Yeah, another Tribute (Escape) owner with tranny issues.....

I recently bought an '02 Tribute V6 4WD. Got it cheap because it had 343k kilometres on it. And I had to fix a few things and thoroughly cleaned the interior. It runs sweet as now except for the transmission. It does everything it should, it's just that it seems like it is poorly programmed with it's shifting behaviour. Physically I think it is OK, it has a new torque converter so it's obviously had major service already.
Is this something that requires a rebuild kit put through it,
(MAZDA TRIBUTE TRANSMISSION REBUILT KIT 2000-UP CD4E | eBay)
or a shift correction kit,
(CD4E TRANSMISSION SHIFT CORRECTION KIT FREE SHIP !! transgo escape probe ford | eBay or
TRANSGO Shift Kit® SK®CD4E-Jr CD4E LA4A-EL FORD MAZDA 1994-04 Escape 626 Contour | eBay)
or is it something that requires reprogramming of the ECU to fix properly?
I'm willing to do any of these options, just want to know which option will work best and improve it's shifting behaviour.

Looking forward to your feedback.............

 

What's wrong with it's shifting behavior?

 

If I'm just dawdling about it's just fine. But if I take off from a standstill using a bit more throttle, you would expect it to not shift into 2nd until higher in the rev range. The more throttle and the more revs demanded, the later the gear shift should be. But it continues to shift early, under 3000rpm, even when I give it enough throttle to be doing 4000rpm.
And then it really doesn't know when to use overdrive. There is times when I'm at a speed where it's in 3rd and happy, and I give it a little more throttle to increase speed, just mild acceleration, and it shifts into OD rather than gaining the extra speed in 3rd before shifting into OD once up to speed.
It's just often counter intuitive to normal transmission shifting behaviour.

I don't think any clutches are slipping or anything mechanically wrong. Just the decision making process of when to make gear changes.
Which makes me think it is more an issue with the ECU programming. But maybe there is some issue with hydraulic pressures or sticky/leaking valves/pistons in the tranny.

I'm quite happy to install one of those shift kits, easy enough to do and not too expensive. Providing it will actually make a positive difference.
I'm also willing to do something about the ECU too, although I need a bit of direction about what and how to go about that.
I don't know, but maybe just replacing the whole ECU with one from a later model might be the easiest option. But if it's possible to upgrade/reprogram what I've got I'm willing to try that too.

The ECU part# is 1L80-12A650-DB
and I'm guessing it's catchword is - PHR1
This # doesn't appear on a Ford ECU database so it does seem to be unique to Aussie delivered and/or Mazda.
Build date is Oct'01 so I assume it is the original ECU, although I don't know if it has ever been re-flashed/upgraded.

 

I'd check the VSS, vehicle speed sensor, for reliable output. The TPS, Throttle Position Sensor, also could cause similar operation. The MAF and MAP monitor Manifold Air Flow and Manifold Absolute Pressure respectively. The MAF measures how much air is coming into the engine, and tells the ECM. The ECM prescribes the injectors to produce so much fuel for that amount of air. The MAP measures 'vacuum' in the intake. Floor it, and the vacuum drops way quickly, indicating to the ECM that there is a good load on the engine, so it adds more fuel to make it more powerful.
I'd suspect one of those gizmos is 'working' but not as well as it should.
tom

 

I can and will check the signals from these engine sensors, but the engine does seem to be behaving just fine. It responds to throttle input as I'd expect. It doesn't miss at all, no hesitations or anything like that. (New coils and plugs fixed those issues.)

 

The issue we are having with our 2001 Ford Escape 3.0 v6 that has the CD4E is that it shifts sort of like you say yours is doing, but with us, it gets into OD and doesn't want to downshift again. I can manually make it shift through the gears like it should by moving the shifter from D to 2 to 1. and so forth. From what I've gathered it seem to possibly be one of 3 sensors on the transmission that controls the shifting points by the fluid levels and the temp of the transaxle at certain operating temps. Those 3 sensors are pretty easy to replace if you can a parts house with them in stock and if you can find them at less th,an Ford OE prices. Those sensors are 1. Auto Trans Gear Position Sensor, 2. Trans Speed Sensor, and 3. Auto Trans Speed Sensor aka Sensor - Turbine Shaft Speed. I hope this helps you tons. Also these sensor normally don't throw trouble codes to the ECM but to the

 

Thanks Paul. I would have thought bad sensors would throw fault codes and make themselves clearly known. But what you say certainly makes a lot of sense and I'll try and source these parts and replace them. This certainly gives me some hope with it for sure. And I'll report on it here when I'm done.

