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Old Aug 7, 2012 | 06:03 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by tjustice
Guess you use simple green instead of VC-9??????
you can use Both

Do it separatly

And do the Simple green First to get oil out repeat as many times aS it takes to get Oil Out Turn the heater on to if it been contaminated

I would do Simple green till oil is Gone for most part and run truck till cycle the cleaner in everything the whole cooling system is contaminated


VC-9 is Cooling system Rust Cleaner so do it Last
 
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Old Aug 7, 2012 | 07:37 PM
  #17  
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Well Tj, now that you are the expert and don't have a truck to mess around with (since yours is done) want to come and work on mine
 

Last edited by metmop; Aug 7, 2012 at 07:38 PM. Reason: spellin
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Old Aug 7, 2012 | 07:48 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by metmop
Well Tj, now that you are the expert and don't have a truck to mess around with (since yours is done) want to come and work on mine
Not an expert by no means, these guys on here saved my A**, but id sure return the favor if i can, definitely know my 6.0 up one side and down the other......Where u located????? Never mind on that, was on my phone looking and didn't get your location... However do have family all around the Orlando area and off till Saturday.....
 
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Old Aug 7, 2012 | 08:13 PM
  #19  
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Actually other than fixing the vacuum leak on my Fx4 my truck is running like a champ. I am planning on doing the ARP studs and stand pipes and all that eventually. But till then.... I am in Apopka really but close enough. One of these days when I am in Tennesee I will have to look you up.... I want to hit up Deal's gap aka Tail of the Dragon.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 05:28 AM
  #20  
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One of these days when I am in Tennesee I will have to look you up.... I want to hit up Deal's gap aka Tail of the Dragon.

I am about 5 miles from Bristol Motor Speedway, let me know when you come up, will meet you there on the Harley as well...... Love to ride, going today as a matter of fact.....
 
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 05:33 AM
  #21  
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Actually other than fixing the vacuum leak on my Fx4 my truck is running like a champ.

Are you referring to the automatic hubs? In this process I discovered my vacuum line had melted where it passes my the down pipe and manifolds..I just ordered a new one yesterday...$58 and some change, I believe......
 
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 04:43 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by tjustice
Actually other than fixing the vacuum leak on my Fx4 my truck is running like a champ.

Are you referring to the automatic hubs? In this process I discovered my vacuum line had melted where it passes my the down pipe and manifolds..I just ordered a new one yesterday...$58 and some change, I believe......
Yeah the automatic hubs. Mine is in the hub somewhere. My AC works just fine till I engage 4x4 then the AC defaults to Defrost. Since I have AC normally I know it isn't a vacuum leak in the lines. It is in the hub itself. Why did you order a vacuum line? I could be wrong but if you take a sample to Autozone they have 100 foot rolls and sell it by the foot. I think it's like a dollar something a foot. Another few bucks for the connecters and you are gtg. $20 top and no delay.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 05:16 PM
  #23  
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Why did you order a vacuum line? I could be wrong but if you take a sample to Autozone they have 100 foot rolls and sell it by the foot. I think it's like a dollar something a foot. Another few bucks for the connecters and you are gtg. $20 top and no delay. __________________



Now I know.....Oh well....
 
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 05:21 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by metmop
Yeah the automatic hubs. Mine is in the hub somewhere. My AC works just fine till I engage 4x4 then the AC defaults to Defrost. Since I have AC normally I know it isn't a vacuum leak in the lines. It is in the hub itself. Why did you order a vacuum line? I could be wrong but if you take a sample to Autozone they have 100 foot rolls and sell it by the foot. I think it's like a dollar something a foot. Another few bucks for the connecters and you are gtg. $20 top and no delay.
If the statement highlighted in bold red is what your truck is doing, you likely need to have your PVH (Pulse Vacuum Hub) solenoid replaced. Simply pull the small section of vacuum hose connection of at the plastic junction before it enters the steering knuckle with the wheel lifted off the ground. Suck on the hose and see if it will build vacuum while spinning the wheel by hand at the same time to see if it engages the axle. If it builds vacuum and engages the axle, you've eliminated THAT as your source. Repeat the process for the other wheel.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 05:25 PM
  #25  
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It is indeed what it it is doing. I will look at it this weekend. But thank you for the advice. It is why I love this site
 
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 05:34 PM
  #26  
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And by the way, if it IS your PVH solenoid the part number from Ford is 7C3Z-9H465-A to the parts guy from having to look it up. You may even want to "borrow" a known good one off a buddy's truck to try. It is literally two 10mm bolts, a three wire electrical connector and two vacuum lines that connects to it, directly beside your passenger side battery in the engine compartment.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 03:37 PM
  #27  
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Ok there is something I am not understanding. With the truck off and the wheel turned to allow a little access. I jacked up the wheel. I then disconnected the vacuum line where it went throught the wheel well right above the brake line. I then sucked on the line while turning the wheel. was unable to get the hub to engage. I tried to do the same thing with the other side. Still no luck. I then started the truck and with it idling engaged 4x4 and attempted to turn the wheel. 4 wheel drive was engaged and couldn't spin wheel. I did the same with the other side. Was I just unable to suck enough,,,, (i quit smoking a few years back!!!) BTW that rubber was nasty. It is starting to degrade.... I ended up spitting black crap I may run new vacuum line any way since that is starting to break down. Anyways enlighten me as to what I am missing. Or do I just need a vacuum pump?
 
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 06:25 PM
  #28  
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testing should be done with a might vac or the like.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 09:42 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by cheezit
testing should be done with a might vac or the like.

So you dont recomend Lip Pressure LOL



A high vacuum level (222 mm [8.75 in] Hg and greater) is
applied to the hublocks to lock the internal spring mechanism that engages (locks) the hublocks for 4x4 mode, and a lower vacuum
level (114 to 184 mm [5.9 to 7.1 in] Hg) is applied to unlock the spring mechanism that disengages (unlocks) the hublocks for 2WD
mode



 
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 10:36 PM
  #30  
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I think what you want to do is pull vac on it and see if it will Hold Vac



Theres 2 Lines coming off the Vac Silinoid one goes to Climate Control other goes to 4x4

The Line going to the Hubs comes off the silinoid drops down about a Foot and then Splits into 2 for Each front Tire Put the vac test right there whatever one WONT Hold Vac is your Culprit then Chase the Bad side and Hook Into it Just Like Mike Mentions Right at the Hub see if the Hub Will Hold VAC

Hopefulley the Hub will Hold Vac and its Just a Bad VAC Line Cause them Hub Seals Can be Expensive and you will have to make the special Tool to Install it

There are Inner and Outer Hub Seals IDK if the Techs have a Way to Dial what seal it is Be IT a Inner or Outter Hub Seal or if they just Change All them


Is your Front end Leaf Spring Type or Coil over Axel???? the seals are diff I described Leaf style front end
 
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