Every once in in a while when I go to start my 94 Ranger 2.3L (manual), I turn the key and the starter won't turn over. All the normal dash warning lights come on, and I can hear the audible "click" of the solenoid, but no dice. The battery is in good shape (13 volts), and alternator is fine (14.5volts). Usually the second attempt works, and the truck starts and runs fine. Starter turns over fine and fast, when the "connection" is made. Also, doesn't seem to matter if engine is warmed up or cold. Lately, the problem got worse, as in having to try the switch about 8 or 9 times before it would catch as normal. When it would catch, started and ran fine. Other times, it would start on the first attempt.

So last week I crawled under the truck, took the thick battery wire off the starter solenoid, saw some light blue corrosion crud - cleaned, re-soldered, and heat shrink protected it, and hooked it all up. The truck started fine. Great, I thought, problem solved.

However, the next day, same thing happened again. But one thing I did notice as I was driving along, I could move the ignition switch in and out about a sixteenth of an inch or so. (No effect while driving along). I also figured out that when I start the truck, pulling the ignition switch out slightly seems to fix the problem. I think that when I first put the key in the switch, it pushes it in further towards the steering wheel, and the "no start" happens. By the second or third attempt, I think the ignition switch gets pulled back out (away from the steering column), and the truck starts. Thats my theory.

I can get by okay now that I know this is the problem, but I am wondering if anyone else has had the same experience or if I should get this fixed properly.

 

Do you have 12v on the starter side of the starter and at the starter when you turn the key to start and it's no-start?

 

If you hear the clicking while you are turning the key, it doesn't sound like a key lock cylinder issue to me. The lock cylinder and ignition switch are doing their jobs.

You might want to crawl under the truck again and clean the Black wire that runs to the starter/solenoid, that is the one that comes from the relay and grounds the starter/solenoid when you turn the key to "start" position.

 

Ken00 - I haven't checked the voltage on the starter side when its a no start, but will try to rig up the voltmeter to check.

Rockledge - I cleaned all the wires to the starter solenoid when I was down there, but will check again.

 

Check the positive and negative cables at the battery, not just at the battery, you could have corrosion inside a wire alittle further from the battery connections, I had a bad positive cable that was bad 4" from the battery connection.

 

Finally solved the problem. The problem was getting worse over the last month, with about 15-20 attempts to get the truck going. Turns out it was the fender mounted relay, even though it was clicking on, and a continuity test with a voltmeter showed that current was flowing through the main posts when activated. I was about to remove the battery cable to the starter and check it (I had checked all connections previously, and removed starter and tested it), when I decided to try an older Ford solenoid that I had kicking around (only difference is that it had an extra terminal (marked "I")). To my amazement, it worked!

Here's the question, though. On the solenoid I removed, there is a warning printed on it that says "Replace with Ford specified service part only. Other parts may damage the engine electronic control unit." The part number is E9TF - 11450 - AA. I am using a Ford solenoid, but not the exact replacement. Anyone see any problem doing this? If it was going to damage the engine ECU, would it have done it immediately, or after a certain amount of time? I intend on using the replacement this weekend anyway, and maybe spring for the $20-30 cost of a new one next week.

Another funny (or sad?) part to this story is that I phoned the local ford dealer to price out a new positive battery cable - $221.00 (Canadian) (approx $175 US) Yes, that is not a typo -$221 for a Positve battery cable to fit the 94 ranger 2.3 L. I told him no thanks.

Thanks for the help and suggestions.

 

I think the replacement battery cable (assembly) I got for my '91 ranger before I sold it was less than $50 (US) at NAPA. It had a different appearence from the factory set, but routed & functioned the same. Ford loves that setup with the two cables bonded to thin metal strips encased in rubber. It's hard to replicate and breaks easily. Engineered to be a post-warantee failure.