 

The position sensor would confuse things if it failed. In some it is called the MLPS - Manual Lever Position Sensor, and it is used by the computer to handle the idle speed when you put the transmission in gear. Raise rpm in gear, lower it when in neutral. It also works the starter cutout so you don't start the engine in gear, and the backup lights.
The Turbine Shaft speed sensor will throw a code when it is in difficulty, I believe. I am not sure about the Trans Speed Sensor, as I've not heard that term used before.
Older transmissions used a 'throttle pressure' device, either a vacuum modulator or a lever attached to the throttle linkage{some use both}. The modulator would react to manifold vacuum, and lower spring pressure on a control valve in the valve body. The throttle pressure linkage would do similar, but use throttle position to change line pressure so that when you put your foot on the gas pedal, the lever would increase pressure so that upshifts occurred later, and when you were gentle on the throttle, the governor {now VSS} would win the argument, and cause upshifts sooner.
I would look at the TPS and the EPC solenoid. Throttle Position Sensor and mumble {electronic?} mumble Pressure Control solenoid. The TPS lets the computer know how much you mash on the gas, and the EPC responds {should...} to raise or lower line pressure in the transmission to make shifts softer or firmer, and maybe sooner or later. Not sure on the last bit.

 

Well, I thought I had it sorted, but it's since totalled failed.

I replaced the range selector switch, the TSS sensor (turbine shaft speed) and put a Superior shift correction kit in it. Well, only the valve body parts at least.
All went well and O/D behaved much better and as I had expected it too. The TSS was probably all it needed to fix it.

So for about 3 weeks of local driving it went spot on, no issues. But then we got set for a 2.5 hour trip and only got 15 minutes down the road. Had a nasty 2-3 shift flare and soon after lost all drive. Arranged a tow home, allowed to cool for half an hour and it had a little bit of drive. I was tempted to start driving home but tow was on it's way and by the time I'd put my seat belt on it was losing drive again, so didn't/couldn't.

I tried to use my compression tester to test line pressure. Not very successful because it holds the needle at peak pressure. But it did show not enough pressure at idle and giving it a few revs it jerked and pulsed up. No steady controlled pressure. Me thinks clogged filter.

I've now pulled the whole lot out, opened and stripped it's guts out. Forward clutch was blackened but still usable, direct clutch was pretty much destroyed and unusable. Cut the filter open, it was pretty cruddy but I don't know how restrictive it is.
I've been told that the Forward/Direct drum often cracks which prevents fluid pressure being able to apply those clutches properly. But for the life of me I can't see any fault with it at all.
So at this stage all I can put it down to is a clogged filter...........

I've just ordered a full rebuild kit including steel plates and a manual to show me how to do it properly.


Yes the filter is buried inside and requires splitting the case and gutting it to get it out.
Basic design FAILURE.
Freakin' unforgivable!
To not have a serviceable filter is deliberate designed obsolescence. Guaranteeing a major failure.
And it's not a good design that will reverse flush successfully either. And whatever will flush out is only going to sit in the case and eventually get sucked in again anyway. The drain plug isn't even the lowest point and probably holds about 2 quarts plus what's in the torque converter that won't drain out. Crap design.

Moral of the story here is;- Proper regular servicing. And as soon as any unusual behaviour occurs, get it checked out ASAP. Things go down hill very quickly when things don't work as they should.

 

I have learnt something additional which very likely explains everything.
I made the assumption that my transmission had been previously rebuilt to factory condition. Certainly has a replacement torque converter and the date printed on the valve body is 052907.
But what I didn't notice and didn't even think to look for is that it had already had a Transgo shift kit installed in it. And then I merrily go and install a Superior kit in it. Both kits achieve much the same thing, in particular, better more reliable control of line pressure.
But the design approach and method is slightly different and I don't think compatible. The Superior has a very nicely made sleeve without any holes along its sides. Whereas the Transgo sleeve has side holes towards one end and corresponding holes are drilled in the valve body and a hole in the VB plate is blocked. I think what this means is that although the primary pressure is the same, what happens to the excess volume is different. Probably resulting in low lube flow somewhere or less fluid available for the EPC valve. Something like that.

I'm pleased to finally find a cause of the problem. And I've certainly learnt a lot!

Something else many may not be aware of is, this transmission is supposed to have a temperature controlled valve that will hold some of the fluid in the side pan when it is hot. The idea being that it won't froth up the oil so much when hot.
But this means you need to be checking the fluid level when it is actually cold. Just after start-up. And it really needs to be at the top of the "cold" cross-hatched area on the dipstick to allow for the drop when it heats up. Yes, all back to front from what you would expect.

