Hello. I have a 1994 ford 300 6. Well about 2 years ago i was hauling a 14 ft trailer with three loads of crush and run gravel. Well i started home and come up to a 6 percent grade. I got half way up and it started sparked knocking really bad. Then i lost power like i was in first with it to the floor and doing 10 mph. Then the truck started over heating and i almost to the top figuring that i could make it. Well i did but the side of the radatior off. i got that fix and every since its sparked knoc that i cant get rid of it. I've tried the seam foam in the tank and and pour it through the intake and tranny fluid.Also tried every brand of fluid injector cleaner and every brand of gas from 87 to 93 with and with out ethanol octang booster. And i've tried adjusting the timing at which i lost on. tHE TIMING plate was the v and teeth before and after. do i start from the v and go to 10 deg and does the teeth by 2's. and when i plug the spout connertor the timing maker goes almost to the bottom way off from where i timed it to. i'm lost. is the sparkknock is something i have to get over or something i can fix my self cheat please let me know if there is another trick. thanks

 

The ignition module controls the timing advance, take it and have it tested. If that checks out, then pull the #1 cylinder up to TDC on the compression stroke and check where the rotor is in relation to the cap. It sounds like a bad module to me, but it could be your timing gears slipped, or even a bad connection on the ignition module. It could even be lack of oil pressure.

 

The oil gave in the dash reads normal. But it don't ever move unless the keys are off. And I know how the gates are on these older trucks too. As far as the igntion mod. Do u just take it off and take it to the part and they check it?

 

also i for got to ask. when i check the oil press do i just stick a after market oil gage in? and what would be the normal presser

 

I would suspect a blown head-gasket or cracked head. See my thread on this. Don't be like me and play with fire or you will get burned.

 

It runs to good for it to be something like that. I don't have any coolant lose. Or have any coolant in the oil.

 

Has the check engine light ever come on? Have you checked for stored codes?

 

The check engine light hasn't been coming on. Everytime I've went some where for them to check for stored codes tell me they won't find anything if the light ain't on

 

It's a '94, it's OBD-I, so there could be stored codes with no CEL. Get a HAYNES manual and run the codes yourself. It's pretty easy to do.

 

They are lying to you, likely because they don't know how to use an OBD I reader.

Go to a different place and have your codes read, I would guess the knock sensor is involved here.

Here is how to pull codes yourself by counting flashing lights:

Fuel Injection Technical Library » How To Run a Self-Test

 

Thanks for the link. Ill give this a try and post something in a day or too.

 

i still hadn't check the codes yet. i forgot to mention something until it done it today. on a good hot day and i shut my truck off for 10-15 min and go to start it again it hesatates like it will be only hitting on three cyilders and have no power at all until you drive it for a mile or so.

 

When was the last time the fuel filter was changed?

 

few months ago. it only does this went its hot around 90 or so.

 

I have found this situation to occur on three different 300/4.9L engines and believe it is a function of heat soak due to the intake being positioned directly over the exhaust.

All three of mine were carbureted and yours is FI, but Ford did have a fan to cool that area on some FI 4.9L engines [I'm not certain of which years], so they must have been aware of this happening.