DC power altenator. Inputs/
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2012
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-Added 3 more grounds in various parts of engine bay(car audio background)
-Cleaned all the oem grounding points
-passenger side relay thing is new and all connectors were cleaned w/ sandpaper dremel
-GRP connectors are cleaned all four
-OEM alternator charge wire cleaned.
-Positive and Negative batts have been replaced and cleaned.
-All connection has dialectic grease.
which ones did i forget?
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,799
Likes: 103
From: Ashland City, TN
-Added 3 more grounds in various parts of engine bay(car audio background)
-Cleaned all the oem grounding points
-passenger side relay thing is new and all connectors were cleaned w/ sandpaper dremel
-GRP connectors are cleaned all four
-OEM alternator charge wire cleaned.
-Positive and Negative batts have been replaced and cleaned.
-All connection has dialectic grease.
which ones did i forget?
-Cleaned all the oem grounding points
-passenger side relay thing is new and all connectors were cleaned w/ sandpaper dremel
-GRP connectors are cleaned all four
-OEM alternator charge wire cleaned.
-Positive and Negative batts have been replaced and cleaned.
-All connection has dialectic grease.
which ones did i forget?
There are 2 connections on the block as well, be sure to check those.
They tend to get pimped with oil.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,195
Likes: 6
From: Medford Oregon
Sounds like a bad alternator. What yours is doing is what mine did and I replaced it with stock. Once GPR is off I can idle with air, headlights, etc .. ON and still maintain 14.5 volts. The big wire from the alternator to the fender solenoid has fuse links in it and they may be flaky. You could temporary connect another big wire from the alternator output to the fender solenoid to verify.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,799
Likes: 103
From: Ashland City, TN
Sounds like a bad alternator. What yours is doing is what mine did and I replaced it with stock. Once GPR is off I can idle with air, headlights, etc .. ON and still maintain 14.5 volts. The big wire from the alternator to the fender solenoid has fuse links in it and they may be flaky. You could temporary connect another big wire from the alternator output to the fender solenoid to verify.
If it got over voltaged it could be damaged.
only way I know to test them besides bypassing them is to bend them to see if they are really flexible or if they make crunchy feels and sounds.
They wont be really flexable if they are bad. They generally are more flexible than wire as well.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,195
Likes: 6
From: Medford Oregon
Below copied from another site. Links should be close to the fender solenoid alternator wire. Probably need to remove some wire loom to find it. We should have 12 GA, Gray fuse links. doesn't hurt to look ...
Fusible links are short lengths of wire that are smaller in diameter than the wires they are protecting. Fusible link wire is covered with a special thick, non-flammable insulation. An overload condition causes the insulation to blister. If the overload condition continues, the wire link will melt. To check a fusible link, look for blistered insulation. If the insulation is okay, pull lightly on the wire; if the fusible link stretches, the wire has melted.
When replacing fusible links, first cut the protected wire where it is connected to the fusible link. Then, tightly crimp or solder the new link to the protected wire.
Fusible links are often identified by color coding of the insulation, as shown here:
20 GA Blue
18 GA Brown or Red
16 GA Black or Orange
14 GA Green
12 GA Gray
You should be able to get fusible link wire at about any auto parts store, although I've never tried.
Fusible links are short lengths of wire that are smaller in diameter than the wires they are protecting. Fusible link wire is covered with a special thick, non-flammable insulation. An overload condition causes the insulation to blister. If the overload condition continues, the wire link will melt. To check a fusible link, look for blistered insulation. If the insulation is okay, pull lightly on the wire; if the fusible link stretches, the wire has melted.
When replacing fusible links, first cut the protected wire where it is connected to the fusible link. Then, tightly crimp or solder the new link to the protected wire.
Fusible links are often identified by color coding of the insulation, as shown here:
20 GA Blue
18 GA Brown or Red
16 GA Black or Orange
14 GA Green
12 GA Gray
You should be able to get fusible link wire at about any auto parts store, although I've never tried.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
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U all know this is an aftermarket DCPower Inc. aftermarket high power alternator right?
Found the link and its nice and flexible w/ no cracking. At this point, im thinking its just a weak alternator or i need a higher amperage unit?
Would adding another charge cable from the alt to the batt help besides the three that's on it already?
current charge setup:
1-oem charger cable from alternator to the thing on the fender.
2-thing on the fender to battery
3-charge cable from alt to battery
4-another biger charge cable from alt to battery
EDIT:
i was just outside taking a reading, air temp about 65.
The pair of battery is holding at 12.6 with out lights on, 12.5 w/ lights. The alternator is putting out 13.9-14.1 after 10+ minutes of idle. If the headlights are turned on, the voltage moves between 13.5v - 14.0v erratic? This alternator at no time reaches 14.4v at idle. I have tested my other two vehicle at idle and they tested 14.3v(1988 honda CRX oem alt.) 14.5v (99 mercedes s420 oem alt.)
Found the link and its nice and flexible w/ no cracking. At this point, im thinking its just a weak alternator or i need a higher amperage unit?
Would adding another charge cable from the alt to the batt help besides the three that's on it already?
current charge setup:
1-oem charger cable from alternator to the thing on the fender.
2-thing on the fender to battery
3-charge cable from alt to battery
4-another biger charge cable from alt to battery
EDIT:
i was just outside taking a reading, air temp about 65.
The pair of battery is holding at 12.6 with out lights on, 12.5 w/ lights. The alternator is putting out 13.9-14.1 after 10+ minutes of idle. If the headlights are turned on, the voltage moves between 13.5v - 14.0v erratic? This alternator at no time reaches 14.4v at idle. I have tested my other two vehicle at idle and they tested 14.3v(1988 honda CRX oem alt.) 14.5v (99 mercedes s420 oem alt.)
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,195
Likes: 6
From: Medford Oregon
Best guess, probably just the alternator. Heck, a stock Motorcraft alternator should be more than sufficient. Read this old thread, especially post # 17 as it gives an excellent troubleshooting procedure checking out the alternator with a VOM ...
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...no-charge.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...no-charge.html
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2012
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video of test
It appears to be the alternator. Unit was tested under 130am OEM spec
DC Power Inc. Alternator failed. - YouTube
DC Power Inc. Alternator failed. - YouTube
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Freshman User
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Several more trips to the auto parts store after several email w/ Stan at DCPowerInc. The parts store should have not used the adapter PROVIDED by DCPowerInc. Don't know why? If it cam with the alternator for this application, should u not test it w/ the adapter?
this is the STOCK OF THE SHELF alternator.
(how to post pic?)
this is the STOCK OF THE SHELF alternator.
(how to post pic?)
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
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I have the new repaired unit installed for about three weeks. The alternator is working as should, 14.5v at idle and 14.7 driving. Stan at DC is somewhat difficult to deal with. The entire time, Stan blame the low power output of the alternator on my truck not have a 1/0 gauge charging cable. After many email and calls, seven trips to different auto part stores, Stan reluctantly issues the RMA. I guess the folks at DC don't think they build any defective alternator, most certainly not forth coming with accepting returns. I was very uncomfortable dealing w/ these folks, not like the folks at Edge Performance, Kt Performance, Riff Raff or Diesel O-ring. I will not be a returning customer to DC Engineering alternator.
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