. My '69 Mustang had about 1.5 turns of free play in the box! 
Steering wheel play
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New User
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 19
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Steering wheel play
So I'm new to the old truck world and figuring things out.
My 55 has a ton of play in the steering wheel, in both directions, before it actually turns. I've been searching but just don't see direct answers. With a large amount of play, does this mean the steering box is shot? I know nothing about steering and would like to upgrade steering on the stock frame. Is there much adjustment or are my symptoms a sign I better replace components? Once the wheels start to turn its really smooth...just takes several inches of movement in the wheel before the tires turn! But I hear no clunks or noises whle turning.
To be honest once steering and brakes are improved this baby will drive like a dream
My 55 has a ton of play in the steering wheel, in both directions, before it actually turns. I've been searching but just don't see direct answers. With a large amount of play, does this mean the steering box is shot? I know nothing about steering and would like to upgrade steering on the stock frame. Is there much adjustment or are my symptoms a sign I better replace components? Once the wheels start to turn its really smooth...just takes several inches of movement in the wheel before the tires turn! But I hear no clunks or noises whle turning.
To be honest once steering and brakes are improved this baby will drive like a dream
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 16,876
Likes: 3,122
From: SE Wisc. (the Rust Belt)
I have gone through the same problem with '49 F-2. I ended up going through the entire front end replacing the worn steering box, rebuilding the drag link, replacing the tie rods and king pins. I did these in steps over a period of month feel improvements for each part replaced or rebuilt. What I'm say is I found each part affects the steering and from recent experience when replace one part you'll probably find more parts that are in need of replacement.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 16,876
Likes: 3,122
From: SE Wisc. (the Rust Belt)
I had a lot play. I say I had at least 10-15°. There's still a little but I don't know how much there should be but I doubt I could get it much tighter.
There are kits to rebuild steering boxes for the '48-52 trucks, I don't know what is out for the newer trucks . I am sure there are, the newer trucks are more popular and more is available for them.
There are kits to rebuild steering boxes for the '48-52 trucks, I don't know what is out for the newer trucks . I am sure there are, the newer trucks are more popular and more is available for them.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 16,876
Likes: 3,122
From: SE Wisc. (the Rust Belt)
As I replaced parts I could notice an improvement, that's how bad the play was in my steering.
Also, I was amazed at the difference in ride when I replaced the front spring bolts and bushings.
Also, I was amazed at the difference in ride when I replaced the front spring bolts and bushings.
FTE fan
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,674
Likes: 11
From: paradise, northern calif.
Just about the same as Bob, on my F1, each part replaced helped untill I now have a small acceptable amount of play. I rebuilt my own steering box, i had a pro do the kingpins, i replaced the tie rod and tie rod ends , i rebuilt my drag linp, i replaced my pitman arm and ball on steering linkage, i replaced Front springs and pins, i replaced steering colum and wheel, i adjusted castor and camber. the steering colum and wheel were jut to get back to stock and did not affect the steering.And brakes so far i have replaced, all drums / lineings, all wheel cylinders, the master cylinder all wheel hardware, and i intend to replace the steel lines and hoses.I love the way my truck steers and rides. Good luck on yours, its all easy except for maybe the king pins unless you have expeierence and tools.oh yeah i replaced the existing steering dampner.
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FTE fan
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,674
Likes: 11
From: paradise, northern calif.
It should be mentiond that there are other ways to correct a worn steering box, ther is a kit alot of guyys like that replace your stock box with a toyoto power steering set up, i beleive the whole kit is sold for around $600, but I dont know much about it, some ambitious folks favor a mustang 2 ifs this takes alot more money and work, and again im not the one to tell you about this process, and the last option I can think of is a front end clip wich requires alot of skill, and again you guessd it im not the one to...LOL OK im sure people ssmarter than myself will be more than happy to fill you in on any or all of the alturnetives, again good luc, and welcome to the site.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,685
Likes: 80
From: Northville, MI
I have gone through the same problem with '49 F-2. I ended up going through the entire front end replacing the worn steering box, rebuilding the drag link, replacing the tie rods and king pins. I did these in steps over a period of month feel improvements for each part replaced or rebuilt. What I'm say is I found each part affects the steering and from recent experience when replace one part you'll probably find more parts that are in need of replacement.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 825
Likes: 3
From: Michigan
There is an adjustment on the steering gear box at the base of the column.
