That's the issue partly... It has only actually done it once... I have not been able to duplicate, much less consistently enough to trial and error guess... It may never do it again, or may leave me stranded or short out... I like tracking down problems too, but with all the parts under $50 total, that's less than a wrecker to get home if I gamble and lose...

 

So... The truck started doing it more, but ALWAYS at times I couldn't work on it so I was forced to not diagnose the issue and just bump the starter (didn't like that but no real alternative when your late and can't get sweaty in 100 degree heat.)

Then it finally did it as I got home. I went to see if it was the solenoid. I was trying to think of what exactly to do and just touched the wrench to the positive terminal and it stopped... So I thought I found the problem...

Swapped in new one, now... Nothing. Gauges and other ignition on circuits work but no starter.

I bought a NOS solenoid so I didn't have to buy china crap... How can I use test light to verify it is/ is not solenoid? I think that test light to negative, should light upon key in start position, but how about the two boot contacts? (to be honest I dont even know what the two booted contacts on the front go to).

Ideas?

 

Check to be sure you put the two small wires back on the right two pins on the solenoid. One comes from the ignition swithc and causes the solenoid to close contacts and run the starter. The other feeds full 12V to the coil while the starter is running.

 

If you look very close at the solenoid below the two small thread contacts you'll should see a small (I)= Ign. coil & (S)=starter if you have these on wrong it can damage the solenoid. So be careful putting these on. If unsure which is which look at coil + wire color strip on it, that's the same colored wire that goes on the (I) terminal of the solenoid..orich

 

Ok... Well it's wired right. I put the old one back on again just to double check wiring. Must be a bad switch...

 

Did you figure out what the problem was? It looks like I'm Starting to have the same issue.

 

First time I had this problem it was the starer relay. Last week truck did it again after 3 months of having starter relay problem. 2 days ago solenoid on the starter went out. My guess is the starter solenoid, seens to be most common cause. How old is your starter? Is the starter hot after starting or after problem occurs.

 

No telling about the starter. I'm not having a problem with it starting/cranking. Just turning off/stop cranking.

I just replaced the Solenoid, Ignition switch w/ new pigtail, all the grounds and positive cables (to the solenoid and to the starter). I've posted a thread. I just saw this and it sounded like my problem and I thought I would see if someone found a solution.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ing-issue.html

 

I just installed a second new starter solenoid and I haven't had the problem since. The first replacement I bought must have just been defective.

 

Looks like I'll be taking it back.

 

But, the first replacement I bought DID NOT work at all... The switch was totally defective, making it easy to diagnose (thankfully). After replacing it again, I have had no further problems, but I cannot guarantee that even my problem is fixed, I just got the truck back up last week. It appears to be fixed, and it is not an expensive replacement, so I suggest that is where I would start, but keep looking for possible issues.

 

I have been having the same problem of the truck not turning of with the key. It was worked fine for years and now it's acting up. I replaced the starter switch and the solenoid but it still has the same problem. Any Ideas?

 

The engine is supposed to shut off because the voltage to the coil gets shut off. This means that the coil can't dump any voltage through the distributor, so it can't fire a spark plug.

If the engine won't shut off, it's because something else is providing voltage to the coil. Obvious cuplrits are the ignition switch & the solenoid; as mentioned previously in this thread, it might be the VR (doesn't seem likely to me, but I haven't really thought about it). Non-obvious issue would be a wire-wire short or shorting across the contacts of a connector due to corrosion.

Let's get some background info here. What engine is this, what year, etc.?

 

Something similar on my 250. When I bought it, PO showed me where he had installed a toggle switch below the ign switch. In order to start the truck, I have to "turn on" this toggle,then turn the ign switch and to stop the engine I have to "turn off" said switch and Ign switch....sounds like I may need a new VR as well.

 

That's certainly one approach to handling the problem.

The "Run/Kill" switch would probably be installed on the wire from the switch connector to the coil's field.

Sincethat wire is probably where the fault is, the better approach would have been to trace that wire back to the fault, then fix the fault.

So let's get the background info here too. What engine and what year, etc.?