Alright guys I just got the 6637 & CCV kit from riffraff. The gf got it for me for our anniversary. I plan on putting all of it on this coming weekend. I want to take my intercooler pipes and clean them up and also clean the intercooler out. Are there any other mods I should do while I'm this far? I plan on doing the 50 cent mod but anything else I should do while I'm in there it would be nice to know. Appreciate it guys

 

I would get some Riffraff Intercooler boots too.

 

What he said ^^^^>>>>
Retorque the injector hold down bolts.

 

Mine isthe easiest of them all.... Drink more beer. Can't work on the truck without it.

 

Once you're done and cleaned up, take the GF out for a nice dinner.

 

I've already got the planned MTalley lol. Taking her out Saturday. Also got some tickets to the Arkansas LSU game in November cause she's a big razorback fan. Ok well that ones for both us lol. Oh and microdevil I always have plenty of beer. Icechest never gets below a 12 pack lol. Thanks for the suggestions guys

 

AIH delete would be a good quick one if your feeling froggy. Some like it some don't. Up to you.
Riffraff Diesel Performance Parts: - AIH Delete Plug

Also ,Plenum Reinforcing Inserts

Riffraff Diesel Performance Parts: - Plenum Reinforcing Inserts

Got to thinkin about it somemore...

 

what is the advantage of the AIH delete? I am learning as I go. I live in a cold climate. Is this a southern thing? When removing the heating device, what is done with it?

 

There needs to be a very particular set of circumstances for the AIH to ever be 'needed'. It's only purpose is to reduce white smoke during extended idling periods in weather below 32F. There's a few other conditions that need to occur before it is even needed. It has nothing to do with cold starting. Some say removing it will free up flow, but that is debatable. I removed it and got a delete plug from Clay that had a port for my boost gauge sensor.

 

It restricts airflow. For those of us down in the heat its useless. So we remove it, toss it in a bin somewhere just in case... and put a plug in the hole. Theres some fancy shmancy electro resistor majiger that u can plug in somewhere to eleminate the soft code. But it doesnt cause an ses light so i didnt bother.

Xtof

 

You can put a 470 ohm resistor in the place of the AIH. It is highly recommended that you put in a 1 watt resistor instead of a 1/4 or 1/2 watt. This resistor can be installed on your Exhaust Back Pressure Valve(EBPV) solenoid actuator at the pedestal that the turbo is mounted to also. Pros and cons to removing the EBPV also.
Here is the link for putting in the resistor for the EBPV delete mod that I did.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...e-install.html
Dwayne

 

Here is the write up for my 50 cent mod. I included the torques for the LOWER injector hold down bolts, rocker arm bolts and valve covers. It is detailed but covers almost everything except connections for the AIH if you want to remove the spider connnection for the CAC pipes.
You know I have to pop in here and ask if the Under Valve Cover Harness (UVCH) connector has been looked at and the 50 cent mod done? 50 cent mod video here
2001 F350 7.3L Turbo Diesel, UVCH - YouTube

How to do it written down from my post in another thread. The video above is not my video but is a great training tool.

