DC power altenator. Inputs/
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Freshman User
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DC power altenator. Inputs/
rated at 140A idle
190 driving
1996 f250:
batts r new w/ 12.9 standing voltage.
AC on
radio w/ one small amp w/ 20a fuse
driving lights w/ 15a fuse
Hid w/ 15a fuse
everything els is stock.
190 driving
1996 f250:
batts r new w/ 12.9 standing voltage.
AC on
radio w/ one small amp w/ 20a fuse
driving lights w/ 15a fuse
Hid w/ 15a fuse
everything els is stock.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 15,505
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From: Livoina,La
Yea everything looks fine to me.
If you are worried about the volt gauge sitting low for a couple minutes then jumping up to normal. Then that's normal.
The glow plugs are on for up to two mins. after start keeping the volts low. After they turn off the volts will go up
If you are worried about the volt gauge sitting low for a couple minutes then jumping up to normal. Then that's normal.
The glow plugs are on for up to two mins. after start keeping the volts low. After they turn off the volts will go up
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Freshman User
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Yeah, understand about the glow plug drain thing. But voltage stay low all day at idle until the truck is driven. Again, voltage also drops waiting at the lights.
Is this normal for high output alt?
Is this normal for high output alt?
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,417
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From: Braham MN
I would say yes. you had everything on, high beams, radio, fan, thats alot of power and no alternator is designed to put out full amps at idle speed.
Remember the gauge in the dash is a volt meter and the alternator is rated in amps, it might not put out 14.5 volts like some, but it will put out 190 amps @ 12 volts and keep everything that needs to run happy.
Diesel Rod
Remember the gauge in the dash is a volt meter and the alternator is rated in amps, it might not put out 14.5 volts like some, but it will put out 190 amps @ 12 volts and keep everything that needs to run happy.
Diesel Rod
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Maryland
check the voltage while idiling i had a perfectly good alternator that charged but had 13.1 volts at idle and was a lil screwy while driving turns out the voltage regulator was acting up mind you it was brand new i got my money back and got a ford alt it was cheaper for me saved me 20 bucks
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Stock alternator was doing the same thing. Spoke to the techs at DC and they said this would fix my idle voltage drop issue since im not running much more amperage than stock. The HID draws several more amps than oem in high beam, just actuators to flip up the beam blockers. Its not like LOW and High at the same time as halogens. The DC alt. sustained the load before when it was installed NEW. But after several months of summer heat, it has lower output.
I'm still at square one after $800 later in bat. and alt. upgrade. Oem alt. is about 100ish amp output? The additional 40amps should cover the spread wouldn't u think? Do i need a 200amp at idle atl.? After several weeks of driving, batteries are place on a Ctek charger to bring the voltage back up.
The voltage of the alternator w/ everything off is about 14.2-14.4. But when a load is applied, the voltage plummets, kinda like a weak battery that wont hold a charge.
If im mistaken w/ any info, please feel free to enlighten me .
I'm still at square one after $800 later in bat. and alt. upgrade. Oem alt. is about 100ish amp output? The additional 40amps should cover the spread wouldn't u think? Do i need a 200amp at idle atl.? After several weeks of driving, batteries are place on a Ctek charger to bring the voltage back up.
The voltage of the alternator w/ everything off is about 14.2-14.4. But when a load is applied, the voltage plummets, kinda like a weak battery that wont hold a charge.
If im mistaken w/ any info, please feel free to enlighten me .
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Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Maryland
oem alts are 130 amps and no alternator will put out full voltage at idle not even the huge amulance ones u might have a voltage regulator problem i have hids the same ones u have with the actuators and no dimming or anything occurs when i use all my power i also have an alpine amp to power my speakers and a lot of other doodads
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 3,420
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From: Maryland
it is part of the alternator the grey plug that plugs in the the alt thats the voltage regulator the voltage can be replaced but imo i would only go with a motorcraft one but your alt doent look like a motorcraft so i would call dc power and ask em whats up
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,195
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From: Medford Oregon
That's the voltage reading I get when glow plugs are on. Once off voltage jumps up to 14.5 volts at idle. Are you sure glow plug relay is turning off? Try disconnecting one of the small wires to the GPR and see if it makes a difference. If that does not correct the issue measure the field voltage to the alternator. With key on and truck not started do you see the battery light in the dash?
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I thought I may be having a GPR issue but it has been replaced w/ new OEM and the Stanco unit, same result.
The relay by the battery was also replaced w/ Ford OEM unit w/ no improvement to voltage.
The relay by the battery was also replaced w/ Ford OEM unit w/ no improvement to voltage.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Medford Oregon
Remove one of the small wires on the GPR to verify.
With key on and truck not started do you see the battery light in the dash? Alternator uses current through the bulb to supply the alternator field.
With key on and truck not started do you see the battery light in the dash? Alternator uses current through the bulb to supply the alternator field.
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Yes, batt indicator light is ON. Even if both are disconnected, the indicator is still on. Voltage on the firewall side is 11.9v other is .5volt. After several minutes, both smaller terminals are 12.5volts but one of the bigger post now has no voltage.