Loosen the lock nut and turn the screw ( screwdriver) clockwise until tight.
May not remove all the play but will take out all the adjustment possible.
I replaced every steering related part with new and had the box rebuilt and still have some play.
Loosen the lock nut and turn the screw ( screwdriver) clockwise until tight.
May not remove all the play but will take out all the adjustment possible.
I replaced every steering related part with new and had the box rebuilt and still have some play.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,793
Likes: 19
From: Austin
Hey Goat,
Hmmm... Steering - Our 1950 was downright scary - wandered all over the road & had a lot of play in the wheel - kind of floated around...
You have three basic choices - Fix your existing front end with the stock straight axle, Upgrade your steering box to the Toyota PS box & fix
worn front end parts, or replace the whole front axle, brakes, steering etc. with a Mustang II Kit.
We did the Mustang II Kit - $2700 for the parts & then installation - which involves major frame surgery & welding. Downtime - 3 to 4 months at a minimum. I wouldn't recommend this one - too invasive & leaves you with a "pile of parts" that may never become a truck again.
Take your time & really go through your stock front end - replace the worn bits & get to know your truck then upgrade to Toyota power steering if/when you want or front disc brakes. Under $1000 & a couple of weekends.
Good luck over there!
Ben in Austin
Hmmm... Steering - Our 1950 was downright scary - wandered all over the road & had a lot of play in the wheel - kind of floated around...
You have three basic choices - Fix your existing front end with the stock straight axle, Upgrade your steering box to the Toyota PS box & fix
worn front end parts, or replace the whole front axle, brakes, steering etc. with a Mustang II Kit.
We did the Mustang II Kit - $2700 for the parts & then installation - which involves major frame surgery & welding. Downtime - 3 to 4 months at a minimum. I wouldn't recommend this one - too invasive & leaves you with a "pile of parts" that may never become a truck again.
Take your time & really go through your stock front end - replace the worn bits & get to know your truck then upgrade to Toyota power steering if/when you want or front disc brakes. Under $1000 & a couple of weekends.
Good luck over there!
Ben in Austin
Believe Nothing
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 7,514
Likes: 398
From: W. Central FL.
Establish the straight ahead position of the wheels. Clamp or lock the pitman arm so it can not move. A large C clamp to frame works well. Then check the steering wheel for play. There should be none if everything is in the straight ahead position. Chances are you will find the steering box burned up with grease. Burned up in this case means it has been running a long while without grease. It probably started leaking years ago and no one ever checked it. Fill the box with the correct oil, plug on top. You may save it if you're lucky. The adjustment mentioned earlier will allow you to move the roller closer to the worm gear and may take some of the slop out. If the worm has end play, all bets on getting a tight box are off. If it has run without oil grease for long the gear box is history and will need rebuilt. Start with the gear box..If the oil runs out, John Deere corn head grease will do the job and generally stay within worn seals.
Next is the drag link and on to tie rod ends. Any slop is no good. The shop manual would be your friend,
Next is the drag link and on to tie rod ends. Any slop is no good. The shop manual would be your friend,
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,057
Likes: 2
From: Kalamazoo MI
I'll chime in on my experience. In the past I have messed around and put up with a lot of play in the steering wheel. Not anymore. I recently did a toyota conversion and will NEVER put up with the stock gear boxes again. Yes, it takes time, money and headaches but once the conversion is done, you will never look back.
I can't speak for pre-53 trucks, but 53 and up trucks are worth converting over. I spent so much time with worn worm gears, bad sector shafts and leaking boxes. If you scrounge around you can do the whole conversion for about $350-$400. Good luck and post pics of your 55.
I can't speak for pre-53 trucks, but 53 and up trucks are worth converting over. I spent so much time with worn worm gears, bad sector shafts and leaking boxes. If you scrounge around you can do the whole conversion for about $350-$400. Good luck and post pics of your 55.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,685
Likes: 80
From: Northville, MI
If the worm has end play, all bets on getting a tight box are off. If it has run without oil grease for long the gear box is history and will need rebuilt. Start with the gear box..If the oil runs out, John Deere corn head grease will do the job and generally stay within worn seals.
Next is the drag link and on to tie rod ends. Any slop is no good. The shop manual would be your friend,
Next is the drag link and on to tie rod ends. Any slop is no good. The shop manual would be your friend,
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