For the 50 cent mod you will need two quarters, a short 13mm socket, deep 13mm socket and a universal or wobble short extension to get the back bolt on the drivers side and a few of the bottom bolts on the passenger side, a 13mm wrench and a long(6-8 inch) extension. Various wrenches and sockets for pulling harness connector and Intercooler boot clamps. You will also need a 1/4 inch torque wrench with inch LBS for units and a 3/8 torque wrench for foot LBS units.
Only takes 20-25 minutes to pull the Turbo intake hoses and Turbo pipe(metal) on the driver's side. Be careful with the boots. Just be easy with them.
Don't pay too much attention to all the oil inside of the inlet tube and metal pipe as you can clean them any time IN THE FUTURE.
Right now focus on taking the valve cover off. I take out the stock filter and all the inlet tubing going to the turbo then I gently shove a not so good towel into the stock filter box AND lay a moving blanket( very thick folded over several times) over the battery and stock filter box so I can lay on it while I take the Valve cover bolts out. Be careful of the towel in the stock box for the sensor in that box. They are fragile. I am short so please laugh and work with me at the same time.
Unbolt the 42 pin electrical connector on top of the valve cover. If you have an air compressor, now is the time to blow any debris around the valve cover down out of the way.
Take a PICTURE or take note which fasteners are bolts and which ones are studs with a nut to mount something else to. You will want to put it back exactly as it was. Get the 13mm socket and a 13mm wrench.
DO NOT TAKE THE Positive Crankcase Vent or CrankCase Vent(CCV) DOGHOUSE OFF UNLESS YOU HAVE THE FOUR ORINGS TO RESEAL IT
4 Viton O-rings to reseal the Crank Case Vent cover
OR THE ORINGS WILL SWELL UP AND BE NO GOOD AND YOU WILL LEAK OIL ALL OVER THE PLACE UNTIL YOU GET THE NEW ORINGS.
Using the 13mm wrench carefully remove the bolt just above the CCV dog house and leave the CCV in place. You will not be able to use the socket with the CCV in the way. Now you can use that 13mm socket and take all the rest of the bolts out. The hardest one is on the rear of the cover and you can not see the bolt without a mirror. Don't worry about the mirror, just loosen it and place the bolts to the side. I use a 5 gallon pail to put my fastners in. Slow down when you get the bolts loose and keep a tight grip on them unless you like fishing for metal in the pit of hell. I put a tarp under the truck for items I drop to easily find them.
When you pull the cover loose, be slow and easy so you don't put any debris in the VC area. If your harness connection is loose, very gently push the connector towards the top of the VC gasket and let the clips clip UPWARD into place. You could also unclip it and inspect for burnt connectors. Place the connector back firmly in place. Now take the quarter that you have shaved off right at the top of the hair line on the head and slide it in round side down and flat, cut side toward the TOP of the valve cover. DO NOT FORCE ANYTHING unless you have a fresh Benjamin Franklin laying around to spend on a new gasket/harness.
The clips should be clipped fully in and pushing up whilist the quarter holds the clips up. The flat spot gives the valve cover enough room to be installed and keeps the quarter from going anywhere.
If you want to you can now check the torque on the:
Lower injector hold down bolts at 120 INCH lbs.
Rocker arm bolts at 20 Foot lbs
Valve cover bolts when reinstalled will be 96 INCH lbs.
Verify all of the injector connectors are secured and clipped
Verify all of the glow plug wires are tight.
Do everything in the reverse order to put it all back together. Wipe the oil coated pipes down to remove any excess oil and start on the passenger side
Remove the intercooler pipe. You will figure out that you have to move it above the turbo to get it out. Lots of room above that turbo. I loosened my boost pressure gauge and tied it back with string or a small bungee.
Bungee cord the two heater pipes toward the passenger side fender. I put the Moving blanket on this side but did not lean on the A/C pipes. Same thing on this side except you have a bolt holding down the Engine Oil Dipstick so be careful with the dipstick. Only pull the dipstick high enough to remove it from the stud. The bolt near the AC compressor is tight but you can get to it with a few extensions and a deep socket. Same one as the oil dipstick. Note the stud positions again. Don't loose the heater hose clips because they are 28$ at the dealer. Loosen and remove the rest of the bolt/studs. Same thing as the driver's side from here.
Man, that is a lot of typing. Talking thru it is much less time consuming. LOL. Put a wrench in your hands and get to work. The sooner you get it done, the sooner you can drink that favorite cold beverage and relax that another inexpensive mod is done and you will feel better for not spending any money at the mechanic shop or Stealership It might even run much better or have gained some power back. Same torque values as mentioned above. Be careful whilist VC's are open. If it rains you need to shut the hood all the way immediately after you remove the blanket and slowly slip the VC in place. I hope this helps and is not too mundane. I prefer air tools but you need to put it back together with regular rachet/wrench and get torque values correct.
Dwayne