We have a 1952 ford pu that has steering issues. It has a lot of play only on the left side. Wonders all over the road hard to steer straight. Got to fight with the steering wheel the whole time driving. Had the king pins checked and they are good. Has solid axle no power steering. What should I check?

 

Sounds like you have a worn box. After 30 years of sloppy steering I finally got the ambition to change the box from a recent parts truck. It's a bit of a pain because you either have to have the truck raised pretty high off the ground or take off the cab to remove it. I just got a two post lift that makes it a lot easier.

 

It could be combination of both, steering box and the front suspension. Both are likely worn beyond effective use. You can get your steering box rebuilt for about $300. The suspension is easy to fix and will likely run you around $800 if you do it yourself.

You can try adjusting the slop out of the steering box by twisting the adjustment screw on the box, but that's a temporary fix.

You can also read this post that has similar issues.. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ing-float.html

 

Various suspension and steering components have to work together to direct a vehicle correctly down the road. Any single or multiple components can effect both steering and handling.
Checking even something as simple loose wheel bearings well effect drive ability and even braking.
Make sure you check all suspension components ( springs, bushings, king pins and shocks ) along with tie rods, drag link, tire incompatibility or incorrect pressure and steering gear lash adjustment.
If all components are tight or within specs have a qualified alignment person verify alignment specs are within specs.
Drag or lead to one side can be caused by loose parts ( or brake drag ) bad thrust frame angle and with loose components , improper alignment .

 

Along with what others have said, I want to ask what size tires and rims you have on the front end of your truck? These trucks came with a narrow tire and wheel combanation, this is over looked as a problem as people want to put their own style into and on their trucks and haven't thought about the problems this may cause...

 

I had the same problem. The box adjustment and the kingpins were OK. Only the right tie rod end had too much play but it wasn't enough to cause all the wandering (death wobble) that I was getting. After I got the tie rod off I noticed the sector shaft had about a 1/4" up and down movement that I had not noticed previously. You might want to jack up your front wheels and watch the shaft as you turn the steering by hand using the tire and wheel on the left side. If you see movement 51panelman is correct and CPP has rebuilt boxes for $450 but they have a lifetime warranty. http://www.classicperform.com/Store/1948_64_Ford_Truck/4852RSBEX.htm

I used this problem as an excuse to solve a bunch of issues so I am in the middle of changing springs, adding power steering and a new column. I hadn't planned on doing it this soon but it was a good excuse to move forward.

 

thanks so much for the comback!

 

I just changed the front spring bushings on my F-2, they all were worn pretty bad. While I had the truck up on the lift I pulled the bad steering box out. I had the "new" used replacement box and before installing it I compared it to the old one. A HUGE difference. The old one grumbled and I could hold the splined shaft and turn the column shaft quite a bit without noticing any movement in the splined shaft. With the "new" box as soon as I started turning the column shaft I could feel the splined shaft start to turn. When this box was still in the parts truck I could feel there was quick reaction and no noticeable slop in it.

I got the box installed and took it for a test drive. I still have some slop in the steering. The truck seems to pull to the right, the front left wheel is worn on the inside so I know it needs a front end alignment which it will have when I get the new tires. I checked over all of the steering components and everything seems tight. One part I overlooked was the drag link. I didn't check to see if the ends were loose. I suspect that is were the remaining slop is coming from. The rebuild kits are cheap.

 

bobjr49f2: Yes, make sure that you check the drag link and the ball on your pitman arm. Mine was badly worn. The springs take up a lot of the slop but only so much. The attached picture speaks for itself I think.

 

I kept the pitman arm and drag link from the parts truck, which seemed to have very tight steering, no noticable slop at all. I made a note of it because I was planning on usig the parts in my F-2. I drove it around yesterday and today and it steers better than it did but it still moves a lot. Later this week I'll get it back up on the lift and check it out.

 

My 52 F1 has about 1/4 turn of slop. I think it's at the box as everything else seems tight.

How high up would I need to get the truck in order to R&R the box?

I tried tightening the adjustment screw on mine but it wouldn't budge. I could losen it but not tighten.

 

Are the internal parts like this steering box the same on the 52' F1-F3? We have an F3 and are attempting to sort out what parts are compatable between the models. From what i understand its mostly body parts that are different and gearing?

 

You just need the truck high enough to remove the left front wheel. You'll then need to undo the bolt holding the pitman arm to the box. Then you'll need a pitman arm puller to remove the pitman arm. The steering box and column should be removed from the inside of the cab. You'll need to remove the cover plates around the steering column on the cab floor. There are three bolts attaching the steering box to the frame. You may be able to maneuver the entire assembly through the cab with the steering wheel still attached. If not, then you'll have to remove the sterring wheel, which may require drilling and tapping two bolt holes to be used with the steering wheel puller if your current steering wheel does not have the holes from the factory.

Steering box is the same F1-F3.

 

On a pickup (not panel) I have always understood you could not get the column out thru the cab unless the rear window was removed? Likewise, it can't come out the bottom unless the frame is lifted quite a bit or on a lift, because the box itself hits the floor before the column clears the floor plates? (in both cases it's assumed the engine is in place)

 

If you remove the 4 sealing plates from around the steering column and pedals and jack up the front end so you get about a foot of clearance under the box it comes out the bottom quite easily even with the engine in place.