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Bah WaterPump..

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Old Jun 27, 2012 | 07:35 PM
  #1  
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tje2015
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Bah WaterPump..

So since I have this damn radiator off and out of the engine bay, and obviously all of the coolant drained out, Im seriously considering doing the water pump now as well, I have looked into and am fairly confident I can do it, but dammit, it just aint broke yet. Im pretty sure its the factory pump, But should I go ahead and spend the $200.00ish and replace it? Not sure on that price NAPA quoted me 154.00, I figure every project I ever do ends up being 30% more than originally planned on so i just went ahead and threw that extra bit in there .

Thoughts?
 
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Old Jun 27, 2012 | 08:04 PM
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If it's never been done..... not a half bad idea doing it, especially since your right there
 
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Old Jun 27, 2012 | 08:16 PM
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'94IDITurbo7.3's Avatar
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$200.00 large for a damn water pump. got mine brand new from a-zone (a good pump btw) for $25+tax. even one from ford or IH is around $100 iirc.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2012 | 08:16 PM
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That's Napa for ya....
 
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Old Jun 27, 2012 | 08:37 PM
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yeah mine was around the 25-35 area also, Mine went out and had to do it without taking anything out lol, It wasn't as bad as I was thinking, Just keep the bolts apart cause I think I had like 4 different sizes if I can remember right lol
 
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Old Jun 27, 2012 | 08:51 PM
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Rock Auto's most expensive option is $60ish. Definitely getting hosed by Napa.

Mike
 
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Old Jun 27, 2012 | 09:00 PM
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Is there anything I need to consider when I go to start her back up after the fresh install? Im worried about how Im going to get all the air back out of the block, is this something that i should worry about, is there someway to ...burp it? Any tips im all ears.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2012 | 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by tje2015
Is there anything I need to consider when I go to start her back up after the fresh install? Im worried about how Im going to get all the air back out of the block, is this something that i should worry about, is there someway to ...burp it? Any tips im all ears.
just start it up and let it idle for a while. you are installing a real temp gauge right?

i just left my rad cap off and let it idle while i watched the real temp gauge that i put in. then if everything seems good go for a drive. it might take a bit of driving to get ALL the air out. just check the rad level often and refill as needed. don't be alarmed if the puke tank level goes down keeps going down after you refill for a few days. it is just the air escaping.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2012 | 09:27 PM
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Yes, I was planning on doing the damn thermostat but only if i was going to do the damn water pump. Lol Im fighting myself on doing this, Ive never removed an altenator, and I dont know if I can get the tension back on it correctly, but IIRC You have to remove it to get to the thermostat. Also what is the thermostat connected to? I mean it cant just sit in there otherwise I wouldn't see my gauge moving. Please advise on what to look for as far as removal of the alternator.

Also, the fan clutch, can i just get a bigass adjustable wrench for 60 bux or so to remove that?
 
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Old Jun 27, 2012 | 09:52 PM
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Ahhh, I think I found out how the thermostat works, basically it just keeps the engine (or trys) at a constant speed via a heat operated spring. Thermostat is a really terrible name for this. Should be called engine temperature coil or adjuster or something.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2012 | 10:01 PM
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Remember to use ONLY a ford or navistar thermostat in there. And dont loose that little check ball in there.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2012 | 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by tje2015
Ahhh, I think I found out how the thermostat works, basically it just keeps the engine (or trys) at a constant speed via a heat operated spring. Thermostat is a really terrible name for this. Should be called engine temperature coil or adjuster or something.
Constant speed? Don't know if I would say that. It blocks off the flow of coolant. When it's cold, no coolant flows through it. When it's warm, coolant passes through. The idea is that the coolant stuck in the block will warm up due to not being circulated, which in turn causes the block to warm up quicker. When it hits a certain temp, the spring opens up and the coolant can flow through to the radiator and cool off.

As for the alternator tension, basically it needs to be as tight as you can go by hand. Set it, then set the tension on the vacuum pump because it will need adjusted as well. Thankfully it is all pretty easy to do. Just loosen the bolts, figure out which one it pivots around, and push or pull accordingly.

Mike
 
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Old Jun 28, 2012 | 08:29 AM
  #13  
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Lol constant speed I meant constant temperature. Sorry, goodcatch.
 
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