Finally tracked down a complete 300 motor assembly in tallahassee. drove down a couple weeks ago to buy it. the high school kid that posted it on craigslist swore it was running when the motor was pulled from a late 70s f series. however, it had sat in a tire behind his dad's shop for a while without an intake, exhaust or anything covering the u-turn side of the head. as a result, there was standing water in a couple of the cylinders. couldn't turn the motor all the way over using a rachet. needless to say i still bought it, but basically for pennies compared to what he was asking for it. i got around to tearing it down last week. sure enough the #2 and #5 were pretty ugly under the head. i was able to pull the rest of it apart, then sprayed the problem children down with pb blaster. next day, cleaned it all out, got rid of almost all of it with the blaster and some extra fine steel wool. took the block and head down to a place called charlie's in dothan. for those of you in south alabama, his shop is top notch. there's folks on the west coast that send him their racing components and get work done. anyhow, the head checked out ok after a dip and flux, and block seems alright, but they tell me the only way they can garantee the cylinders will clean up well is to bore it 60 over. i know there are fellas out there that have done this to include Colonel Flashman's 300 hp I6 in his mercury pickup on youtube...but is it adviseable? what's the service limit? would it depend on the piston i plan on running? what are the other variables? i've pretty much decided on the components i plan on using, just price shopping right now. want to take my time, do my homework, try not to spend too much $$$ and do it right the first time. any and all suggestions are welcome!

 

A lot of the "gurus" on Fordsix say not to go .060. The only way you can really know is to sonic test and if it has no core shift you should be just fine at .060. If your engine guy is the whiz you say, he should have the ability to do that, and probably should have already talked to you about it. Different people have different opinions but on a slightly warmed up street engine you would want a wall thickness at not much less than .180 on the thrust side...from what I've read. I think maybe .150 on the other side of the cylinder.
Or you can go .050 and use STD FE pistons. 390 IIRC, I have a set on the shelf, I'll have to go run the numbers to be sure.

 

so if i choose to go with charlie's recommendations, where will the overbore put me as far as wall thickness?
i've heard of fellas using SBC pistons, 351W pistons, and some frmo 390s as well. all depending on what you're shooting for, con rod manufacturer along with mods i.e. bushed etc.
myself, i'm thinking of going with the SBC pistons...there's TONS of them out there. the stocker con rods are in good shape and i plan on having them balanced, polished and shot peened. I'm wanting to put this motor (carb'd btw) in a DD f100...and it'll be a bit of a sleeper. don't plan on hitting the track or anything like that. just something fun that has some cojones and thats dependable.

 

I don't think SBC pistons have the right compression height but there are a few 351W slugs that would work well. I believe pistons from a 360 will work too?

If you're having the block decked a set of hypereutectic 300 pistons might be the way to go. I've been looking at 351 pistons for my build and it's can be tough to find one with the right amount of dish to keep the cr at a streetworthy number with the piston @.000-.001" below deck.

Blocks are so cheap and plentiful I wouldn't take a chance on boring too much. Better safe than sorry.

 

If the block is otherwise good, check on having the bores sleeved.

 

yeah i was thinking that too harte. i couldn't help but wonder how the 300 flashman built up is running these days? especially if it was built at the end of 2004. just about any motor can be built to put out good hp/tq numbers, but for how long is the question. even if it was 50 over...would i really want to risk it? i'm thinking not. wouldn't have any room for fudge factor later on down the road for another rebuild. i'll give charlie a buzz tomorrow and talk about options, particularly sleeves. thanks for the suggestions fellas. really helps solidify a lot of things rolling around in my head lol. i'll post up after the phone call.

 

Why not just find a better block?

 

folks dont let motors like these go around here. they'll let em sit in their barn or garage for years and nver touch them. i've found numerous motors under hoods of trucks that havent left their backyard for lord knows how long, but they refuse to sell it. dont really want to take my chances on an ebay block either. never know what you're gonna get.

 

got off the phone with charlie. they can sleeve it, but i could find another block in far better shape (although it could take another 6 months to a year) for what i'd end up paying for a sleeve job on it. like i said, i want it to be done right the first time...so no sense in gambling with stuff like that. if anyone has a block sitting around in decent shape...i'm all ears! all is not lost though, the head is still in great shape plus i got some solid connecting rods and all the valve cover, rod cover, and oil pan...all in good shape, no rust, cracks, or dings. that alone was worth what i paid for the whole deal. so i'm moving forward with headwork i.e. p & p, oversized SI valves, 3 angle valve job and backcut, stud bosses ran down and threaded for 7/16 ARP studs, etc.

 

Dunno where you are but this site has cataloged parts form wrecking yards - sortable by zip code.

Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market

 

I'm not sure what the wall thickness is on a 300, only a sonic test can tell for sure. But it seems like .060 is safe if there isn't any core shift. I know .060 stock builds that ran out fine. I might build up one with the 390 pistons and won't be a bit afraid to go .050. I have all the stuff to do it. It's been a while since all that stuff fell in my lap and I don't remember the numbers on the 390 pistons but they are pushing the limit for compression ratio on regular gas.
Those engines are cheap around here. I wouldn't have to keep my ear to the ground long to have a running one for free. I have one in an 80 you could have if you were here to pull it out.

 

"here" being where billy? definitely peaked my interest lol.

 

sorry, I didn't realize my location doesn't show. I live in Western South Dakota, Northern tip of the Black Hills.

 

nice...that area is gorgeous. i'm originally from northwestern montana...but stuck in sweltering southern alabama for uncle sam.

 

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