Slip joint lubrication problem
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Oregon
Slip joint lubrication problem
I'm getting a "clunck" sometimes going from 2nd to 3rd gear. I want to lub. the slip joint on the drive line per the instructions I found here. A couple of questions: a head on one of the 8mm bolts on the rear is stripped, I can't get a wrench to grab it. How would get the thing out? The instructions say lower the drive line after removing the 4 bolts. Can I remove the 4 bolts from the front and get the slip joint disconnected?
I removed the four bolts on the front of the rear axle to check it out. The U joint seems pretty well seated and didn't drop down. Do you need to pry it loose with something and would I need to do the same if I can get the rear bolts out?
I guess more than a couple of questions
Thanks
2000 F250, 4x4, auto
I removed the four bolts on the front of the rear axle to check it out. The U joint seems pretty well seated and didn't drop down. Do you need to pry it loose with something and would I need to do the same if I can get the rear bolts out?
I guess more than a couple of questions
Thanks2000 F250, 4x4, auto
Last edited by 96DRW; Jul 24, 2012 at 08:03 PM. Reason: Add info
Senior User
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are you wanting to grease the drive shaft where the rubber boots are? if so you dont need to remove the drive shaft to do it. just loosen the clamps and get some grease in there and reseal it. thats what i did to mine and it quit clunking.
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https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...y-concern.html
From what I observed while mine was being worked on today it shouldn't take anything other than those 4 8mm bolts, some pliers to remove one ring of the rubber boot and then a hammer to knock the casings apart. Not sure how to get that bolt off short of smacking the next size smaller socket onto the stripped bolt which has worked for me on other bolts before.
Good luck.
From what I observed while mine was being worked on today it shouldn't take anything other than those 4 8mm bolts, some pliers to remove one ring of the rubber boot and then a hammer to knock the casings apart. Not sure how to get that bolt off short of smacking the next size smaller socket onto the stripped bolt which has worked for me on other bolts before.
Good luck.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Spanaway
It's a 12 point bolt and may not be striped but
you do need a 12 point socket. An Impact type may
give you more bite.
You do need some heat to break the thread lock
compound loose depend on what was last used.
It should be like blue Loctite then take a 12 point
socket and see if that helps you may have to tap it
on the head to get it to bite. If after you get it off
the head is really striped then replace it with the
same type and grade Don't go to the home store
they don't have the high grade ones you will need.
Sean
you do need a 12 point socket. An Impact type may
give you more bite.
You do need some heat to break the thread lock
compound loose depend on what was last used.
It should be like blue Loctite then take a 12 point
socket and see if that helps you may have to tap it
on the head to get it to bite. If after you get it off
the head is really striped then replace it with the
same type and grade Don't go to the home store
they don't have the high grade ones you will need.
Sean
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 287
Likes: 1
I undid the big boot clamp, removed the 4 8mm bolts on the front, yes it will take some prying to unseat the ujoint, but be careful and dont let the ujoint cup come off or you could be looking for needle bearings etc.
Once you have the front dropped, slide the front piece off, noting the orientation of it in relation to the shaft when you reassemble, cant go wrong, it only goes on one way but it'll help if you have an idea of which direction it needs to go, reassemble in reverse order
Once you have the front dropped, slide the front piece off, noting the orientation of it in relation to the shaft when you reassemble, cant go wrong, it only goes on one way but it'll help if you have an idea of which direction it needs to go, reassemble in reverse order
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Oregon
Thanks for the advice on this project. I'm going to try to get it done tonight. I'm taking the truck on a week long camping trip in a couple days so I need to be certain the truck is ready to roll. I like togobefastguy's idea about just slipping the boot back and getting some grease in there. When I get back and don't absolutely need the truck, I'll get things disconnected. Thanks again for the info.
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 287
Likes: 1
I'll just say, i don think you'll get grease where it needs to go without taking it apart. The hardest part is getting the clamp back on and secure
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Junior User
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From: Oregon
I agree gfl, the best way would be to get it disassembled. Can you clarify a couple of things for me? I'm not under the truck so I'll go from memory, from the rear axle going forward I have ujoint and 4 8mm bolts - grease boot (the slip joint is under that) - another joint with 8mm bolts - another axle that connects to the transfer case.
When you say "I undid the big boot clamp, removed the 4 8mm bolts on the front, yes it will take some prying to unseat the ujoint, but be careful and dont let the ujoint cup come off or you could be looking for needle bearings etc." What is the big boot clamp? are they the two clamps that hold the grease boot in place? It looks like I should just have to remove the 4 8mm in front of the grease boot to get the axle to drop. Is there another step?
thanks
When you say "I undid the big boot clamp, removed the 4 8mm bolts on the front, yes it will take some prying to unseat the ujoint, but be careful and dont let the ujoint cup come off or you could be looking for needle bearings etc." What is the big boot clamp? are they the two clamps that hold the grease boot in place? It looks like I should just have to remove the 4 8mm in front of the grease boot to get the axle to drop. Is there another step?
thanks
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Tuned
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 287
Likes: 1
Mines had a carrier bearing in front of the joint that i pulled, i removed the boot clamp (just one of the 2)first as it was easier with the shaft still mounted and hanging, they're special clamps that are a bit of a pia to work with, but it can be done. You'll have to crawl under to see what i mean. Then on mine, I pulled the front ujoint behind the carrier (4 8mm bolts) pried the joint from the yoke to get it dropped, the splines you're neeidng to grease will be apparent when you pull the front section of the shaft off. I left the rear joint attatched on mine.
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Oregon
gfl - I have the same drive shaft set-up. Do you have to remove the two bolts on the center carrier mount to get the two drive shafts to separate? When I removed the 4 8mm on the flange to the u joint directly behind the carrier mount, it seemed like the front of the rear axle should drop down. I gently poked around and pried a bit but it seemed seated into the mating flange pretty good. I've never messed with u joints/axles and don't want to start beating the heck out of stuff.
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 287
Likes: 1
gfl - I have the same drive shaft set-up. Do you have to remove the two bolts on the center carrier mount to get the two drive shafts to separate? When I removed the 4 8mm on the flange to the u joint directly behind the carrier mount, it seemed like the front of the rear axle should drop down. I gently poked around and pried a bit but it seemed seated into the mating flange pretty good. I've never messed with u joints/axles and don't want to start beating the heck out of stuff.
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 287
Likes: 1
one of the splines on mine is an odd double size, only allowing it to go on one way