6.9l won't start.....
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2009
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6.9l won't start.....
Here is a quick run down of what I am dealing with... THE DAMN THING WONT START!!! I have replaced all the return lines, checked for air intrusion, plumbed in a facet duralift fuel pump, and still, the truck wont start. A quick shot of starting fluid will fire it up but I HATE doing that. After the truck warms up and I let it set for an hour (still warm) it STILL wont start on its own. Some have said IP, some have said injectors, some have said both?? The truck runs PERFECT when its running, smooth as can be. What I really dont understand is why the truck runs so good but wont start on its own (even after being ran all day).. Can anyone help me start to narrow down the problem based off of these symtoms???
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Freshman User
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One thing I did not thank of... This is my first diesel engine, with the info presented on this forum, I have been able to learn alot about them without any help. I searched the forum on timing and have a understaning of how it works but I dont have the equipment required for this procedure. What to do, what to do.... Its ALWAYS something!!!
Elder User
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You can easily time by ear and make it run much better than it is.
I would start by advancing it, usually timing too far retarded will cause starting issues like you describe. I'd crank it over to the passenger side about 2 dimes widths and see what happens.
I would start by advancing it, usually timing too far retarded will cause starting issues like you describe. I'd crank it over to the passenger side about 2 dimes widths and see what happens.
Elder User
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One question... how loud is your diesel clatter? Is the engine really smooth and kind of quiet?
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Freshman User
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How/what do I advance? Not knowing the norm, I don't know about the clatter. The engine idles smooth, accelerates smooth.
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Elder User
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the injection pump itself. It has nuts that keep it right.... 2 below, 1 top center. Loosen the bottom 2 up enough to where they aren't clamping anymore, then the top
Use a wrench on the lug on the pump to pull it over to the passenger side. I suggest using a sharpie to mark where its at now, then looking down rotate it over to the pass side about 1/8", then clamp that top middle nut down. Start it up to see if it is any better.
Use a wrench on the lug on the pump to pull it over to the passenger side. I suggest using a sharpie to mark where its at now, then looking down rotate it over to the pass side about 1/8", then clamp that top middle nut down. Start it up to see if it is any better.
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Postmaster
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glow plugs have nothing to do with it's starting ability at any time other than first start of the day, or long shut off times during cold weather. If the controller is working wright it should not even turn the glows on if the engine temps are high enough.
in mid 70*F - mid 80*F weather my truck can sit for 7hrs and it will start just fine without glow plugs.
in mid 70*F - mid 80*F weather my truck can sit for 7hrs and it will start just fine without glow plugs.
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Freshman User
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Ill give it a try after bit.. the temps around here are in the 90's, doubtful the gp's have much to do with my warm start ups. So the IP acts like a distributor in a way? Its position effects the timing, interesting! Ill have to locate the "lug" mentioned and give it a try. Thanks
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2011
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maybe in a hot climate the GPs aren't as important, but here in seattle, just 4-5 hours off requires GPs for an easy start. not saying it won't catch at all without them, but i haven't given it that much chance. usually it fires up for less that 1 second of cranking, if it hasn't caught in 2, i wait for the GPs then it does catch right away.
in any case, lets figure out what shape his plugs are in so we can rule out that problem
in any case, lets figure out what shape his plugs are in so we can rule out that problem
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Port Orchard, WA
It's also possible that your starting system just isn't cranking fast enough.
The batteries can be tested at any auto parts store. The cables, however, can corrode internally, even if they look fine on the outside. My method is to slice them open 2" from every terminal with a utility knife. If the copper is green, replace them. If not, wrap it up good with electric tape.
Make sure all the terminals are clean, greased (not everybody does this) and tight. Also check the ground terminals at the block. Also check the starter mounting plate, it grounds through the bellhousing.
The batteries can be tested at any auto parts store. The cables, however, can corrode internally, even if they look fine on the outside. My method is to slice them open 2" from every terminal with a utility knife. If the copper is green, replace them. If not, wrap it up good with electric tape.
Make sure all the terminals are clean, greased (not everybody does this) and tight. Also check the ground terminals at the block. Also check the starter mounting plate, it grounds through the bellhousing.