Electrical Issues - Serious
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From: Who cares?
Electrical Issues - Serious
Starting problem, sounds like low battery power but the truck started.
While running there were no gauges, no gauge lights, no acceleration.
It had headlights, radio, overhead light. I have not seen this myself. My wife called and reported all this to me. I think it is one or both batteries have a problem. I can't tell if it's a computer issue due to poor power. The other day I thought it dragged when my daughter started it. Before I could stop her she shut it off so she could "see if it will start again." I ended up jumping it and it started right up. No idiot light for the alternator. When it was running the radio worked but the time display didn't until it had been running a while.
Any ideas?
While running there were no gauges, no gauge lights, no acceleration.
It had headlights, radio, overhead light. I have not seen this myself. My wife called and reported all this to me. I think it is one or both batteries have a problem. I can't tell if it's a computer issue due to poor power. The other day I thought it dragged when my daughter started it. Before I could stop her she shut it off so she could "see if it will start again." I ended up jumping it and it started right up. No idiot light for the alternator. When it was running the radio worked but the time display didn't until it had been running a while.
Any ideas?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,329
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From: IN
If it is a fuse and I can not remember the # but there is a wire that can and has on a lot of people in the steering column that gets cut and shorts out and pops the fuse you can replace the fuse and it will last for a little while then pop again.
Edit: usually when this happens the truck will stay running but once shut off will not start back up.
Edit: usually when this happens the truck will stay running but once shut off will not start back up.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
Double check the battery cable connections (both ends of the cables) for any corrosion or loose wires, then get your batteries load tested for free at your local auto parts store.
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From: Who cares?
Thanks everyone for your responses. It's fixed! I started with the batteries because I wanted to get to Wal Mart before it got late. Of course they were both bad. Got them replaced under warranty for free and put them in. Still no gauges. Went straight to fuse 45. Blown. Replaced and all is perfect with the world. The birds are singing (even at night). The air is clearer and I will win the lotto tonight. Ok, maybe the birds aren't singing.
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From: Who cares?
Just an update to this thread so others may find it informative.
Yes it was the OD switch wires which had rubbed bare and were able to hit the metal in the column intermittently causing the short and killing the fuse. To fix it:
1. Disconnect both batteries.
2. With the key in the run position, use a long thin punch and, through the hole in the bottom of the clam shell cover push the pin up and extract the key cylinder.
3. Remove the knee bolster (the big panel in front of the driver's knees).
4. Remove the upper half of the clam shell.
5. Disconnect the small wire coming from the shift lever. It has a keeper in a bracket near the shift lever that can be disconnected.
The damage to the wire will be right near that keeper. Fix as needed and put it all back.
With the number of problems about this in this forum I would hope that Ford rethinks that wire.
Yes it was the OD switch wires which had rubbed bare and were able to hit the metal in the column intermittently causing the short and killing the fuse. To fix it:
1. Disconnect both batteries.
2. With the key in the run position, use a long thin punch and, through the hole in the bottom of the clam shell cover push the pin up and extract the key cylinder.
3. Remove the knee bolster (the big panel in front of the driver's knees).
4. Remove the upper half of the clam shell.
5. Disconnect the small wire coming from the shift lever. It has a keeper in a bracket near the shift lever that can be disconnected.
The damage to the wire will be right near that keeper. Fix as needed and put it all back.
With the number of problems about this in this forum I would hope that Ford rethinks that wire.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 17,988
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From: La La Land
You can "re-think" that wire, too.
When I read about the number of problems this wire could create, I opened up the shroud around the steering column and looked at where the wire could chafe.
Used a bunch of Scotch 33+ (the best common electrical tape you can buy) to cover the potential short points. That was about four years ago, and have never had a problem.
I try to learn something from the misfortunes of our brothers, and a little P/M goes a long way.
Like the hydraulic pressure line too near the shock tower, or the bottom of the wire loom on the driver's valve cover.
Pop
When I read about the number of problems this wire could create, I opened up the shroud around the steering column and looked at where the wire could chafe.
Used a bunch of Scotch 33+ (the best common electrical tape you can buy) to cover the potential short points. That was about four years ago, and have never had a problem.
I try to learn something from the misfortunes of our brothers, and a little P/M goes a long way.
Like the hydraulic pressure line too near the shock tower, or the bottom of the wire loom on the driver's valve cover.
Pop
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