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I am on the hunt. Going to the jy to see what goodies may be found. Trying to knock out the honey do list to keep calm and order in the land. I so need this upgrade. Been carrying jumper cables in the truck for the last couple months. Pain in the butocks. I have a '78 F150 Custom with a 300 L6. Nothing but problems since I put in an after market stereo and amp and sub. I will post progress and "HELP" questions.
"This kit is made specifically for the installation of a Ford 3G alternator on any vehicle where the stock alternator was EXTERNALLY regulated
We incorporate a new replacement external regulator box (as shown) to capture the proper circuit and retain the stock wiring harness along with our own 3-wire (3G Series) regulator plug. This kit allows the customer to retain the OEM warning lights and shunt type ammeter** ( ** direct reading ammeter should not be used or should be bridged due to the significant increase in measured amperage with upgrade alternators)
Installation only requires the customer replace the stock external regulator with the one provided, install the alternator and our 3-wire plug, then make one crimp connection from the original wires at the alternator. All alternator upgrades require a large (#6 or #4 gauge) wire be run from the output of the alternator to the vehicle harness"
Last edited by HIO Silver; Jan 5, 2013 at 05:15 PM.
Reason: Duh.. Fergot to add the product URL!
No need to use other gauges now. I'm betting all of the guys who have already switched out their gauges for different ones won't be happy... but I sure am!
No need to use other gauges now. I'm betting all of the guys who have already switched out their gauges for different ones won't be happy... but I sure am!
More incentive to do my 3G swap now :P Thanks!
You're welcome. .....I was perusing the November 2007 issue of Mustang & Fords magazine in "the library" (ya know, that place at home where ya do the most reading ) and that part was shown in the "Parts Counter" section. It didn't register in my head cuz I got my Dent in December 2009.
It's easy enough to retrofit... I never throw out OEM wiring cuz ya never know.. case in point.
what is a "direct read" ammeter? is the stock ammeter in the instrument panel a "shunt" unit?
A direct read ammeter is one that the alternator output flows through the ammeter. A shunt style uses a shunt wired into the charge circuit. The shunt senses the charge rate and sends a signal to the ammeter and this is what the ammeter "sees" not the full charge amperage.
The stock Ford ammeter is a shunt style.
My old alt is squealing bad. Time for a 3G! Which "eared" alt do I want for a stock 460? the long or short? Just read all 25 pages and all the links. Seems the long eared alts work best on the FE engines and everyone else is using the shorts. Been holding off on a stereo upgrade and a 12V/120V converter.
My old alt is squealing bad. Time for a 3G! Which "eared" alt do I want for a stock 460? the long or short? Just read all 25 pages and all the links. Seems the long eared alts work best on the FE engines and everyone else is using the shorts. Been holding off on a stereo upgrade and a 12V/120V converter.
Either one will work fine.
I've tried to use the long pattern as much as I can, but have used the short pattern a couple times and it seemed it took more fab work.
Fab work like what? Making the adjuster arm longer? My current alt is hanging low and away from the oil pan. Looks like 3G fit in there just fine. Can't wait. My son thinks I am wasting money buying used . He wants to use a $200 kit on his 96. LOL
I wanted to add something to this topic. I have not read all the pages, but one thing I would suggest is upgrading your Big 3and while swapping alternators. I used to compete in car audio shpws, and one of the first things you do to improve current flow from alt to battery is replace the positive to alternator wire, the battery to frame ground, and block to frame ground with 0 gauge wire.
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