starting issue
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starting issue
I can't figure out what the problem is. It started slowly where once in a while when I turned the key to start nothing would happen I did have a sound in my distributor area (.like it was charging) but the truck wouldn't turn over. now it won't turn over at all. I can turn the key to the run position and jump the solenoid to start it. This will happen whether the clutch is in or not and whether it is in neutral or not. So far I have changed the ignition coil, ignition switch, clutch interlock switch, and the solenoid. Nothing has helped The starter is good and the battery is charged. The headlights and dash lights are fine and I have no dimming when I move the key to start I can also push the truck and pop the clutch to start it. Tomorrow I am going to change the neutralsensing switch in the tranny but I was wondering if there were any other ideas in case it doesn't work either. Thanks
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From: SW Va
Welcome to FTE.
Might be helpful to know what year, model, engine you have.
Just so we're all singing from the same Hymnal, by " won't turnover", do you mean the starter won't crank the engine very fast, or do you mean the engine won't try to run????
Interesting that it'll start if you'll pop the clutch, so maybe look to an electrical feed/voltage drop, bad ground problem, to either the starter, fuel pump, or ignition, when cranking the engine, even though you say the lights don't dim. So monitor B+ feed to those items when you crank the engine. You'll need at least 10 volts to them when cranking the engine.
DON'T throw any more parts at the problem until you have a Positive result on your trouble shoot.
Might be helpful to know what year, model, engine you have.
Just so we're all singing from the same Hymnal, by " won't turnover", do you mean the starter won't crank the engine very fast, or do you mean the engine won't try to run????
Interesting that it'll start if you'll pop the clutch, so maybe look to an electrical feed/voltage drop, bad ground problem, to either the starter, fuel pump, or ignition, when cranking the engine, even though you say the lights don't dim. So monitor B+ feed to those items when you crank the engine. You'll need at least 10 volts to them when cranking the engine.
DON'T throw any more parts at the problem until you have a Positive result on your trouble shoot.
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From: Smithfield N.C.
Have you checked the Starter relay or to if you are getting power to the solenoid? It seems you have replaced a lot of parts and new parts never hurt, but you have to find the problem before you can fix it. I am with Paw Paw on this one. Don't replace anything else till you find the problem.
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It's a 1990 ranger 2.9L 4x4 with the 5 speed manual. By saying it doesn't turn over I mean that when I turn the key I get nothing from the starter or the starter/reley (solenoid) noclick from the solenoid like you would usually get if the starter is bad nor any type of turning of the starter The battery tests at 12.75 volts the ignition coil lead tests at 12.75. The solenoid has conductivity and everything in the power distribution box tests at 12.74 volts. I talked to a freind and he said that I should have 12 volts at the ignition switch lead where it connects to the solenoid when the key is moved to the start position but I don't get it He seems to beleive that the problem is between the key and the solenoid. PawPaw, what so you mean by the B+ feed I am unfamiliar with the terminology
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From: SW Va
It's a 1990 ranger 2.9L 4x4 with the 5 speed manual. By saying it doesn't turn over I mean that when I turn the key I get nothing from the starter or the starter/reley (solenoid) noclick from the solenoid like you would usually get if the starter is bad nor any type of turning of the starter The battery tests at 12.75 volts the ignition coil lead tests at 12.75. The solenoid has conductivity and everything in the power distribution box tests at 12.74 volts. I talked to a freind and he said that I should have 12 volts at the ignition switch lead where it connects to the solenoid when the key is moved to the start position but I don't get it He seems to beleive that the problem is between the key and the solenoid. PawPaw, what so you mean by the B+ feed I am unfamiliar with the terminology
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From: peru kansas
my wifes truck just did that
its in the wires in the steering column i took plastic cover off wiggled all the wires unplugged all connections then put it back together and it started right up i hope it works for you buddy....let us know how it turns out
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The ignition switch connector has several wires going to it how would I know which one goes to the solenoid will it be the same color as the end at the solenoid and do you think I would just need to check the conductivity
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thanks smokenchoke I'll get under there in the morning and do some wiggling
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From: peru kansas
one more thing
her truck did it again not to long ago i simply pulled the steering wheel tilt lever and racked the wheel up and down roughly a few times and it started right up so i know it was one of the wires close to where it pivots on the tilt....
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That's interesting because my freind asked me if the steering wheel tilted and then said something about the ignition mechanism itself. I'll call him tomorrow and let you know what it was exactly that he said.
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