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Our Dutchmen has the option for a 2nd A/C unit, the wiring is up in the ceiling. However, I can't find out where it terminates too. I've tried hooking a battery up to it to locate the wire in the convertor panel, but nothing is showing up on the multimeter. Any ideas without having to rip the ceiling down? I temped a new power wire for it so we can use it for our trip to the keys, just would like a cleaner install.
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Our Dutchmen has the option for a 2nd A/C unit, the wiring is up in the ceiling. However, I can't find out where it terminates too. I've tried hooking a battery up to it to locate the wire in the convertor panel, but nothing is showing up on the multimeter. Any ideas without having to rip the ceiling down? I temped a new power wire for it so we can use it for our trip to the keys, just would like a cleaner install.
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Just to get me on the same page, you have a box in the ceiling with plastic cover over it and you have 50 amp service?
I would be surprised if that trailer was set up for a second A/C. Are you sure those aren't just wires for a vent fan (12V)? If it were pre-wired you'd have a 50 amp service as RV Tech indicated, and the breaker would most likely be already installed in the panel.
While the trailet only has a 30 amp convertor, the box on the ceiling states" air conditioning circuit-this connection is for air conditioners rated 110-125 volts ac. 60 hz 16 amp maximum". For the present, I have wired the ac seperately from the unit.
While the trailet only has a 30 amp convertor, the box on the ceiling states" air conditioning circuit-this connection is for air conditioners rated 110-125 volts ac. 60 hz 16 amp maximum". For the present, I have wired the ac seperately from the unit.
That box on the ceiling is meaningless. You can not run two airs on a 30 amp circuit unless you want to install a power management system. Some of the factories install that box in everything, but whether or not it is connected to anything is what makes the difference and in many units it is not. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.
When a ceiling air starts, it draws about 35 amps for a second, then drops back to about 14-15 amps on a typical day so you can see it puts you right on the edge with everything else in the camper turned off including the power converter. If you change to high efficiency roof airs, you can just squeak by. On a 100 degree plus day forget it!
Steve, I wasn't planning on running both of the units off of the convertor. I was hoping to find where the wire terminated so i could have a cleaner install instead of wiring on the inside ceiling. I guess i need to talk to an electrician about chasing the wire for me.
Steve, I wasn't planning on running both of the units off of the convertor. I was hoping to find where the wire terminated so i could have a cleaner install instead of wiring on the inside ceiling. I guess i need to talk to an electrician about chasing the wire for me.
You can use a toner, which doesn't cost much, and you may get lucky, but tracing wires in an RV can be just this side of Hell! At the very least do not expect wire routing to make sense in an RV as often it doesn't.
The wires most likely end somewhere near the present breaker box and, in an ideal world, you would change out the breaker box to a 50-amp and run a 50-amp shoreline.
What you might be able to do is use the ceiling duct in your present system as a wire chase and drop down in a cabinet depending on the layout of your rig. That can be done in a pretty safe and sanitary manner and I appreciate the fact you are going about this task in a thoughtful way. I will tell you that when I have to get serious about running wires to install a component, it often takes me longer to plan the runs than it does to run the wires.
On a good job no one should be able to tell you worked on anything.