Dumb Hitch Question
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
From: Fort Rucker, AL
Dumb Hitch Question
So I've been searching through all of the threads about the difference in the 1000 vs 1250 lb hitch. I guess everyone has pretty much agreed the difference is the bolts that bolt the receiver on. Here's my dumb question. Is it worth just welding the thing on? I cant see bigger bolts being better than welding it on. Are there any downsides to it? Do you think it would strain the frame with the weight of the big trailer i'm about to put on it? Just a thought. I figure it would probably be just as cheap and easy to get a local guy weld it. Thanks
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,885
Likes: 3,420
From: Ohio
Might harm the heat treating on the frame? Just a guess, might not be an issue.
Would make it a lot harder to remove if you ever needed to remove it. (why would you need to remove it? beats me.)
Would make it a lot harder to remove if you ever needed to remove it. (why would you need to remove it? beats me.)
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
From: Fort Rucker, AL
Gotcha, it was just a thought. I guess im just going to have to go through getting the new bolts and boring out the old holes a little more. No big deal, just figured the welds would be a hell of a lot stronger.
Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
I'm currently looking into this as well. I just purchased a trailer with a tongue weight of 1,110 to 1,200 lbs. I know I probably should not have done it but I just got back from a 200 mile trip using my stock hitch which is rated for only 1,000 lbs. I called a local shop and was quoted $320.00 to install a new drawtite hitch with a 1,200 lbs tongue rating but would rather do the bolt swap thing if it truly increase the weight carrying capacity.
My question is to anyone who has swapped the bolts, how hard is it to do?
My question is to anyone who has swapped the bolts, how hard is it to do?
Hotshot
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 13,484
Likes: 42
From: Stevens Point, WI
Trending Topics
Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Does anyone know the part numbers off hand for the larger bolts? Should I get them directly from Ford or is there a better/cheaper option?
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 463
Likes: 0
From: Morgantown, WV
W708772S439 - M18 bolts
W709318S441 - NUT&RET M18X65
Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
If you don't mind me asking, how much were those parts? Also, I agree with using regular bolts instead of the shear head bolts so that is probably the way I will go. You said you ordered 4 nut/retainers. Does that mean you ordered 4 of part number W709318S441 - NUT&RET M18X65? I want to make sure I don't end up with 4 nuts when I need 8.
I appreciate your help with this. I've read so much about this upgrade but I've not seen a post which laid out exactly what I need. I probably haven't searched hard enough.
I appreciate your help with this. I've read so much about this upgrade but I've not seen a post which laid out exactly what I need. I probably haven't searched hard enough.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 463
Likes: 0
From: Morgantown, WV
The total was about $80 plus shipping.
The nut/retainer is a flat piece of metal that spans two holes on the frame and has a nut on each end. I'm guessing this is at least in part to make it easier to turn the bolts since you can't really reach the nuts very well. As I understand, you have to drop the fuel tank a few inches to reach them at all. (I haven't done mine yet. The holes on the hitch I picked up are for the M14 bolts and need to be enlarged. There is a metal fab place in town that said they'd do that for about $70. The holes in the frame are already big enough.)
There is a long running thread on this (I think it was started by Joe aka X_Hemi_Guy) that has a lot of useful information and some photos of the new vs. old bolts, etc.
Also, I agree with using regular bolts instead of the shear head bolts so that is probably the way I will go. You said you ordered 4 nut/retainers. Does that mean you ordered 4 of part number W709318S441 - NUT&RET M18X65? I want to make sure I don't end up with 4 nuts when I need 8.
There is a long running thread on this (I think it was started by Joe aka X_Hemi_Guy) that has a lot of useful information and some photos of the new vs. old bolts, etc.
Tuned
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 261
Likes: 67
From: SW Cook County, Illinois
Rear hitch removal
I would like to remove mine, and get it painted or power coated. Still working on the shear bolts, drilled out with half inch bit, but stuck there!
Cross-Country
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 59
Likes: 9
From: Four Corners
I have dropped the fuel tank twice without ever removing the hitch. Piece of cake, just make sure there's no fule in it.
can anyone confirm with authority that the frame is heat treated. Just curious.
can anyone confirm with authority that the frame is heat treated. Just curious.
Tuned
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 261
Likes: 67
From: SW Cook County, Illinois