I have a Superchips MAX MicroTuner that I bought 6 or 7 years ago, and never had any trouble out of it. At the time I bought it, I didn't know (and wasn't told) I needed at the very least an EGT gauge. Now after having done some wrenching on my truck recently, I was about to load the tow profile back into it, but am wondering two things:

1) Should I wait until I get some gauges?
2) Is this tuner outdated now?

Only reason I ask is because I drove it 6+ years doing heavy towing (logs & machinery) and have never had anything serious happen except just had to change an oil cooler.

1999 F350 7.3 2WD

 

I would get some gauges. Or atleast gauge. As for the tuner, I have never heard of it.

 

If you have been running that tuner for 6 to 7 years an have had no problems it most likely isn't adding enough fuel over stock to raise your EGTs enough to harm anything.

Any tuner for the 7.3 that is that old is out of date compared to today's tunes, but if it suits your needs go with it.

 

It runs like a scalded dog with the tow code loaded compared to stock. It has two higher HP codes that I've never loaded. If I do go with something else I am considering a SOTF chip - but I have read so many pros/cons to chips that I am still in the highly confused stage - nowhere near ready to decide. In the meantime I have loaded the tow code back in because I have to tow some machinery this weekend. Of the 300K+ this engine has on it, over 100K of it is towing heavy machinery and believe me the stock 7.3 is a dog compared to this tow code from this programmer.

I guess I've been lucky because I've driven very hard while towing. Still, a pillar gauge set will be installed shortly. I think I'm going with this one, but input welcomed there too. Thanks for the replies.

 

Shift on the fly is a nice option. Especially if you add something like a high idle tune to get the AC or heater working during warm up.

What part of Texas? There are several custom tuners in Texas who offer a shift on the fly chip. I'd suggest you go with someone who's close to local in case you decide you want something changed down the road.

 

SOTF is nice to go to Decel on the big declines, quiet at the coffee window, high idle w/EBPV for quick warmup/batt charge, and stock in residential areas.

Alternative to A-Pillar (for old farts like me, who can't focus close and don't want lights in my face at night):

 

Being an old fart myself I couldn't agree more.

My eyes being what the are I replaced my old gauges with ISSPro Performax gauges. The needles light up and even when dimmed to their lowest I can see them. Once you get used to the gauge readings you don't really need to see the numbers to tell if the readings are good. All you need is the needle location.

Also helps to remember which gauge is which.

 

Pro's yes, but con's? Never heard a single con to using a chip.

Stewart

 

I think he was referring to specific chips, I know there is a crowd of anti DP guys.

As far as cons for SOTF chips, there is one. It can RARELY cause the truck to stall while switching tunes. I had this happen to me yesterday for the first time.

 

Yup, that's what I see up close. As for the needle movement, I'm already doing that with the speedometer, tach, fuel, etc....

The instructions say this can happen if changing tunes while the vehicle is under load and I stalled my truck a few days after getting the chip. I have since adopted the habit of getting my foot away from the throttle before changing tunes and I have not seen a repeat.

 

That's what I do, though I hardly ever switch on the fly. I usually start out in the tune needed for the situation, i.e. 80e or one of my tow tunes. 80e (daily driver) is usually sufficient for those over zealous individuals that want to play.

 

I was using 80e all winter long (with winter fuel, obviously) and I was averaging a little over 16 MPG on my daily commute to/from work (50 miles city/hwy each way). I have since repaired my MAP sensor, added a T500 HPOP, and switched to the 60e for daily driving - plus the summer fuel (obviously again). I now average 18 MPG on my daily commute and I have learned I lose about 1 MPG with the 80e by comparison. Is it because of the tune, or because of my behavior with the tune? I dunno... but I really like that economy with the 60e. That being said, I SOTF to 80e or 80t when I want to pass on a two-lane highway because there is a power difference. I can feel it, I can see it (a little coal and the SES light), and I can measure it on my AE and boost gauge.

TO the OP, I went with the F6 instead of the F5 because if you're like me (and I know I am) I get things like this and end up wishing I'd done things a little differently. I was so right in my case. I've had the shifts dialed for my HD4R100, I re-arranged the order of the tunes for my type of driving, I've added new tunes, then I re-arranged the order of the tunes again - all with emails and my netbook linked to the chip. I've finally hit the sweet spot for all scenarios and I have zero nit-picking issues with my tuner. The shifts are perfection in all tunes for the longevity of the transmission and the comfort of my wife and I. The order is logical so I only have to go up or down one or two notches for whatever driving I'm doing (like 80e between 60e and decel when cresting a mountain pass). Here is my sequence for my terrain and driving:

• 0 - No Start
• 1 - High Idle W/EBPV (warmup)
• 2 - Stock
• 3 - 60e
• 4 - 80e
• 5 - Decel
• 6 - 80T (most powerful of my tunes)
• 7 - 40T (for the bigger loads)
• 8 - Quiet (coffee window)

I'm a little careful with the quiet tune, but it does get used. I run it in a line of vehicles, but not at an open window... it can stink up the place.

