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Just to add a little. I have the 7", I don't know how the lower adjustment bracket is on an FE but on my 302 I had to grind a little clearance on the lower bracket because the bracket hit the the alternator before the bolt hole could line up with the adjustment slot. But just a little grinding on the top edge of the bracket and it allowed the slot and the hole in the alternator to line up just fine and have full range of movement for belt tension.
I don't know how the lower adjustment bracket is on an FE but on my 302 I had to grind a little clearance on the lower bracket because the bracket hit the the alternator before the bolt hole could line up with the adjustment slot.
yep- I had to do the same thing on my FE with the big-case alternator.
FYI... If your FE has a high-mounted alternator, you may have to saw off a boss on back on the donor 3G alternator so it clears the cylinder head. It depends on what source year/model donor the 3G is from
Also, clock the 3G's rear case so the plug is about at the 8 o'clock position...less strain on the wiring. 8am or 8pm, it doesn't matter.
One more question, I've read dozens of threads and I'm still not clear if my ammeter will still work in my '70 F250. I know the factory piece doesn't work well but just wondered.
LOL... the 3g also has to come from an AZ vehicle cuz they don't do daylight saving time!
Originally Posted by abyars111
Thanks for the tips!
One more question, I've read dozens of threads and I'm still not clear if my ammeter will still work in my '70 F250. I know the factory piece doesn't work well but just wondered.
I found this modified regulator that lets ya keep the ammeter and other stock wiring.
"This kit is made specifically for the installation of a Ford 3G alternator on any vehicle where the stock alternator was EXTERNALLY regulated
We incorporate a new replacement external regulator box (as shown) to capture the proper circuit and retain the stock wiring harness along with our own 3-wire (3G Series) regulator plug. This kit allows the customer to retain the OEM warning lights and shunt type ammeter** ( ** direct reading ammeter should not be used or should be bridged due to the significant increase in measured amperage with upgrade alternators)
Installation only requires the customer replace the stock external regulator with the one provided, install the alternator and our 3-wire plug, then make one crimp connection from the original wires at the alternator. All alternator upgrades require a large (#6 or #4 gauge) wire be run from the output of the alternator to the vehicle harness"
That's a nifty regulator. I didn't even know they made them.
I will be doing this swap after I get my fuel sending unit issues worked out.
I am wanting to run HID lights, a halfway decent stereo, and possibly an electric fan.
Not sure I would want to use the regulator but nice to know it's out there.
thanks for posting HIO Silver.
P.S. Good call on the Arizona alternator. I totally forgot to factor in DST.
I asked PA Performance about the regulator. Rick Harmon from PA Performance answered me right away. I was curious who made it and de says they make the regulator themselves.
When you get to wiring the fan I believe 80's volvo have a two way switch in them to operate the high/low on fan. My computer crashed a while back so I no longer have the info. Maybe someone else saved the link and can post it?
I do not know about the Volvos but this may help. I do know that Some Ford vehicles 1990's and 2000's, used a "dropping resistor" to get the slower speed. Contours, Mustangs,etc. They were mounted in the electric fan's fan shroud so the air flow would keep them from getting too hot. (Resistance equals heat). The Mark viii's fans did not use these from the factory. But if you are junk yard scrounging you may use these for the slower speed wiring. Get the wiring off the donor vehicle also.
I do not know about the Volvos but this may help. I do know that Some Ford vehicles 1990's and 2000's, used a "dropping resistor" to get the slower speed. Contours, Mustangs,etc. They were mounted in the electric fan's fan shroud so the air flow would keep them from getting too hot. (Resistance equals heat). The Mark viii's fans did not use these from the factory. But if you are junk yard scrounging you may use these for the slower speed wiring. Get the wiring off the donor vehicle also.
Are you guys talking about the fan control switch, if so I used it on my truck and it works good,If you guys want,also on the 73-79 forum is this link where it talks about all kind of projects,https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...mpilation.html
Search this in google.
Budget Dual Fan Controller Setup / Taurus Fan Setup - NastyZ28.
I did mine with 2 golf cart solenoids and 2 universal temperature sensors. Works but if I had known about other methods would have done wiring differently.
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