 

Well, I've had the whole front sub-assembly out, torn apart and the transmission on the bench, torn apart and a full rebuild kit put through it. Only cost $290 in parts including shipping to Australia. Also included is the ATSG service/rebuild manual which is well worth getting if you're about to undertake a transmission rebuild.
The direct/forward drum breaking is a common failure (due to runaway line pressure) but mine was fine. No cracks or anything. Everything else was re-usable too fortunately.
To get the various clearances within spec I had to swap some retaining clips and remove a wavy washer and install an extra clutch plate in the forward clutch. Somewhat unorthodox I suppose.
Eventually got the whole thing all back together. Fired up straightaway surprisingly. Topped up fluids. Can't stress enough about ensuring the transmission is at the correct level.
Being the hot day it was I turned the A/C on before getting in and going for a test drive. A few seconds later the engine dies? Restarts fine, and if I keep a few revs up it'll recover. Long story short I'd missed bolting an earth wire on and turning the A/C on which was now trying to earth via the ECU. Which was shutting it down every 8 seconds. Lucky to not have fried anything! So with that fixed it all works fine.



Now it's blown a top radiator hose. They weren't in the best shape. Should have ordered new ones at the same time as everything else. Hindsight is a marvellous thing eh?

 

That's just like losing the common(earth) wire on your home electrical service. It'll use the path on your cable service's common(earth) and melt something. My sister had this happen a few years ago.

 

Good to hear it works once again. I just re-read the whole series of posts, including my own, and came up with one question.
Could the installation of the second 'kit' have caused the pressure to fall of inappropriately, leading to the clutch plates burning up? You mentioned a sleeve with holes and one without. Could they interfere with each other, and mess up?
I read there were a lot of parts that got re-designed as experience with the CD4E in the trio grew. The ATSG makes another manual, for some transmissions anyway, listing all the upgraded parts available, and the specific models they fit. I have not had the pleasure yet of working on mine, but it has about half the miles yours has.
When I changed the fluid, I drained it cold, and got a full 6 quarts into the drain pan. Luckily it held that much, as I was expecting only 4 to drain. I figured the temperature operated valve would be open when cold, so I should get more drainage. I let it drain for quite a while before replacing the plug and refilling. It may not have 'flushed' out any impurities that settle when the fluid is undisturbed, but it allowed me to change a higher percentage of the fluid.
I have noticed some similar shift 'patterns', or, actually, non-patterns. Sometimes it will stay in lower gears at a given speed, and then other times will seem to want to upshift to OD at every occasion. I noticed because the tachometer and speedometer don't seem to jive all the time. Going down the road at 45mph, I'd expect OD and TC lockup. Sometimes it does and sometimes it doesn't. No pattern I can discern. It still shifts nicely, without flare, so I'm not too worried about slipping clutches or bands. Maybe it needs a kit?
tom

 

Thanks Tom. Yes I definitely think there is potential for problems if you were to mix up the two kits.

Because the Transgo kit requires some extra holes drilled into the actually valve body which mine has, I had to revert back to the Transgo kit. The plates between the valve body, accumulator body and bottom plate have each got three holes slightly enlarged as per the Superior kit instructions, but so far it doesn't seem to matter. Time may tell, but it's fingers crossed.

Superior is in the process of revising their kit instructions, ensuring customers/fitters check first for any existing kits before installing a kit.

I think most decent and reputable transmission repair shops will install a kit as part of any rebuild. The ones I've talked to use the Transgo one. The easiest way to tell if your transmission has one of these is to see if a large washer has been installed between the retaining circlip and cap on the servo on the underside of the transmission. If it's there, you've already got the Transgo kit installed.

Ultimately I'll never be sure if it were the mix up in kits or possibly just too low a fluid level caused my failure.
I'd been driving several short trips between installing the kit and going on the longer trip. Trips not long enough to get things hot enough for that "temperature sensitive valve" to close. Then when it did get hot enough and closed, maybe there wasn't enough fluid to maintain pressure?
Hence me stressing the point about correct fluid levels.
From an empty/dry system after the rebuild it was surprising how long and how much it took to get up to the right level. Keeping checking!!

As for this so called temperature valve, it is very simply a spring loaded flap. Not like a cooling system thermostat. I can't see how it can work with any degree of accuracy at all. The springs are held in place by those little washers that can only be pressed on one way and bight in when pulled the other way. They are on plastic pins with nothing to stop them being pushed on too far either. There's no specs for checking anything and you would need to take care not to push them on any further than they are.