Alright so I have posted questions regarding f100 suspension on here before and decided to stick with my straight axle and just put disc brakes on the front. I do have some questions that maybe you guys can help out with. I am pretty good about researching topics but I just can't seem to find any material/articles on what I was looking for.

1) I have seen people bring the front bumpers on a 56 closer to the body. You know shorten distance from the valance and front bumper. Is there any special trick to doing this. I could always figure it out but I was wondering if there was any mentorship on this so I don't mess it up.

2) I have to do some repair on the cab in the usual spots around the drip rail. There are some areas that just have rust holes, and there is a couple areas where I will need to put a patch panel, about 1-3 inches wide and about 1-2 inches high at the worst. Any suggestions? As far as fabricating patch panels? What type of welder, welding type?

Once again I am open to any mentorship and or articles on how to do it, or the best way to do it. Pictures always help!

Thanks guys.

 

Roof repairs:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...roof-here.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...a-53-f100.html

Bumper tucking:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...-midfifty.html

 

Lol... I should have known my roof thread would make the list. For shame...

Do know however, my roof repair thread is more of a 'tongue-in-cheek' and not a 'how to' by any means. I've done proper repairs before... and then the one in my thread...

 

Even if you only have pinholes showing the rust will have thinned and weakened the metal too much to repair without cutting away the rusted metal and replacing it. The roof is a little more difficult repair than most since there are no repair panels available so you will need to make your own, and there is understructure that typically rusts out as well. I have been posting welding theory and practices topic you might want to read. Unless you are very proficient with a TIG welder, MIG would be the next best choice. If you can get your truck to Durham I'd be willing to give you a hand with your roof and welding lessons.

 

That is pretty much exactly what I suspected I would have to do. Right now my truck is painted but there is rust bubbles on the roof and on the lower door panels. I am still thirty days from being home from Afghanistan but I will attach some photos of the areas that I am talking about. I planned on picking a the bubbles to see what they looked like and whether or not it is surface rust or the bad (looks like it's something underwater that I should be scuba diving around) rust I will clean it up and leave some primered patches in those areas. I am not concerned with having a truck three different colors just as long as it's all metal. If I have to make patch panels for it then I will. The only thing is I was trying to figure out how i could fabricate a patch panel and mimic the area of the top of the cab that attaches to the drip rail. X-racer, like I said I will be home in about thirty days. It will probably be about 60 days before I am back in NC with my truck. I would be happy to head up to Durham. I have been looking to upgrade my welding skills. Also I would like how to learn to use an old acetalene welder, and work with a stronger MIG then I have a 110. If you have the time in the future would love to get togethor. Also when that time comes if you know anyone with metal tools or used welders they want to get rid of I would be happy to purchase some during that time.

 

I have several projects going on at the same time, my wifes mustang was in need of some very tiny rust repair work, so I used POR 15. It stops the rust and harden the rusted metal like new metal. I did that on the inside under the roof, where the small holes were I layed a peice of wax paper on top to not allow the POR 15 to bubble for i could come back with a thin coat of bondo on top, yes it turn out great after it was painted you cant even see where this was done at. I just bought a 46 Ford Pickup, I plan to strip it completely and do the entire frame with it, I have a lower corner panel that will need to be replaced, so it will need to be cut out and have a new lower corner panel wire welded in, have too for a truck. The only thing about POR 15 is what ever it gets on it will be there permerently, even your skin. I look like i am going to a hazmat I am covered head to toe messing with that stuff, but i swear by it, it works good. Rob

 

Please don't do ghetto body repairs unless you are planning on dumping the vehicle. If the paint is bubbling then it is rusted thru from the inside under the paint and moisture is getting in causing the paint to bubble.
A OX-Ac torch is a handy tool to master. You can even weld aluminum with one.
Don't buy a used welder, the technology has greatly advanced, the prices have dropped to where a new unit is cheaper and better than a used one. It's like buying a 5 year old computer for more money than a new one. I have hands on experience with the 135A MIG Eastwood sells for 299.00 and highly recommend it. I use a 115V MIG welder in my shop, (read my lessons to learn the difference between MIG and wire feed welders) it will do any welding that needs doing on our trucks. If you really want a 220V unit don't overbuy unless you plan on building trailers or bridges for a living (remember the higher the max A output the less suited it will be for light metal work). The Eastwood 175A unit is my recommendation for a 220V machine and it even comes with a free spool gun. I believe the Eastwood machines are made by Lincoln, they are identical except for case color.

 

Ax Racer, I don't plan on doing any ghetto repair. I have some experience welding, but before I hack into my roof I would like to get better at it. I would like to take some lessons when I get back to NC if you have the time. Could you send me the link to your welding thread? I appreciate it. Thanks

 

her you go: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-practice.html

 

Ax Racer,

I will be home in about a week and would like to get with you about installing a Nova clip on my f100. Do you have any experience doing a clip like this? I can pick up a 72 nova clip for about 200 dollars with everything including tires and really besides the welding all I would need to invest in is the brake booster, and some suspension rebuilding. Let me know!

 

When I tucked my front bumper I took 2 inches off. This left about 3/4 inch between the bumper and gravel pan. The bracket under the bumper will have to be slightly notched out since it will move back into the gravel pan rail slot.

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And about an intense 3 month's time, a LOT of careful fabrication, bracing since the Nova clip is wider than the ford frame and would be best to do it on the bare frame. Then you need to realize the entire front sheetmetal on the 56 hangs from and is aligned off the radiator support, So you must fab a new precisely located radiator support or accurately graft the front of the Ford frame and original radiator support back onto the Nova subframe in exactly the right location or nothing will ever fit right. So it's really doing 2 clips. Not a job for the faint of heart or one lacking in experience. Then there is the problem that of the GM front clips, the 72 Nova is not the best choice. Not a job I'd want to tackle unless I was getting big bucks for it, after I did my best to convince the customer that it would be much cheaper, quicker and easier and far better to put in a Jag, Lexus or one of the MII type, or C4 based aftermarket units without clipping the frame, or if he wanted to pay me that much I'd love to put in a full Solstice F&R IS on a 56 frame (yes, it would fit)!