OP, why 3" intakes on a 2 3/8" stock turbo? Waste of time the way I understand it. Please correct me if I'm wrong!!

 

I was talking about cutting the cylinder off. As far as tricks on that one bolt, well...

I used a 1/4" drive 6pt socket and knuckle (swivel socket is better), 1/4" extension, adaptor to 3/8, 3/8 extension, adaptor to 1/2, then 1/2" ratchet to break it loose. You might not need all that, but you get the idea...

 

Well I'm looking for flow. 7.3's are limited by head flow, this is a big debate between some, but flow numbers and volume calcs don't lie. Just figured that down the road some day I might be putting a bigger turbo on and want to have this setup for it. Its not much more work, but I thinks its worth it. I just can't see it hurting anything except my wallet...

Sort of like the 3.5 or 4" or 5" exhaust... what is better and why, and which is overkill...

Thanks for the heads up. I will be ordering a new pedestal from clay and therefore I can go ahead and cut the cylinder clean off before even messing with the bolt... correct?

 

I don't think you can cut the cylinder off with the pedestal in the truck. I did it with the ped on the bench and it was still a chore to do it right. If you can do it with it in the truck, more power to you, but I doubt it will be possible. The pedestal bolts are able to be gotten to with the engine in the truck, you just have to exercise some ninja wrenching...

The other tool I have heard that people will use for turbo removal is a 15mm swivel socket and a 10mm box end wrench that has the open end cut off to make it a "stubby" wrench. There just isn't much room back there to work that all.

 

How are you going to connect the 3" to the 2 3/8" spyder?

 

I bought a 99+ spyder. Cut the turbo flange off and essentially only have a single 3 inch y pipe left. Sort of like those guys who do the H2E conversions on these trucks. I then take the stock y pipe and cut off all but the turbo flange, then weld to a 2" 90 that tapers into a 3 inch for the rest of the piping.

The rest of my IC piping is 3 ". It is the same idea as making my own 3 inch y but I wanted to utilize the 99+ y pipe that I got off ebay for 20 bucks.... saves me time and money on fabbing and I can utilize some of the plug ins on the y for my H2O injection and boost guage.

Somwhat like this..... you can see how it has been seperated and a different neck coming off the turbo will be used.

http://i782photobucket.com/albums/yy...0109-00051.jpg

 

I gotta now, sounds good.

 

Well I ordered everything from clay except the EBPV housing which I will just plug. This install won't happen in the next two weekends, but the one after that I'd really like to get this all finished up. Finally ordered my other two gauges too.

So when I finish this little project I will have my 6.0 IC hooked up, rebuilt turbo, ebpv delete, new pedestal, My boost gauge hooked up, and a second pyro... sounds easy enough but I have a feeling it will be a full two days in the shop if not more.

Then the easy project of water injection.


Hopefully that will be it till the fall when I can put the t500 and stage 1.5's in...

 

Well my auto meters came in yesterday. Thanks clay! Hope the rest shows soon. Pulling the turbo tonight and hope to rebuild it all tomorrow and reinstall. Much needed break from my oil issue.

 

Good God guys is there some trick to the driver side rear pedestal bolt? I can not even find it... Its the only thing that I have left to take out ( passenger side is already loose) and I seriously can not even find the damn thing. Where the hell is an how do you get to it!

 

It's under that damn ebpv round pos on the pedestal. It is a real pain. I used a combination of 1/4 inch drive 6pt socket with a swivel, then extensions and adaptors up to 1/2" to break it loose. Good luck.

 

That did it was a matter of just finding the thing. Got a picture of a cracked pedestal. Runs right through the center of it. I never noticed to grinding marks on it but this looks like another attempted butchered fix by the original owner.


Now the passenger side bolt won't remove since its bottoming upwards on the pipes

 

Thanks again 427.... Little finagling and age came out. Looks like it was leaking in the back too!

 

*11. Assemble this contraption:

1/4" drive 10 mm socket

1/4" drive flex joint

1/4" to 3/8" adapter

3/8" wobble

3/8" extension — about 8" (I used two, a 3 & a 5, that gave me lots of options getting to hard places)

 

Turbo is out and all torn apart. Just waiting on another box to show in the mail so I can rebuild it. Put in the two new gauges and 3 pod pillar. Quite surprised it did not come with the length that run above the door.

Driver side plenum is loose. Taking a break before I go attempt the bolt below the HPOP... thing wont budge.


My question for you all is it looks like I will need to remove the two lines that go into the head to be able to pull the plenums out. How do I go about this...there are fittings on either end I have not seen before and almost look like quick disconnects but I have no idea if they are. I do not want to screw them up since I do not know the proper way to disconnect them. Any one have a link or advice on how to pop these loose.

Do I need a tool? Really getting sick of ordering stuff