New class IV hitch install
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,823
Likes: 43
From: New York
New class IV hitch install
I just picked up a "new" (it's been hanging around, but unused) class IV Putnam hitch. For reference, it's part# CJ442-25010, or more often referenced as just 25010 I'm finding.
Putnam is no longer in business, so I can't call them for help, but I imagine most installations are similar. This hitch has a total of 6 contact points - 3 on each side (duh).
My primary question has to do with where to locate the hitch on the frame, from a front to back perspective. Should I grind off the rear-most factory rivets (the one that fastens the rear cross beam on each end), and then re-use that hole to do double duty via a bolt on each side? Or do I leave that in place and just drill three new holes on both sides?
Putnam is no longer in business, so I can't call them for help, but I imagine most installations are similar. This hitch has a total of 6 contact points - 3 on each side (duh).
My primary question has to do with where to locate the hitch on the frame, from a front to back perspective. Should I grind off the rear-most factory rivets (the one that fastens the rear cross beam on each end), and then re-use that hole to do double duty via a bolt on each side? Or do I leave that in place and just drill three new holes on both sides?
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 816
Likes: 2
From: Sandy Hook, CT
Usually (but not always) the part that goes over the rivets has a cut-out for them..hard to describe, but I'll post a picture of it for you later today. I would NOT grind down those rivets, though. Sometimes if you're working with a 'universal fit' type hitch you have to make a few mods like drilling new holes, etc. All in all it is not a hard install provided that you are working with the correct hitch for your vehicle. Give me a few hours & I'll post those pix!
Roger
Roger
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,786
Likes: 1,751
From: Kentucky
The Class IV Valley hitch I had on my last two '93 Lightnings and my recently sold 1992 F350 sounds very similar to the one you have. I ground off those rivets, drilled out the holes a bit then used it as a mount point. I always had plenty of clearance for the spare tire when placing the hitch in this location.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,823
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From: New York
Thanks for the feedback - looks like a "tie" vote so far! 
Some additional data... This is NOT one of those "fits-all" hitches, it is specific to the F-150 (also fits '72 - '96 Dodge trucks since they happen to have the same rail spacing).
At a minimum I'll need to drill four holes (two on each side), it's just a question of whether I drill a new one for the rear-most location or grind the rivets out and use the existing hole vacated by the rivet (as rla2005 has suggested immediately above).
As a general guide, I'm thinking that you want the hitch receiver to be about flush with the vertical plane of the bumper, yes? Or should I want it to be inboard a bit?
Some additional data... This is NOT one of those "fits-all" hitches, it is specific to the F-150 (also fits '72 - '96 Dodge trucks since they happen to have the same rail spacing).
At a minimum I'll need to drill four holes (two on each side), it's just a question of whether I drill a new one for the rear-most location or grind the rivets out and use the existing hole vacated by the rivet (as rla2005 has suggested immediately above).
As a general guide, I'm thinking that you want the hitch receiver to be about flush with the vertical plane of the bumper, yes? Or should I want it to be inboard a bit?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 3,955
Likes: 50
From: Mesa
I bought an unknown brand of receiver hitch off of craigslist that came off a 92 F250. I cleaned it up and gave it a coat of paint. It fit around the rivets perfectly. I had to drill 3 holes on each side because this truck did not have a hitch on it previously. I used 1/2" grade 8 hardware.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 2,000
Likes: 4
From: Nowthen, MN
You don't remove the rivets, the rearmost holes get drilled to the rear of the rivets. This should help:
Trailer Hitch Installation - 1996 Ford F150 Video | etrailer.com
Trailer Hitch Installation - 1996 Ford F150 Video | etrailer.com
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Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 76
From: Gilbert, PA
You don't remove the rivets, the rearmost holes get drilled to the rear of the rivets. This should help:
Trailer Hitch Installation - 1996 Ford F150 Video | etrailer.com
Trailer Hitch Installation - 1996 Ford F150 Video | etrailer.com
What he said.
That rivet holds the cross member in place. If it truly the RIGHT hitch for the truck, it will have cut outs to fit around the rivets
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,823
Likes: 43
From: New York
You don't remove the rivets, the rearmost holes get drilled to the rear of the rivets. This should help:
Trailer Hitch Installation - 1996 Ford F150 Video | etrailer.com
Trailer Hitch Installation - 1996 Ford F150 Video | etrailer.com
And indeed, my hitch looks identical to that one, so the instructions are spot on. Heck, the frame is even rusty just like mine! 
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