When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Pictures are known to lie like a rug! you or a trusted competent agent should inspect it in person. Otherwise don't spend more money than you are willing to walk away from.
A cheap price on a project base is not always a good buy, quite often the opposite is true. There is a basic truth in this hobby: a drivable truck is going to cost 15-20K. You can start with a base in excellent condition that costs 10K and put an additional 5-10K and 2-5 years into finishing it, or you can start with a 300.00 rust bucket/basket case then spend 15-20K and 5- 15 years (or often never before selling or junking it) replacing/rebuilding nearly every part, before finish building it to drivable condition.
You do know that an F3 is a 1 ton truck that was originally equipped with transmission and rear axle geared for hauling heavy loads not highway driving, has wheel base, suspension, fender openings and wheel sizes much larger than a F1 (1/2T pickup)? Big jobs like this are usually much lower priced due to lack of demand and no reproduction or aftermarket parts availability.
Ax, the F3 is the heavy 3/4 ton, the F4 is the one ton.
Well the cab is the same, but the frame is longer. You mentioned suspension differences. The brakes are different, fender openings are larger. There might be some other differences as well, the experts can explain more.
If you really want a truck project I would suggest you start by looking as far away from the rust belt as possible for one. It's not that expensive to have one shipped coast to coast or use the opportunity to see the country. You can cover the shipping costs with what you'll save on replacing or doing extensive repairs on just a pair of fenders. There are members on here from almost every corner of the country and most would be more than glad to check out a possible purchase and give you an objective evaluation of it.
Be realistic about your abilities and available budget.
Hopefully you have at least a few thousand dollars to start with. If so concentrate on finding a truck with unmolested and solid sheetmetal and all it's small parts and trim pieces. Mechanical (drive train) parts are not important at this price range. Same with surface rust and paint (some find such "patina" a desirable look). Stay away from rust buckets and stripped out shells, body repairs and small parts will eat a bank account alive.
5-10K can buy you a drivable truck with an excellent body in the arid SW states.
I agree with everything said so far, but I would also like to add:
Make sure it has a clear title. You don't want to spend a lot, or even a little money on something just to find out you don't legally own it.
If they say it has a title, don't hand over any cash until it's in your name.
What are my options if I don't have a title? Did I just waste what little money I spent on this truck, or is there hope (far reaching hope, but hope..)? I live in Kentucky, btw, and I know each state is different. I've heard of guys selling old titles at swap meets, but I don't know how that process works. Any thoughts?
What are my options if I don't have a title? Did I just waste what little money I spent on this truck, or is there hope (far reaching hope, but hope..)? I live in Kentucky, btw, and I know each state is different. I've heard of guys selling old titles at swap meets, but I don't know how that process works. Any thoughts?
DON'T by a title mill title online or at a swap meet, unless it comes with the vehicle, or at least the frame the title belongs to! They are selling ownership papers belonging to vehicles that were scrapped or otherwise destroyed, or even completely counterfeit computer generated paperwork. Obviously the serial #s on that paperwork will not match the numbers stamped on your frame. The sellers either hope that no one will question the papers and physically inspect your vehicle for it's numbers, or if the DMV does catch it (most states are very wise to the title mill ploy and will check the documentation closely ever since Boyd Coddington was found guilty of title laundering and evading millions of dollars in taxes in Ca for selling cars with title mill paperwork.) And then the seller's answer is too bad, so sad... when your vehicle is seized and you are charged with title/money laundering/tax evasion/ dealing in stolen or fraudulently acquired goods, and a host of other possible charges.
Almost every state has provisions for titling hot rods, homebuilts, and old vehicles where the titles are lost or were never issued (title issuing are fairly recent in many states). Before you spend another dime on your truck contact the main office of your state's DMV in the capital city (NOT a local office!) either online or by calling and find out the procedure. It varies in every state, but often includes a lot of paperwork and fees, producing a legitimate bill of sale for the major components ( body, chassis, engine), finding the serial # on your frame (the factory stamped one, not the vin plate that was attached to the glovebox door or door post) and having it certified by an agent of the DMV, or getting a new one issued and stamped on it, putting up a bond, and having a records check done to see if it was ever reported stolen or destroyed. There is a name for people who try to circumvent the system, they are called crooks!
What are my options if I don't have a title? Did I just waste what little money I spent on this truck, or is there hope (far reaching hope, but hope..)? I live in Kentucky, btw, and I know each state is different. I've heard of guys selling old titles at swap meets, but I don't know how that process works. Any thoughts?
The FIRST thing is to STOP, don't put another penny in this project until you know that you can get a LEGAL title for it. Now for the option:
1. Ask yourself why in the world you would buy a truck without a title?
2. Contact the person you got it from to see if they can help you get a title, or information on any previous owners that did have it title or registered (some states don't title older vehicles, but they do register them which serves the same as a title).
3. Let us know where you stand on #1 & 2 before proceeding.
We have a member from KY who bought a truck a while back from a couple of feuding family members. He was promised a title and began spending a lot of time and money working on the truck. The last I heard he was trying to recoup some of his money selling off 'parts'.
I bought my truck from a guy in Ga. When I paid him for it, he handed me a NC title from a dealer and a bill of sale. To get this right, he had to turn that title, with his BOS to Ga and register the truck. He then signed the reg over to me which allowed me to get a TN title for the truck BEFORE I spent a dime on the truck.
Just got off the phone with KY DMV, and it's actually a pretty simple process. The truck I'm looking at belonged to my buddies grandfather, and it has never been registered according to the lady at the DMV. All my buddy has to do is file for a lost title, attest to owning the vehicle for at least 10 years, and we're done...just waiting on a title.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.