after a short drive or even a long drive, when i shut it off or kill it with the clutch it will not restart. it seems to crank slower paced then if it was cool.

absolutely makes no attempt to fire or even sound like its going to fire.


when i let it cool for 30+ minutes it starts right up

could i be looking at a hot soak issue with an injector(s) staying open momentarily once the engine is shut off?

what ever it is it is getting worse, more worse then it has ever been. I replaced the tank fuel pump last fall, and did an intake gasket over the winter. I run premium 91 or 92 gasoline here


1989 bronco xlt 5.0 efi no cats, thrush muffler 5 speed mazda, 236,000 miles, very sloppy transfer case and rear end (1/2" movement)

 

How is your fuel mileage? Could be an ACT or ECT sensor "stuck cold" (a fault that will not necessarily show up in a KOEO/KOER test). This condition makes the truck seems to run REALLY well but will seriously tax your fuel economy.

Hot soak is not beyond the realm of possibility but usually after a few attempts the "soaked" cylinder will clear itself. The biggest difficulty is troubleshooting speed-density fuel injectors which are bank-fired rather than sequentially fired.

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post12022299

You have a TFI EEC-IV module and not the Duraspark module Bill speaks of but the principles still apply, and Ford was sued by the NHTSA over it.

Ford TFI Module National Class Settlement | The Center for Autosafety

It's something to investigate, most parts stores can test them.

 

i am getting spark, i put a spark tester between the coil and cap. but i am not certain if the spark is good enough (too bright outside to notice)

i went ahead and replaced the fuel pump relay with a new wells brand. the truck starts faster then before but probably not related to the issue of restart when hot.

yes, i get very poor fuel milage. i put 91 in it and still lucky to pull off 10-11 in normal driving conditions with my 5 speed.

what 2 sensors are those? if one is the sensor between 5-6 injectors i replaced that.

new oxygen sensor too

 

Not sure who you're talking to, but if you're talking to me about my two links in Post # 3 above, I'm referring to the ignition control module, not a sensor. Throwing parts at a problem *****-nilly can be expensive & frustrating.

 

now you are onto something! can i go to a ford dealership and demand a replacement piece?

can the unit be removed from the distributor and placed somewhere else? i've never actually removed it, never had a reason to.

that piece controls the firing of injectors? i guess it would be the culprit of a hot soak!

 

You'll have to read the specifics on that page about the lawsuit but I'm pretty sure the time has expired by this point for getting free replacements for those that have failed. They're still available from Ford, though... go to fordparts.com enter in your VIN and find the module it says you should have, then see where you can get it cheapest (sometimes dealers can be better than aftermarket suppliers - sometimes).

Remote-mount:

Remote Mount TFI Ignition Module
Ford TFI Ignition Control Modules - FSB Forums
McCully Racing Motors- We have exactly what your over-heated TFI Module Needs!

I would take the module to a parts store and have it tested, don't guess at stuff but have verifiable evidence of a problem. There is still the pickup module in the distributor that could be having a problem, too, and it's generally good practice to replace both items together as a set.

 

looks like an easy enough mod.

so basically the instructions are to get a heat sink bracket, mount a new module in the middle, locate it somewhere away from the engine, make a wire harness with aluminum foil rapped around it to connect from the distributor to the located module?



after reading some of those posts they were talking about really random misfiring. mine does this as well. after a full tune up and properly routed wires (ford specs sheet) it still missfires and i can feel and watch it on my rpm gauge. i was seriously ready to bust a nut at the parts store

 

Yes, that's basically right (what to do). I made such a cable just recently for my DD Tempo, IIRC the three wires that get shielded are the ones leading to the PIP.

But you have to be careful here, there is the chance of introducing new problems e.g. by faulty wiring or bad/wrong connections or whatever.

The best thing to do is to change only one thing at a time; that way, you know what was changed so you can change it back to how it was in the event of failure. You can return to the known-good-working, baseline configuration.

Say, if you were to right now go go add a remote-mount kit and a new TFI module but it doesn't fix your problem - or things become worse - where is the problem? You will have changed so many things, any of which could be the source of your (new) problems and you may still have a totally different, as-yet-undiscovered problem (say, the PIP in the dizzy).

What I would do is first get it running right using the factory design, then worry about remotely locating the TFI module.

I think it's the Haynes manual (might be Chilton, not really sure) has some pretty good TFI/EEC-IV diagnostic procedures in it.

 

have any of the manufacturers of the module beefed things up or added extra heat resistance?

its worth a try considering thats almost the last thing i haven't replaced...... was considering getting a new computer for it aswell (carquest reman preprogrammed is only $75).

i should be getting at least 14-15mpg, i am not making 300 miles on a tank which is very sad, if i was getting 10mpg i should be able to get 320 miles per tank and the wiggle room of the filler neck is all the idling gas............


since you have been so helpful, can you give me a URL to replacing the chain in a borg warner 1356 t case? mine is so sloppy that every time i shift in and out of a gear the t case and drive shaft slap clash and its getting annoying trying to shift smooth. i wonder if there is any adjustments to tension the chain or remove a link, rear differential is not any better, about the same amount of slack

 

Well, I hate to burst your bubble and I feel kinda bad, but....

I don't know anything about transfer cases, I'd look in the shop manual for instructions. drivetrain.com, motivegear.com, novak-adapt.com might be able to help.

The way Chinese-made starter solenoids fail so readily, I'd be hard-pressed to get a Chinese-made ignition module. I know Ford says they have designed in added heat resistance, no idea about the aftermarkets, sorry.

I would be very leery of getting a computer from a parts store because, the way Ford did it, each configuration had its own Calibration Code and computer to match. I'm sorry but I'm not going to trust the aftermarket here... they seem to offer only two calibrations - manual, or automatic transmission. Nothing about high or low altitude, 49-state or California emissions, with AC or not, the GVWR, what engine, etc.

There are literally hundreds of calibration codes in the FoMoCo 1980/89 Light Truck Master Parts Manual.

Besides, I would expect to see numerous & many error codes being spewn by a failing computer. Computers generally outlive the vehicles and rarely fail.

I feel the same way about distributors, I don't trust the aftermarket. A guy in the I-6 forum was comparing the timing curve and advancement on two of the exact-same aftermarket dizzys, you'd think they'd both be the same, wouldn't ya? And reasonably close to what a Ford calibration would be, huh? What he found was astonishing. Ask a guy named AbandonedBronco if you're interested in more.

 

carquest seems to offer quite a few computer options for the 89 year, I counted more then 8 options, the one that looks appropriate to my vehicle started at $75 with a $15 core. I think the most expensive ones in the listing were $140, probably more rare combinations.

just thought i'd ask

 

I agree with everyone.
1. Don't buy a computer (PCM) it will be the last thing to go. If needed send the original to ECMTOGO.com. See if ICM and distributor stator fix it.
2. Don't get a remanufactured distributor. Buy a Motorcraft stator, mark everything when removing the distributor and replacing stator.
3. Get kit to relocate ICM below driver's side hood hinge.
4. Is the gas fresh?
5. One of the best suggested the ECT or ACT. Have you addressed them first?

 

it has fresh gas last week, full tank of 91.

i have 2 spare distributors, both are motorcraft

i don't know what code language is, please write the abbreviation out so I understand

 

This explains it all.
Fuel Injection Technical Library

http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=15

The ICM is also called TFI Ignition Control Module

Stator, PIP, Hall Effect, are allin the distributor, all the same.

PCM, ECM, are the computer