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I hate to go down the curvy guessing game road without listening to the engine but I would replace coil and spark plug wires in this case.
Wires will fail under load at high rpm.
Good luck.
I will take a video of it tomorrow but in the mean time i just noticed that the coil says toyota on it? I didnt even know you could do that, and am not to pleased, so am foresure going to pick up a coil and plug wires. but check back for video around 10ish.
Jumping in here, I see you checked hoses, and replaced them. On the back side of carb or spacer plate if you use one is a big vacuum port usually capped off unless you use it for brake booster vacuum. (the 78 might have used it) Alot of time they dry rot like hoses and collapse. Or the vacuum port you have capped with bolt in hose can cause problems. It shows like a vacuum leak, unless the carb is bad or has dead spot in it. Keep posting with any info you can think of, it may seem a headache now but after all is said and done it will be something simple.
Jumping in here, I see you checked hoses, and replaced them. On the back side of carb or spacer plate if you use one is a big vacuum port usually capped off unless you use it for brake booster vacuum. (the 78 might have used it) Alot of time they dry rot like hoses and collapse. Or the vacuum port you have capped with bolt in hose can cause problems. It shows like a vacuum leak, unless the carb is bad or has dead spot in it. Keep posting with any info you can think of, it may seem a headache now but after all is said and done it will be something simple.
. I just remembered before I did the swap my noisy *** neighbor came over and thought that my tIming was off and I turned around for a second and he was twisting the distributor back and forth, so I played with that today and I think I almost have it, god I hate that guy, he thinks he's gods gift to all motors wile it takes him an hour to start his mini bike for his kid.
I'm leaning towards a worn out distributor or cracked or wet distributor cap.
"Crackling" at higher rpms can indicate spark jumping between terminals.
Another possibility is that the timing had been so retarded that it just won't run when the vacuum advance kicks in. Try unhooking and plugging the vacuum line to the distributor. If it runs better then this may be the case.
If you have eletronic ignition it will do this. As the advance moves, it pulls on the wiring, if there is a break in the wiring, it will bog the engine. When the advance returns to original position, the wire reconncts and lets the engine run. I have never see this happen with standard points but it could, more likel by grounding as it advances
If not that distributor advance, I would check for vacume leaks by spraying starting fluid at all connections. It will rev higher when you spray the leak.
Good luck
Dennis
I just found a couple post in another forum that described this very thing with a broken wire.
I had a breaker plate pivot break and when the advance come in it pulled the whole thing sideways closing the points killing the motor. Pull the cap and apply vacuum to the advance while watching things move. It should rotate around the dist shaft not move sideways.
Thanks for all the help I will try all those things but at the hospital just had a baby boy today at 7 am I will post a pic later but I stopped by for a sec and there was a puddle of ATF under it maybe like 20 drops or so give or take is that because I tightened the converter to the flywheel to tight and the ATF isnt pumping correctly wile I was timing it?
Thanks for all the help I will try all those things but at the hospital just had a baby boy today at 7 am I will post a pic later but I stopped by for a sec and there was a puddle of ATF under it maybe like 20 drops or so give or take is that because I tightened the converter to the flywheel to tight and the ATF isnt pumping correctly wile I was timing it?
I just pissed myself off with that one buying a manual tomorrow everybody disregard that last question.....
I just pissed myself off with that one buying a manual tomorrow everybody disregard that last question.....
Tattyjoe, I'd like to suggest that you take a couple days off, take a deep breath, and enjoy that new son. I don't know anything about Costa Mesa, but there should be a member close by that can give you a hand or recommend a local shop that can help you.
No hurt intending but your lack of knowledge with mechanics doesn't make the C6 a bad tranny. Find someone to work on the truck, so you can enjoy it. I found a guy close by that is reasonable to help me with most of the little things that come up with my truck.
I don't think you really want to tackle installing a manual tranny in a auto truck. While it will bolt in nothing will fit.
Tattyjoe, I'd like to suggest that you take a couple days off, take a deep breath, and enjoy that new son. I don't know anything about Costa Mesa, but there should be a member close by that can give you a hand or recommend a local shop that can help you.
No hurt intending but your lack of knowledge with mechanics doesn't make the C6 a bad tranny. Find someone to work on the truck, so you can enjoy it. I found a guy close by that is reasonable to help me with most of the little things that come up with my truck.
I don't think you really want to tackle installing a manual tranny in a auto truck. While it will bolt in nothing will fit.
John
I hear ya but the job is done and if I could have taken to a shop I would have, but I think this is how you learn right, ya it might cost more in the long run but in the future if it ever happens again i will know what to do. But thanks for the advice btw it's still an auto I was taking about a truck manual book
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