4.9 Woes - help? :(
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Joined: Jul 2012
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From: Plainville, CT
4.9 Woes - help? :(
Hi guys, I'm new here. I have a '95 F150 with the 4.9, roughly 165k on it. I think I bent a rod, or spun a bearing (or maybe both), but I'm not sure.
Changed the oil the other day... went from 20W50 my Dad always used in it to Castrol 10W30 High Mileage. The HM oil is semi-synthetic. I also put a quart of Lucas Stabilizer in there (to make the 6 quarts). Used a Fram TG filter. When I started it, noticed a WEIRD noise, and than a sound like little pellets in my crank
I read somewhere on here that Fram filters can make the truck knock a little? Don't really understand that, since it had a regular Fram on there before I changed the oil, but hey.... and (it may just be me), but the noise seems to have quieted down a bit. This weekend, I'm throwing 20W back in it and a Motorcraft filter to see what happens, and I'll screen the oil for any metal.
Any suggestions? Could the filter really cause it to make that noise? I've been working on cars my whole life and never imagined a filter could do that, of at least make the noise THAT bad. Oil pressure's fine and all that, so yeah... any help would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Changed the oil the other day... went from 20W50 my Dad always used in it to Castrol 10W30 High Mileage. The HM oil is semi-synthetic. I also put a quart of Lucas Stabilizer in there (to make the 6 quarts). Used a Fram TG filter. When I started it, noticed a WEIRD noise, and than a sound like little pellets in my crank
I read somewhere on here that Fram filters can make the truck knock a little? Don't really understand that, since it had a regular Fram on there before I changed the oil, but hey.... and (it may just be me), but the noise seems to have quieted down a bit. This weekend, I'm throwing 20W back in it and a Motorcraft filter to see what happens, and I'll screen the oil for any metal.
Any suggestions? Could the filter really cause it to make that noise? I've been working on cars my whole life and never imagined a filter could do that, of at least make the noise THAT bad. Oil pressure's fine and all that, so yeah... any help would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,179
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From: Pueblo, CO
Stick to regular 10w30 oil, Maybe go 10w40 if it's really hot but you probably don't need to. 20w50 is way too thick. "High mileage" oils are a gimmick, just use quality name brand oil. I've never had an issue with fram filters but you can't go wrong with motorcraft.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 4,197
Likes: 558
From: Central Wisconsin
During the summer I run 15w-40 in my small block and 10w-40 in the winter. Havoline oil when I can get it, and either a motorcraft or K&N oil filter. I wouldn't dare run 20w-50 or a fram filter
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,179
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From: Pueblo, CO
I've never heard of a fram filter causing an engine knock. I've heard a couple guys badmouth them but nothing specific, just saying they would never use them but not elaborating. Never had a problem with them personally.
Did it sit for a while without oil in it while you were doing the oil change? I've been told that if you allow ALL of the oil to drain then the pump can lose it's prime and the engine will be starved for oil for a bit on startup.
I'd fire it up and try and get a good idea of where the noise is coming from and if it's more of a knocking or a tapping. I've seen exhaust leaks that sounded similar to a knock/tap.
Did it sit for a while without oil in it while you were doing the oil change? I've been told that if you allow ALL of the oil to drain then the pump can lose it's prime and the engine will be starved for oil for a bit on startup.
I'd fire it up and try and get a good idea of where the noise is coming from and if it's more of a knocking or a tapping. I've seen exhaust leaks that sounded similar to a knock/tap.
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2012
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From: 7th realm of hell, Va.
Ask your dad why he was running such a heavy oil, If it was because it was running low oil pressure with 10/30 or 10/40 then it may be time for a rebuild.
Did you prime the filter before you installed It? If not it takes a few seconds to fill the filter and get oil to the top end.
High mileage oils contain extra additives to "condition" seals, or it makes them swell a little to prevent/fix small leaks from the seals.
personally on my newer fords a always use motorcraft filters. My 92 F250 and my 73 Nova I usually just use the Fram filters, never a problem with them.
I would avoid the K&N filters for a regularly street driven vehicle. By design the K&N filters only have about 70% efficiency, they are designed for race/offroad vehicles that get the oil changed very often and where you want as little resistance as possible. For the most efficient filter you want the Mobile1 filter.
As far as the Lucas oil stabilizer i have never used it. I know people that swer by it and people that swear at it.
Just my $.02
matt
Did you prime the filter before you installed It? If not it takes a few seconds to fill the filter and get oil to the top end.
High mileage oils contain extra additives to "condition" seals, or it makes them swell a little to prevent/fix small leaks from the seals.
personally on my newer fords a always use motorcraft filters. My 92 F250 and my 73 Nova I usually just use the Fram filters, never a problem with them.
I would avoid the K&N filters for a regularly street driven vehicle. By design the K&N filters only have about 70% efficiency, they are designed for race/offroad vehicles that get the oil changed very often and where you want as little resistance as possible. For the most efficient filter you want the Mobile1 filter.
As far as the Lucas oil stabilizer i have never used it. I know people that swer by it and people that swear at it.
Just my $.02
matt
Postmaster
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 3,310
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From: E.Lincoln County, NC
Is this just on start-up or after it's run a minute or more? Whichever filter you use just be sure it has the anti-drainback valve in it. Ford came out with a check valve because of dry start-up issues but with the proper filter I wouldn't think it necessary.
Could also be THIS
Ford issued aTSB concerning this yrs ago . Regardless of the oil filter used , Be it Motorcraft or whatever , the oil will drain from the filter over a period of time . What Ford did was come up with an oil filter adapter ( The adapter is the part that you screw the oil filter on to ) that has a check ball & spring . This check ball stops all oil flow from the oil filter when the engine is off . It will stop the startup noise , But its roughly an $80 part , When you see it you will never understand how it can cost $80+ dollars . Its basically an oil filter adapter with a steel ball & a spring behind it . Im not sure any serious damage or wear occurs , But lots of people complained & thats what Ford came up with . Its Ford Part No. E4TZ 6890 A . .
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New User
Joined: Jul 2012
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From: Plainville, CT
Thanks for all the responses! I made a mistake - my Dad never ran 20W in this truck. Just 10W30. And yeah, it sat for a Few minutes when I drained the oil, but nothing too major. However, I did make 1 idiot mistake - I started it up on the ramps :$ and yeah, come rely drained it so the pump might've lost its prime. :/
I'm still gonna put some 10W40 or maybe even 15W this weekend, with a different filter, but I'm thinking it could be a rod/bearing. If it's a bearing, I think I'll just grab a new motor. :/
I'm still gonna put some 10W40 or maybe even 15W this weekend, with a different filter, but I'm thinking it could be a rod/bearing. If it's a bearing, I think I'll just grab a new motor. :/
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