Well on the way to shop for more truck crap, stopped in at Walmart just to price general stuff because I don't care who sells me my motor oil since I don't buy house brand. I also needed some big tub to put my truck crap in to carry to the apt.

Anyway, park, set brake, turn key off, and nothing... Turn it all the way over to accessories, truck still running. Turn it back to center, still running. Turn it back to "on" then repeat going back and forth a few times with no result. Finally, bump the starter again, then turn to off, shuts her down.

Didn't do it on return trip.

My gut is nervous now not replacing the switch for risk of short, being stranded, battery drain, or some other issue, but before I do that any ideas? I really wanted to wait for any of that work until I could totally disassemble the dash and work the wiring slow, and I could afford to rekeying the door/ignition at once since the door lock on passenger side sticks. How urgent is this?

 

Depending on what caused it, it could leave you stranded when you don't wanna be stranded.

Something shorted the ignition system (effectively bypassing the key switch).

I'd get out the wiring diagram and follow the schematic, comparing it to the "real world" wiring. Somewhere, you're probably going to find crispy insulation, burn marks, etc. Check the appropriate wire connectors for indications of a fault.

If you follow out all of the wiring and don't find any indication of a fault, pull the ignition switch and try to test out it's different operations with an ohmmeter. In addition to the expected connections the switch is supposed to make, look for other connections (that it isn't supposed to make).

If your door locks stick, spray a little lube into the key hole.

 

What I would give for a garage that I could casually work on the truck... I am tired of having to rush my work to put stuff together living at an apt complex.

 

Well, I've got a garage, but it's so full of stuff that I can't put a car in there to work on it

 

It sounds like your starter selenoid is sticking keeping the 12 volt jumper wire to the coil hot all the time. If you're running points in the dist, thats not good, it will fry them.

 

Ok, so my possible culprits are:
1) shorted wire - cheapest but most time consuming to find
2) ignition switch - probably most expensive
3) starter solenoid - easiest and relatively inexpensive

Now just to make sure, solenoid is really just a bolt on and correctly swap out all the wired leads right... If so, I may just go ahead and do it because the solenoid and other under hood components like voltage regulator were on my radar even before this just from overall appearance. I still will try to check the switch and look for a shorted wire though...

 

I had that same exact problem with my 69' and for the life of me I can't remember how I got it to stop doing that. I think it had something to do with the starter solenoid, coil, and voltage regulator. If I can remember before you find the answer I will reply.

 

I would change out the starter selenoid. I have had this happen twice in the 20 years I have had my truck. Both times that was what went bad.

 

Bought both... Just need time to install...

 

Keep the receipt. I bought a selenoid and it only lasted a week before it went out. Went back and got another one still working.

 

Mine starter relay is about 4 months for the last month sometimes it would stick closed, happen about 3 times. In the last couple of weeks it has gotten worst. Get out of the truck and bang it with a wrench works fine. Lost my reciept so I guess have to buy a new one. Won't be another one from advance. Think I will try napa this time and be sure to keep the reciept this time. Stupid chinese crap.

 

I realize throwing parts at a truck is the best of a lot of peoples diagnostic capabilities but I like to know what's wrong and know it's fixed if I buy a new part. first off if it's the solenoid (doubt it) you could just disconnect the small wire(s) and see if it stops. Also you could take the switch loose and have it out where you can unplug it to kill the engine. As mentioned, who knows what kind of rat nest a 50 year old system will have, or if it has survived modification this long.

 

A friend of mine took a 69 truck to a local ford dealership years ago to figure out the same problem. Turns out it was the voltage regulator. I said no way! But he said that they said when the voltage regular when "locked" in the closed position allows the voltage to travel back up the stream, and hense through the coil if it is not switched off. So when you start the truck, the contacts make contact...... when key is off, the contacts should open, but if they don't open the truck will keep running. They put a new one on and the problem went away. I never would have thought it was the voltage regulator.

 

Hmm never heard of that happening, but, I never stop learning new stuff everyday.
I've always seen or had the battery beiing drain down after motor shuts off while the point stick closed on the reg. But a few wackes with a lager screw driver handle popped them open. The Amp meter would show decharge when stuck closed as, I remember way back in the late 70's or early 80's when changed over to the newer transistor ones..
orich

 

That's great to know. I suppose it only happens if you have the old non-electronic regulator, but there again, just try unplugging it to see if the engine quits.