Again I'm sure this is like a 2 year old asking their parents questions. As I mentioned in another thread you almost have to stand up on the breaks to make this thing stop. When I opened the master cylinder the rear compartment was full but the front compartment was empty. Do you just fill the front compartment with break fluid or is this a symtom of something worse?

Thanks,
Joe

 

No... you MUST fix it. 'gotta figure out where the brake fluid went... it doesn't magically evaporate...

look at the backing plate at each wheel and the back of each tire. if any are wet and oily then you've found the source - likely a bad wheel cylinder. Replace it.

Refill the reservoir and the bleed the entire brake system... Um, you do have a repair manual, right?

 

I haven't gone to get one yet, I just got the truck Monday and never really have done anything mechanically. So will pick it up before I attempt anything like that

 

also after doing some reading it seems the front reservoir is for the back brakes, so is it safe to assume the issue is is probably in one of the rear 2 tires?

 

The passenger side front and rear wheels have goop on the back of them like the wheel cylinders are leaking. The drivers side front and rear look clean. Looks like Advance Auto parts have them for 21.99. I will definitely need someone who has done this before show me the ropes so time to beg a buddy.

 

Please do so. It'll answer alot of questions that you may have. They also have troubleshooting matrices for your consideration. The web (and YouTube) are really good sources for information so I hope your research skills are up to snuff. As always, take what you read on the web with a grain of salt and avoid citing a lone source unless it can be backed up by others or by deduction as fact.

Yep... front brakes to more of the stopping hence, more fluid needs to be pushed into them. The rears use the smaller reservoir.

Kudos to you for your desire to learn. These trucks are really simple to work on... plus parts tend to be plentiful and relatively inexpensive... except for them dang grill shells. Fortunate for you if yours is steel.. the aluminum ones sometimes dent as easy as a pop can.

Here are some common parts sources and most of them have free catalogs. That way, you can learn what the parts are called, their commonality and availability and the street retail prices:

Jeff's Bronco Graveyard
National Parts Depot:Ford Truck Parts & Accessories | 1948-1979
LMC Truck - Ford Truck Parts and Truck Accessories
MAC's Antique Auto Parts
Blue Oval Truck Parts
Vintage Ford truck parts for the F100,F150,F350 and Bronco by Dennis Carpenter Ford Restorations

RockAuto Auto & Truck Parts
Summit Racing
Shock Warehouse
Inline tube The brake plumbing experts
Benchworks Steering
Red-Head Steering Gears, Seattle WA
Borgeson Universal Steering Components

 

Thanks!!!! going to have to start a folder to keep all the the info in....anything I think is over my head I will get someone to stand over my shoulder and coach me!

 

Also, it doesn't hurt to ask for help.

If you check with your local chapter (you DID join, right?), you may find other members of your chapter that will travel to your location to help you wrench on your truck (or at least coach you while you wrench on it). Perhaps they can be enticed with things like beer & BBQ.

Brakes are a messy job - wear a dustmask! - but the mechanical part isn't particularly difficult. The part I hate is after the mechanical stuff is done; I dread bleeding out the system.

BTW, you will need to learn how to bleed your trucks brakes CORRECTLY, or else your proportioning valve won't work correctly. Setting the proportioning valve correctly will make your "BRAKES" dash light work correctly - it should come on when the key goes on, go off once the engine's running, and if it goes on while the engine's running, it means you have a problem in the brakes system (so check it out or get them serviced). If you don't get anything from your "BRAKES" light, check under the front of the truck to see if the wires are hanging - they are often disconnected from the proportioning valve IOT shut off the light (this often happens when brake mechanics don't know how to set the p-valve). If the wires are still connected to the valve, test the lightbulb itself.

The proportioning valve is on the brake line under the engine. The line runs cross-wise from one side of the truck to the other (wheel to wheel). The valve normally operates in the middle (or "off") position, and is pushed to either side when the hydraulic pressure on that side drops (which indicates some kind of failure). The hydraulic pressure that remains in the other half of the brakes system should (hopefully) be sufficient to allow you to stop. Once your BRAKES light is working like it should be, it is an important safety warning if it comes on.

 

I usually just go thru all four wheels while I'm at it. While replacing wheel cylinders, it's a perfect time to replace the stock bleeders with "speed bleeders". Cost you a few dollars more, but well worth it. When opened they will only allow brake fluid and air to be pushed out, no air will leak back in. Makes bleeding the brakes a whole lot easier and a one man operation. There are vacuum bleeders/pressure bleeders, each having their own aggravating issues.