replacing rear end yolk
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Central Wisconsin
replacing rear end yolk
So a little backstory, i ripped the u joint off the rear end of my truck backing into my driveway a week ago and finally got around to fixing it. I crawl under and find that one of the bolts is sheared off in the yolk still. I was going to drill it out but upon doing so, a big chunk of the yolk flew off so im pretty well out of options here.
So heres my question. If i remove the nut holding the yolk in place, will it affect the placement of the pinion and mess up my gearing?
So heres my question. If i remove the nut holding the yolk in place, will it affect the placement of the pinion and mess up my gearing?
Senior User
Joined: May 2010
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From: BC Cana'duh
You'll have to find the torque spec for the rear that you have.As long as you retorque the new yoke you should be fine.DO NOT overtorque it.Over torque it and you change the contact pattern between the ring and pinion.I replaced a yoke on a nine inch for one with a more common ujoint cross size and I've had no problems since(about 15000 miles ago).
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Central Wisconsin
You'll have to find the torque spec for the rear that you have.As long as you retorque the new yoke you should be fine.DO NOT overtorque it.Over torque it and you change the contact pattern between the ring and pinion.I replaced a yoke on a nine inch for one with a more common ujoint cross size and I've had no problems since(about 15000 miles ago).
Its an 89 sterling 10.25 if anyone knows the spec for that
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2011
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https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post8601255
You need to get yourself an inch-pound torque wrench to measure the pre-tension. I am about to go through this next weekend, so I'll let you know how it goes.
You need to get yourself an inch-pound torque wrench to measure the pre-tension. I am about to go through this next weekend, so I'll let you know how it goes.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Kentucky
The correct way to do this job is to also replace the crush collar then start from scratch with the pinion preload, which is measured with the axles removed.
The cheap and dirty method is to mark the pinion nut, remove it, remove the old yoke, install the new yoke, reinstall the pinion nut then tighten it back down to the mark you made previously.
I have done it both ways over the years with success over the long term using either methodology. Your mileage may vary.
The cheap and dirty method is to mark the pinion nut, remove it, remove the old yoke, install the new yoke, reinstall the pinion nut then tighten it back down to the mark you made previously.
I have done it both ways over the years with success over the long term using either methodology. Your mileage may vary.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Central Wisconsin
Well if the dirty method works, im all for it. Worse case scenario, i replace this rear end with the one from my parts truck and swap back to 4.11 gears. Lol
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2011
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Here are some videos that helped me understand the methods used. Maybe they'll give you a better idea of what's involved.
Dana 44 pinion preload - YouTube
Setting pinion bearing preload on the Ford 8.8" axle - YouTube
How To Install Replace Rear Axle Differential Pinion Seal 1AAuto.com - YouTube
There's always the right way and the cheap way
I'm with you... if it works then go with it.
Dana 44 pinion preload - YouTube
Setting pinion bearing preload on the Ford 8.8" axle - YouTube
How To Install Replace Rear Axle Differential Pinion Seal 1AAuto.com - YouTube
There's always the right way and the cheap way
I'm with you... if it works then go with it.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Concord, NC
Measure the pre-load (in inch pounds of torque using a dial or beam-type torque wrench) by spinning the pinion with the torque wrench before taking anything apart (leave the axles in place too) and duplicate the torque reading with a new crush collar, new yoke, and new nut when you put it back together.
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