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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 01:28 AM
  #16  
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Make sure its tuned right, then Take it out and give it hell......that's how you make it worth the money you put in it. Dyno's are over rated, lol.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 07:40 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by HIO Silver
Waitaminute..... you ran the rig on a chassis dyno, right? Those results can vary widely from dyno to dyno PLUS... that's rear wheel horsepower. The numbers you hear from people may result from an engine dyno or a chassis dyno so it needs to be an apples to apples comparison.

An engine dyno does not experience parasitic driveline losses like a chassis dyno. For example, an auto tranny is inherently less efficient than a manual transmission which transfers more HP to the rear wheels. Using the rule of thumb of 20 to 25 percent for parasitic losses, your estimate of 350 is in the ballpark for gross HP at the crank. An 380 ft.lbs. at the rear wheels is also decent.

The RPM is only 4700? That's low if, as I am assuming, it has a higher lift cam. However, ya might have found the line between lift/duration and how much the stock heads can handle.
Let's also not forget he is running through a transfer case as well.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 08:49 AM
  #18  
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hey neighbor , shoot me your exact engine specs , i checked your profile and you have no cam number listed and no valve sizes etc .
i will run your set up on desktop dyno5
who did the work ? AV bumper ? or ?
your rear wheel numbers don't look bad figuring 15% loss for driveline
 
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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 02:57 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by MIKES 68 F100
72 HIGHBOY
hey neighbor , shoot me your exact engine specs , i checked your profile and you have no cam number listed and no valve sizes etc .
i will run your set up on desktop dyno5
who did the work ? AV bumper ? or ?
your rear wheel numbers don't look bad figuring 15% loss for driveline
Hey, as soon as i know, ill let you know. A place called Quality Engine Rebuilding in Apple Valley CA did the work. They were inexperienced in this dept as far as performance engines, but they told me they could do it and they had a good rep around the base. SO i went with them. Bad idea. Anyway, i have it now, all i can do is deal with it.

The shop i had rebuild it didnt give me the total specs on my engine This is also why i cant tell anyone the exact comp ratio or exactly how the heads were ported. This is the problem im running into now. I need to pull the engine apart and do all the measurements myself. Bad timing right now because im trying to move.

How far from Antelope is Antelope Valley? It looks like you have almost the same engine mods i do, there is a place here that will give you 3 runs on the chassis dyno for $75 and they are friends of mine. Let me know if you want to see what youre getting.

Oh and the engine rebuild alone cost me around $7k, the interior brand new was like $4.5k. Just FYI
 
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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 03:01 PM
  #20  
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There is also a guy here in Roseville that is really good with the FE engine. I may end up taking it to him and seeing if he can sort this out. We called him yesterday and told him what was up and even he was surprised at the results. I will let yall know what his name is and his shop too so if anyone else has questions you can give him a ring. He does all the big engine rebuilds for the shop that i frequent so he is really good and very knowledgeable. He also has an FE in his race car...
 
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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 03:11 PM
  #21  
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I am in Palmdale west side . engine builder should be able to give you specs on cam .
popping before 5k sounds like a problem that needs fixing first . for $7k you should have a bad *** motor . i built mine in my garage for $3k
 
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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 03:12 PM
  #22  
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hmm dyno run , have to think about that one , my engine still has under 1k miles on it since build .
thanks
 
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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 03:15 PM
  #23  
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opps (my bad ) guess we are not neighbors ,
didn't know there was an Antelope CA ... know now
thought you meant Antelope valley , aka Palmdale,Lancaster
 
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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 10:21 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by MIKES 68 F100
opps (my bad ) guess we are not neighbors ,
didn't know there was an Antelope CA ... know now
thought you meant Antelope valley , aka Palmdale,Lancaster
Well, maybe i should change it to Sacramento lol, thats where im from. Mine has about 1500 miles on it. Yeah, it should be alot better than it is, thats for sure.
My cam is a comp cams high energy, grind 268H 33-224-3.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 11:06 PM
  #25  
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I think the only way im going to get the specs for this engine is to pull it apart and measure it. The shop that rebuilt it is being very unhelpful in finding things out. I guess ill start on that tomorrow although honestly i dont want to put any more time or effort into this thing.
Anyone want to buy my truck? lol!!!!!!!
 
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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 11:27 PM
  #26  
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Like I said, I think your numbers are fine. I recommend ya do some research on chassis dynos vs engine dynos to be informed of the differences.

Step away from the truck and take a few days to think about other things. It sounds like you're really discouraged but let it wear off for a bit until you can come back with a clearer head

Personally, I wouldn't bother pulling the motor apart just to find out what the heck your machine shop did... all that matters now is that machine shop/builder stands by his work. If something goes awry, then it is his job to figure out what the heck went wrong with his workmanship.

Enjoy your rig.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 11:56 PM
  #27  
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x2, add 20% to your numbers and look at it again.

That said, the shop should be able to tell you exactly what they did, imo....good luck with it.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2012 | 12:21 AM
  #28  
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I appreciate it fellas, i do, but the shop wont even get back to me and the specs are probably long lost. The shop that built it is 7-8 hours south of where i live now.
I did however find some paperwork and do some clever deducing. I found a compression ratio calculator online and put in all the values it asked for to the best of my educated knowledge. Ill lay them out so you all can confirm. Here it is:
--Static comp ratio first:
Cyl Bore : 4.080in
Stroke : 3.78in
Compressed head gasket thickness : .041in
Head Gasket bore diameter : 4.40in
Combustion chamber CC's : 72*
Piston Dome Volume : 10cc's
Piston Deck Clearance : .015*
*Estimated to the best of my knowledge and research.
*********9.486:1*************
--Dynamic Comp Ratio:
Rod length: 6.49in
Intake valve closes ABDC : 60 degrees
*********7.8:1**************

Oh and for fun i threw in Dynamic CR @ 6psi too; 11.1:1 DCR - This doesnt matter tho as i have no SC or Turbo on he truck.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2012 | 07:54 AM
  #29  
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elgemcdlf
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Originally Posted by 72Highboy4x4
Well, maybe i should change it to Sacramento lol, thats where im from. Mine has about 1500 miles on it. Yeah, it should be alot better than it is, thats for sure.
My cam is a comp cams high energy, grind 268H 33-224-3.
Here is the start to your problem. Your cam is a 1500-5500 rpm range. Your manifold is idle-5500. They don't go together. You would do better swapping out the manifold for a Performer RPM manifold (1500-6500) yet they still wouldn't match quite right. While more work, buying the cam that Edelbrock designed to go with the manifold. You also have a manifold designed for torque not hp. I am betting on mismatched parts along with proper tuning. Just proper tuning will do wonders.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2012 | 09:46 AM
  #30  
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you have to add in your not revving your motor up all the way dropping off early will cost you some HP .
get her dialed in and i think you'll be happy .
 
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