I got the pins out. The driver's side was a beast. I ground off the mushroomed metal hold the top disc and started hammering the pin down. I had to apply generous amounts of heat to the axle so the pin would slide out. I was using a BFH and punch to drive it out until my youngest, well he's 19 but he's still my youngest, came up the brilliant idea of using my air hammer gun with the pointed bit. I forgot I had it. Still had to appy heat but it was a heck of lot easier than using the BFH and punch. I finally got it out after working on it for about 45 minutes. On the passenger side I ground the top off, touched with the air hammer and it fell right out.

Sure is nice to have a lift, not trying to brag but man, after 40 years of working with a floor jack and stands, half of those years on a gravel drive, my knees and back thank me every time I use it.



My neighbor called me about something tonight, I mentioned my king pin project and he volunteered the use of his king pin reamer kit and assistance in helping do it. He's done his own cars and trucks and is a machinist by trade so I trust him to do it correctly plus the price it right, free. I'll be ordering the parts tonight.

 

Question, Bob. Would those pins or spindle bolts come out the top? If so, a little trick I learned from playing with old tractors where it is common to find strut rod bolts frozen. I learned to put pressure on the bolt from the bottom with a jack and then heat or vibration of the air hammer.

 

Ray,

In the shop manual is says to hammer them from the bottom. I started hammering from the bottom but it was a very awkward position to hammer from while trying to hold the punch in one hand and use the other hand to swing the hammer. I then remembered reading a suggestion in a post I found here that you can grind off the top and drive the pin down. I also have the truck on a 2 post lift. I was thinking of applying upward pressure using my port-a-power tool but I didn't think that would be too safe while the truck was on the lift. I'm still pretty new to the lift and I get a little nervous just hammering around a vehicle while it's up there, I didn't want to take a chance of pushing it off the lift with the port--power.

 

A little off topic, but I always check online for prices of parts I need.
I needed a waterpump for my Ford Explorer 5.0 engine today. I jumped on Autozone online and it was like $67 I don't have that much available in my checking account, so I thought I would look elsewhere. Places that I can use paypal instant payment. I have a little there for the truck project. I went to RockAuto and bought the pump for $37 and $8 shipping. So I was able to use paypal AND bought it cheaper than autozone! Nice!

 

Bob,

It's nice to have a neighbor like yours.

 

I hate going to the McParts places but like you they're in my budget but they rarely have any parts for my trucks and if they do it's a hassle dealing with their uncaring counter people who there were no automobiles before 1995.

I would rather go to NAPA but it always seems when I need a part, Saturday afternoon, Sunday or after 5pm on a weeknight, when NAPA is closed. I usually need the part right then because the vehicle has to be on the road the next day.

Rock is a good place, very reasonable prices on name brand parts. If you don't need a part for 4-5 days it's a great place to go.

I like Classic Haulers for more specific for our truck parts. I've bought from Mac's but have had problems, nothing major but the people at Classic Hauler seem to care more and they also give out Tootsie rolls with their orders. I had to go with Rock for the king pins because they were about $20 cheaper than anyone else.

Yes it is, only if he had a nice pool to cool off in too!

 

What size reamer would be required?

 

I think the Rock Auto site said they're .8175(?) wide. I would assume you used the size closest to the actual size of the pin. I've never done it but my neighbor just did his '33 Ford car so he's my expert. Like I said, he's a machinist, those guys do everything by the .0001 of an inch.

 

I've been removing kingpins from the top (Hammer down is always eaiser than hammering up) since back in the late 50's - My Dad said I could fit in the ww better than him - The top pin cap is just peened on - I hit it with a cold chisle and they pop right off - Some will darn neer drop out on their own and others have to go to the shop with the 85 ton press

 

Dick, I just hit the peened part with my angle grinder, same result.

I started by hitting up and said, "This ain't working, then switched to the top down. I think it might have been one of your posts that gave me the idea. Also, like you said, one, the the driver's side, was a bear. I had to apply heat even after I started using the air hammer. I finally got it out after about 45 minutes and wasn't looking forward to tackling the passenger's side. Ground the peened part off, hit it with the air hammer and it literally fell through in a second. Neither pin actually looked too bad though but they were worn.

It always seems the driver's side is hit worse by rust, be it mechanical parts or body parts. I've noticed this through the years I've been working on cars. My theory is the driver's side is exposed to more water and salt when parked on the side of the street than the passenger's side from cars passing by spraying water and even when driving down the road. Might not be the reason but that's one I came up with and I'm sticking to it!

 

The Trucks also turn in a wider circle to the right than when turning left so that would also cause more exposure.

 

Does it end up being an 'interference fit'?
I pressed the bushings in mine, and am taking them to the machine shop tomorrow, Just wondering what to tell them.

 

No, a "running fit". It won't hurt to be a little on the tight side, because the bushings will quickly have any machining ridges smoothed out, which will increase clearances. You want to be able to get grease into all areas. The guidance I was given was "able to be pushed thru with your thumb".

 

The spec is in the book - I think near the installation and not ib the rear spec list

 

A hint here to anyone driving any kind of pin through a hole. You need to support, in this case the axle, solidly against the cement floor. This proceedure is called "Bucking". Otherwise most of the force will go to deflect the axle instead of into the pin.

I drive interference fit assemblies on & off on many different machines and you would be suprised how effective bucking is. I have a stout mechanical jack I use just for this purpose. I don't like using hydraulic jacks because there is always a little compression inherent to them.

In body work you have to buck your work or your hammer blows will do little or no good. Where you cannot get a jack down to the ground, as in a horizontally situated pin, you need to buck it with a heavy piece of steel. I have several pieces of steel for this purpose. A sledge hammer will work as a bucking tool too.