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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

Intake Plenum Removal.

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Old Jun 18, 2012 | 07:18 PM
  #16  
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I don't want to discourage you from buying from Clay, but if you're so inclined there is a nearly free way of getting rid of the EBPV as well. Basically you just grind the rivets off to separate the butterfly from the shaft, then pound out the rivets. The shaft will slip right out of the housing then you can plug the hole in the bottom of the housing with a 1/2 freeze plug. I think the whole thing costs about $.50. If you want to go the extra mile and get rid of the cylinder on the pedestal you can do so too, you just have to get the oil passages welded shut (the pedestal is aluminum). I think I did the whole thing for around $20 including the welding, the o-rings and the freeze plug. Some guys also just cut off the shaft of the EBPV to keep it from hitting anything. There is a writeup around here somewhere...
 
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Old Jun 18, 2012 | 07:55 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Riffraff Performance
Thanks clay I will be ordering everything through you... I'm still chewing on what to do on the pedestal and what not... not in a super big rush and I need this thing running for sure for this next race weekend and don't want to run into any hiccups this weekend and be SOL for towing.

Funny how installing an intercooler went from just an intercooler, to water injection, to 3 inch plenums, to a turbo rebuild, on to a pedestal, and who knows whats next...i gotta draw the line somewhere

Originally Posted by DIYMechanic
I don't want to discourage you from buying from Clay, but if you're so inclined there is a nearly free way of getting rid of the EBPV as well. Basically you just grind the rivets off to separate the butterfly from the shaft, then pound out the rivets. The shaft will slip right out of the housing then you can plug the hole in the bottom of the housing with a 1/2 freeze plug. I think the whole thing costs about $.50. If you want to go the extra mile and get rid of the cylinder on the pedestal you can do so too, you just have to get the oil passages welded shut (the pedestal is aluminum). I think I did the whole thing for around $20 including the welding, the o-rings and the freeze plug. Some guys also just cut off the shaft of the EBPV to keep it from hitting anything. There is a writeup around here somewhere...
No I agree I'm having a hard time dropping the money for that but I want to do things right.... I am a welder myself but welding cast aluminum is not easy...I can tig weld at a pharmaseutical grade quality but throw any cast material at me and I have major issues...

My biggest fear is I spend all weekend doing this an a thousand miles down the road I'm weeping oil out of the passages and end up tearing it apart. I hate oil leaks and have the motor finally drip free since I bought it.

I'm knocking clays parts at all but I found this on Ebay and it saves a few bucks...

94 95 96 97 POWERSTROKE 7.3 TURBO PEDESTAL TURBOCHARGER BLANK NO EBPV W.GASKETS | eBay

FYI I will be ordering all my stuff from clay. I don't like cutting corners but if I can save money without ditching quality I will do it here and there...
 
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Old Jun 18, 2012 | 07:57 PM
  #18  
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From: Ft Scott
Gutting the Exhaust Back Pressure Valve - 1994-1997 Power Stroke FAQ
 
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Old Jun 18, 2012 | 08:00 PM
  #19  
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Well that looks easy as all get out but what about the oil passages?
 
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Old Jun 18, 2012 | 08:07 PM
  #20  
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Cut and weld, or some guys will just leave the cylinder in place, remove the rod and plug the hole.

Personally I was a little concerned about the pedestal leaking but so far I have ad no issues. It is nice having one less place to worry about having an oil leak. Not that it has helped me all that much, my truck still drips... I'm in the process of trying to track that down now, but it appears to me to be dripping from the silicone seal between the pan and the block. I must have gotten the silicone too thin in one spot or something.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2012 | 08:17 PM
  #21  
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Is there any reason why not to leave the cylinder in place? Might just do that instead...
 
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Old Jun 18, 2012 | 08:51 PM
  #22  
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Having the cylinder out makes the possibility of the leak non existent. That and it makes a couple of the pedestal bolts easier to get to. Other than that, I would just gut the housing and let it breathe. I will tell you for sure that the turbo breathing into a 3" DP and a 4.5" straight pipe really does scream. You can hear the whistle more than you hear anything else. You hear it as soon as the engine fires, and you hear it spin down after you shut the key off. I have to believe it really makes thing breathe a lot better. Some claim a 10% reduction in restriction by the EBPV delete. I don't know how much performance you gain, but it sure does sound good!
 
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Old Jun 18, 2012 | 08:51 PM
  #23  
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By the time you get that one bolt out you WILL want to remove the cylinder...just wait...
 
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Old Jun 18, 2012 | 08:52 PM
  #24  
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Hahaha, Darin has done this before!! If you're wanting to do it once and be done without worrying about the welding, use the freeze plug and buy the delete Ped from Riffraff. After you get that bolt out you'll be ready to spend the $$!
 
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Old Jun 18, 2012 | 09:03 PM
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Yep, mine got cut off the only time I removed the turbo. I wasn't going to fight that bolt anymore.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2012 | 09:10 PM
  #26  
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Ok well I figure I'll just buy the pedestal and plug the EBPV stem. If not I might just grab the entire thing off ebay. I just hope its quality stuff! Yeah it saves 60 bucks but at the same time, I only like doing things once!

Like I said do you guys have any tricks to getting those tuff to get out bolts! Trick or tools? You say you cut it off, are you talking about the cylinder?
 
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Old Jun 18, 2012 | 09:25 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by 427 fordman
Yep, mine got cut off the only time I removed the turbo. I wasn't going to fight that bolt anymore.
Are you guys talking about the rear pedestal bolt?
 
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Old Jun 18, 2012 | 09:31 PM
  #28  
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The one on ebay shows the pedestal WITH the cylinder.

 
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Old Jun 18, 2012 | 09:31 PM
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Ya,the one under/beside that frickin cylinder
 
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Old Jun 18, 2012 | 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 427 fordman
Ya,the one under/beside that frickin cylinder
I don't know how you get it out from up top. Every time I've removed the turbo, it's been for up pipe work, and every time I've worked on the up pipes, I've had the trans out. Those two back pedestal bolts are A LOT easier to get to with the trans out and they were still a PIA! I can't imagine doing it from up top!
 
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