 

Woo hoo this is great stuff! I wasn't expecting such fantastic input and useful info. I scanned the thread and will reread in detail later. Thanks for all the input.

I'm trying to formulate a strategy for choosing a chip. It's hard because the decisions in choosing any such product have to be made from subjective data. The factual data are easy to discern as to whether I need x amount of codes offerd by chip 1 or z number of codes as offered by chip 2 etc. Customer service, price, reliability these are all mostly subjective i.e. opinions of users based on their experiences. When I say price is subjective what I mean is perceived value more than actual dollar cost.

Any ideas about how I can come up with a way to zero in on the best chip for me is appreciated. I don't think I'm danger of starting a brand war here everyone seems mature and laid back so if anyone cares to share their experience with me I would be grateful.

I don't tow as much as I used to since I have stopped sawing for volume. I've developed a niche customer base over the last few years that allows me to work a lot less but make as much as when I was sawing ten times more logs. My point being I only haul my 6000# skid steer a couple times a month, and a trailer with logs of ~ 7 tons plus trailer weight also a coupe times a month. I don't have any steep grades to deal with between my timber tract and mill, except one and the tow setting on my current programmer handles it to where I can actually accelerate uphill if needed, so I inclines are not an issue here. I don't know what else one would need to know about my driving habits to help me out.

I also think I need to go with some bigger exhausts? I know there's no end to the mods once it gets started.

 

[quote=TexasSawmillGuy;12003158]Woo hoo this is great stuff! I wasn't expecting such fantastic input and useful info. I scanned the thread and will reread in detail later. Thanks for all the input.

I'm trying to formulate a strategy for choosing a chip. It's hard because the decisions in choosing any such product have to be made from subjective data. The factual data are easy to discern as to whether I need x amount of codes offerd by chip 1 or z number of codes as offered by chip 2 etc. Customer service, price, reliability these are all mostly subjective i.e. opinions of users based on their experiences. When I say price is subjective what I mean is perceived value more than actual dollar cost.

Any ideas about how I can come up with a way to zero in on the best chip for me is appreciated. I don't think I'm danger of starting a brand war here everyone seems mature and laid back so if anyone cares to share their experience with me I would be grateful.



Lol you hit the jackpot for information here!!
This is an excellent forum with excellent guys who are more than willing to share their knowledge (as you have already seen). Welcome by the way!

As for my tuner I went with PowerhungryPerformance and just got it last week. I will say that they came very highly (as do some others) and so far I am very happy with the results, very nice power increases and shift points.

I personally went with a 6 position chip with: stock, 25hp for towing over 12,500lbs, 60hp for towing up to 10,000lbs, 80hp economy tune, 100hp performance tune and an anti-theft tune which disables the starting of the truck.
Now even though its new Ive spent 95% + of the time in 80hp economy setting, and really will only change it if towing heavy, troubleshooting in the stock setting and the anti theft mode.

I think Ive said enough.... lol

 

Unfortunately, most here have only used one brand of chip. Of those who have tried more than one brand, I have not read one single passionate endorsement of PHP over DP or visa-versa. I have collected a lot of information on both tuners and the programmers that make the tunes and I can say they are both very dedicated to making the ultimate program and to learn all they can.

Now... a quick tutorial on "canned" chips: Some geek in a cubicle must have written a program and the manufacturer is all about packaging volume marketing. You buy it, you install it, you live with it.

The "Custom" chips like PHP and DP are a moving target. They do live tuning and experiment all the time, plus they get feedback from many of their customers. They are constantly seeking out that next "magic trick" to make the engine do what you want it to do, without hurting it and actually extending the life of the powertrain and drivetrain.

Here is one piece of advice you will get in a strong chorus: NO CANNED CHIPS! There are many here that spend hours caressing their trucks on a weekend (by way of installing parts or conducting repairs/mods) and the thought of a "one size fits all" brain transplant on their truck brings a shudder. By excluding the Superchips, Supertuners, and Bully Dogs of the world, your list thins waaaay down.

Show of hands, everyone! I know many have your tuners in the sigs, but your knowledge of good custom tuners would be helpful. I'll start.

I love my DP and I've heard great things about PHP and Tony Wildman, plus a couple others that escape my memory before coffee.

I have only had DP, and the customer service is the definition of good customer support. They have even gone above and beyond as far as I'm concerened, because I am one **** SOB and they just keep helping with a smile in their voice. I checked out their website before I made my purchase and I stumbled onto their knowledge base [LINK]. Every question I could imagine was answered there, and they have all the installation/operation instructions (with pictures). They also have the instructions on how to collect the information they need to send me the correct tunes for my truck. How much support did you get from your chip maker, in comparison to what is in that link I gave you? DP supplies more info up front than most companies do, even after they get your money. I already mentioned the F6 - that ain't comin' back out. My wife absolutely loves going on long hauls in "Stinky", the wonder truck. This is something that has developed since I chipped and modded. So... there's an endorsement from someone who knows nothing of the technical side of the truck - she just likes the way Stinky behaves.