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Okay, so here's what I've got. Had a 360/C6 setup, stock 2 bbl carb, nothing fancy, blew apart my bottom end. So I replaced it with a 390 out of a later 70's Ford. (Not sure on year) I switched everything over, Carb, distributor, etc. Now it runs horrible. I have the timing set to 12 degrees at idle, set the idle screws on the carb to about four turns out, equal for both, and have a electronic ignition.
One interesting point which I think is the problem, just not sure of the cause is, driver side exhaust blows cold air, while the passenger side blows hot air. Anyone have any ideas? Hopefully I gave enough information. Thanks in advance y'all.
also look at drivers side , sounds like it's not firing on that bank
easy test pull one plug wire at a time
if it runs worse that cylinder was firing if no change then you found a problem
Okay, so I pulled all of them off one at a time, on the drivers side, it ran the same no matter what. But as soon as I pulled one off the passenger side, it ran like ****. I'm not sure what's going on.
You need to confirm your firing order. If all the drivers side made no change, then it sounds like the plug wires are on wrong. Or maybe there is issues with valvetrain?
Cold exhaust means it's not firing in the cylinder properly. Just moving air.
I bought it off a guy from Craigslist, said it was a good running motor, and I just double checked the firing order. 1 5 4 2 6 3 7 8 says it on all three of my manifolds. I have 2 390's and a 360. And that would mean it's not firing the entire driver side? Hm.
Little update, I checked, I do have spark, gonna try to get ahold of a compression tester and check that. I'm wondering if it couldn't be something with a bad carb? Or lack of fuel causing this? I'm pretty sure I have the timing set right. Worse case, burnt valve, which I hope not.
Dual plane intakes don't feed side to side, it is 2 cyl from one side and 2 from the other on each plane. A compression test will tell a lot. Maybe they got the valves too tight on that side, like too long of pushrods???
you can just pull plugs and put your thumb over hole it will atleast tell you if any pressure , if none yank valve cover and look at pushrods & valvetrain
I hate to say this but just in case, are you sure you have the rotor pointing at the number one cylinder spark plug wire location on the distributer cap when the number one cyl. is at top dead center of the compression stroke? also because I don't know you ,or your mechanical knowledge,(I do not mean to offend any one that might be well aware of what I am typing already) are you counting the firing order by the passenger side front cyl. being # one, and the pass. side second cyl. being # two and so forth (1234 pass. side and 5678 drivers side). Also the rotor turns counter clockwise.
It is possible it has nothing to do with firing order or spark related, but that is what it seems like to me from the previous posts.
Actually I'm damn sure it wasn't the firing order. I checked that about ten times, lol. I had five different people ask and three of them check it too. So I had that all right. Found out what was wrong. Entire drivers band had 0 compression. All my valves were smoked. Yet my passenger side compression was running 150-160 depending upon the cylinder. So I have another head I'm gonna take down and have machined, and valve job done and all that jazz. And I think I'll be set. Thanks for the help y'all. I really appreciate it.
Actually I'm damn sure it wasn't the firing order. I checked that about ten times, lol. I had five different people ask and three of them check it too. So I had that all right. Found out what was wrong. Entire drivers band had 0 compression. All my valves were smoked. Yet my passenger side compression was running 150-160 depending upon the cylinder. So I have another head I'm gonna take down and have machined, and valve job done and all that jazz. And I think I'll be set. Thanks for the help y'all. I really appreciate it.
I'm not sure, but getting a valve job done on just one head disturbs my sense of symmetry. Maybe someone else will chime in that know better than I do. I'm not sure what you mean by having it machined, but anything you do to the new head you'd best make sure the other one matches it. And willybilly is right. It's not going to do you any good to slap another head on if you don't find the root cause for the failure of the old one.. If your pushrods are too long you'll find out soon enough, and so on.
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