damaged the coil. I wish I was there. I know I could find the problem in a few minutes.
IDK but I am thinking both the coil and the points are fried at this point.
What else could it be?
If ya got power at the coil and none at the points than try another coil.
And check the wire going through the dizzy housing to the points.
This is known to break or burn off inside the insulation.
If ya don't get any spark when trying to open the points and digging around them with a screw driver. This with the ign on. Than the lead in wire or coil is shot. If ya have power there than the points may be fried and need sanding to shine them up a bit.
You didn't by chance drop the screw that holds the points down and lost it and used another did you. If so it is under the breaker plate grounding out the dizzy. Don't ask how I know this.
IDK but I am thinking both the coil and the points are fried at this point.
What else could it be?
If ya got power at the coil and none at the points than try another coil.
And check the wire going through the dizzy housing to the points.
This is known to break or burn off inside the insulation.
If ya don't get any spark when trying to open the points and digging around them with a screw driver. This with the ign on. Than the lead in wire or coil is shot. If ya have power there than the points may be fried and need sanding to shine them up a bit.
You didn't by chance drop the screw that holds the points down and lost it and used another did you. If so it is under the breaker plate grounding out the dizzy. Don't ask how I know this.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,375
Likes: 5
From: seattle
Are you a screw dropper er Arctic...LOL...magnetic screwdrivers a good thing to have...anyways, if the truck ran prior to this endeavor I would do the coil...but that lil short wire within the distributor has been known to fail and cause havoc as arctic mentioned...
- cs65
- cs65
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Freshman User
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You described a ballast resistor earlier(white rectangular ceramic block) have you un bolted it and looked at the backside??? No, I will when I get home later. What exactly do I look for or how do I test this ballist resistor?
if thats shot or weak it will kill the truck too...also...if you have another points rig that runs fne...swap out the coil...just because its new doesnt mean its good...Ive had them be bad out of the box before...I will try this next if resistor checks out.
Have you checked for continuity between the points where the distrubtor lead wire is and the terminal on the distributor ?? if so and thats ok...swap the coil... (Distributor lead wire?) Is that the wire coming from neg. side of coil going to distributor?
(Terminal on the distributor?)Not sure where this is. Please explain.
Also...were the points adjusted when the points rub block was on one of the lobes on the distributor shaft ??Yes
You described the test which verified the ignition switch is good thus the pink coil resistor wire is good...so Im back to a bad coil...pink coil resistor wire?
Sorry for not understanding some of the terminology, please bare with me.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
fficeffice" /><o
></o>
if thats shot or weak it will kill the truck too...also...if you have another points rig that runs fne...swap out the coil...just because its new doesnt mean its good...Ive had them be bad out of the box before...I will try this next if resistor checks out.
Have you checked for continuity between the points where the distrubtor lead wire is and the terminal on the distributor ?? if so and thats ok...swap the coil... (Distributor lead wire?) Is that the wire coming from neg. side of coil going to distributor?
(Terminal on the distributor?)Not sure where this is. Please explain.
Also...were the points adjusted when the points rub block was on one of the lobes on the distributor shaft ??Yes
You described the test which verified the ignition switch is good thus the pink coil resistor wire is good...so Im back to a bad coil...pink coil resistor wire?
Sorry for not understanding some of the terminology, please bare with me.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
fficeffice" /><o></o>
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Freshman User
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I agree Don. If the points where closed it may have damaged the coil. I wish I was there. I know I could find the problem in a few minutes. 
IDK but I am thinking both the coil and the points are fried at this point.
What else could it be?
If ya got power at the coil and none at the points than try another coil.I will exchange this coil if these other test don't work out.
And check the wire going through the dizzy housing to the points.Will do
This is known to break or burn off inside the insulation.
If ya don't get any spark when trying to open the points and digging around them with a screw driver. This with the ign on. Than the lead in wire or coil is shot. If ya have power there than the points may be fried and need sanding to shine them up a bit.Will try this too with screwdriver
You didn't by chance drop the screw that holds the points down and lost it and used another did you. If so it is under the breaker plate grounding out the dizzy. Don't ask how I know this. Lol, no screws were lost.
IDK but I am thinking both the coil and the points are fried at this point.
What else could it be?
If ya got power at the coil and none at the points than try another coil.I will exchange this coil if these other test don't work out.
And check the wire going through the dizzy housing to the points.Will do
This is known to break or burn off inside the insulation.
If ya don't get any spark when trying to open the points and digging around them with a screw driver. This with the ign on. Than the lead in wire or coil is shot. If ya have power there than the points may be fried and need sanding to shine them up a bit.Will try this too with screwdriver
You didn't by chance drop the screw that holds the points down and lost it and used another did you. If so it is under the breaker plate grounding out the dizzy. Don't ask how I know this. Lol, no screws were lost.