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Guys, i know theres a few threads going on, but the one didnt have the "DIY" engine holder strap in it. I think DUCK FAN has the original thread about removal/install, but was hoping for the metal strap pic as well, so i can refer to 1 thread for guidance, this being the one. If you dont mind, post up the thread/pics, cause it will sure help out. Gonna install it tomorrow, damn pump been sitting for 6months +.
Reason being, is once motor/oil is warmed up, at idle, i get NO reading on my oil pressure gauge, which is located inline with my oil bypass system (Springer / Wood-n-things) design, pre-filter psi reading. When run'n, gauge tops, warm oil, at 30-35psi..
i have noticed a lot of you guys replacing the LPOP, is there a certain life expectancy
with the stock ones or are these melling ones just a better pump and replacing more a preventative measure, or do they give better oil pressure than a operational stock one.
This is the tool Lightning owners usually get whenever they purchase a lower pulley setup.
One end of this strap attaches to the torque convertor bolt with the other end attaching to the trans bellhousing inspection plate bolt.
In taking the pictures to post here, it dawned on me you can just use a box end wrench to achieve the same results.
Remove the bellhousing inspection cover. Using a breaker bar and socket, rotate the engine via the crank bolt until you can access one of the torque convertor bolts. Put a box end wrench vertically on a convertor bolt.
Re-install one of the trans bellhousing inspection bolts (just a few turns, not all the way) and rotate the engine again with the breaker bar until the wrench makes contact with the bolt. Snug it down on the wrench and then with the engine locked in place, you can break the crank nut loose.
Rotate the breaker bar counter-clockwise to remove the nut. It's a standard threaded bolt, righty-tighty, lefty-loosy.
Or just get a piece of flat stock metal, drill the holes, bend to fit, and you got a trans lock device!
Stewart
From Pete's thread. Is this what you were asking for?
Enforcer, honestly bud, have no clue. Got mine for 60 buks since i had the $20.00 credit at Autozone (zone points.. ).
Stuart, ur the man, dude...thanks bro.!!! Never was a fan of the, breaker bar attached to bolt, and wedged between frame, to bump start motor, to snap bolt loose...trick.
Damn, after re-readingthe post from Stuart, i see that the metal strap is for an auto trans..
Got a question thuogh, the strap is for the motor not to move, but if trans is set to "P", how would it move anyhow? Also, mine being a manual, if i throw her in any gear, wouldnt that lock up the motor as well, so i can remove/install the h/b bolt? Buddys' roll'n over to help out, should be starting in about 2hrs...
I think next time I do it I might just take out the radiator and have enough room to hit it with the air wrench. Just drain the coolant in a clean 5 gallon bucket and reuse. The bolt on my Excursion was loose enough to take off by hand anyway haha. I used red loctite when I put it back on.
I think on a 6sp. if it's in gear the truck will try to move. Set the brake and chock the wheels really good and you might be in luck.
I just did my Melling LPOP and I just put vice grips on the flexplate. I pulled off the inspection cover and put one set on each side so they are tight to the bell housing and it worked perfect. The motor didn't turn at all.
Here's a few pics of mine.
I removed fan and shroud and still no room for an impact unless you have a small impact. The standard 1/2" impact fits but if you start loosening the bolt the impact will jam right into your radiator.
damn...so either i figure out how to lock the motor, or remove the radiator, to get impact in...this sux. What about small impact sockets ,and not the deep sockets?
damn...so either i figure out how to lock the motor, or remove the radiator, to get impact in...this sux. What about small impact sockets ,and not the deep sockets?