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Anyway of removingthat "shield" to expose the flywheel and then using something there to wedge it, from turning? Shield between trans and motor.
Yes remove the shield and clamp vice grips on the large gear that the starter uses to spin the motor. Put them on so they are wedged tight against the bell housing. Make sure there on tight.
Got-ur done, guys. Not a bad job at all. Worst part was find ing the correct bolt, but ACE came through. Think it was a m8-70 with a 2.00 pitch thread.
Was able to put truck in gear, install the 11/16 deep impact socket, and a breaker ball, and walah, snapped ur loose. Same with install, i just pulled til i felt truck nudge forward.
Alright, few days of cruising with the new LPOP, and not sure what i should've anticipated. Was hoping the oil pressure gauge would be different, but at idle, still around 2-5psi.. I'm thinking its placement. Located pre-filter of the oil by-pass system. Any of you think thats why i'm not seeing higher psi numbers at idle? When run'n though, goes to 40-ish, then once levels out on freeway, cruising speeds, sits at 35-ish psi.
24psi with nose down, in driveway, idling..cold. Moved her into street, mostly level, and after a few minutes of warming up, back to 5psi-ish. I'll try it later today/tomorrow morning with nose higher, see if same reading
LOL....i believe you CAN get to it, but i lucked out. Was able to use a breaker bar, put 6spd in gear, chaulk the wheels, and turn. Snapped ur right off. IF/I have small impact sockets, then YES, i there was enough room for my 1/2in impact, to back-up enough, with fan/shroud removed. Only to i'd say, 1 complete turn, then the rest of bolt could be removed by hand.
I think the h/b sits perfect in a location, that it would bind up ANY/ALL swivel/wobbly sockets, you through at it.
Ya, it was a real "pucker", just attempting it, but the job was far easier then i'd imagine. Having the h/b pulley in my arsenal was a good thing. One less trip to auto store. The balancer for me, didnt "pop" right off, but rather just cruised and took its time, sliding from the crank. With puller still attached, and the bottom rad hose in place, no way can the 2 be "finnessed" from down under, must take it to/out the top. I got lucky for my LPOP, a quick but gentle pry on 1 end of it, and then i was able to grab and pull forward, removing it.
Think the pita part of job, was hiking 10 miles to Ace, and matching bolt up. I got one 1in longer then factory, and 4 fender washers to go with it. The h/b takes a while to get "sucked" onto the crank, enough so, for the factory bolt then, to take over.